Tagelmust
A Tagelmust ( Tamascheq , people of the veil , also known as Cheich or Berber : Cheche or éghéwed ) is an indigo-dyed cotton or linen item of clothing that combines the turban with a (face) veil . The blue or black color ( eshesh ) textile used to consist of many pieces of fabric sewn together by hand to form a long length of fabric, the so-called aleshu or alasho . It is worn by Tuareg men in different states of West Africa and can be up to 15 m long. The wrapping technique, the use of a turban ribbon and the shape of the amulet containers sometimes attached to it vary from region to region.
Manufacturing
In the past, the Tagelmust was mostly colored without water using crushed indigo because there was a regular lack of water. Repeated dyeing and subsequent treatment with tree resin gave it its deep blue color. Ultimately, it was beaten with a mallet until a lacquer-like, shiny consistency formed on the surface. Typical of indigo-dyed fabrics is that the blue pigment rubs off on the skin. This led to the Tuareg being commonly referred to as the “blue men of the desert”.
Functions
The Tagelmust finds practical use in the Sahara because it not only provides head protection against sun and sand, but also prevents the inhalation of sand ( especially during sandstorms ) due to its veil . It is believed that indigo supports its wearer health and is considered an ideal of beauty; It is said that skin and wealth are promoted. Long trousers are always worn for daytime wear, as it is assumed that the two items of clothing are brothers (according to the common explanation of the Tuareg).
The Tagelmust is wrapped around the head like a turban after it has been placed around the lower half of the face. The longer, the more festive it is. But the social standing can also be read off the length; the more respectable a personality, the longer the length of the fabric. Culturally, the Tagelmust occasionally appears in other ethnic groups, such as the Hausa or the Songhai . Nowadays, colors other than indigo keep coming into play. Young Tuareg of the new Ishumar generation also wear bright colors such as yellow, red, turquoise, pink, orange and green.
The Tagelmust is given to those who enter the adult world between the ages of 15 and 17. It is awarded by the Targi's father. The aim of the ritual is to remove the impurity from the young man. He is now allowed to pray , perform ritual ablutions and go to the Koran school. In the closest family circle the turban is taken off, only lifted from below for eating. It is not washed and is often worn until it falls apart.
Among the Tuareg men who wear the Tagelmust are referred to as Kel Tagelmust ("veil bearers"). The Tagelmust is worn exclusively by adult men. Tuareg men often show shame when they have to show their mouth or nose to strangers. If a Tagelmust is not available, they hide behind their hands.
literature
- Ines Kohl, Going “Off Road”: With Toyota, Chech and E-Guitar through a Saharian Borderland. in: Hans Peter Hahn, Georg Klute (Eds.): Cultures of Migration. African Perspectives from the series Contributions to Africa Research, Vol. 32, LIT-Verlag 2007, ISBN 978-3-8258-0668-2
- Edgar Sommer : Kel Tamashek - The Tuareg, Cargo Verlag, Schwülper 2006, ISBN 3-938693-05-3
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Tuareg by Dimitris Katakalaios (Archived in Culture section | Latest Approved Revision on: Thu. 07/03/2003)
- ↑ Chris Scott, The Sahara: Dry but never boring (2007)
- ^ Jenny Balfour-Paul, Indigo in the Arab World
- ↑ a b Edgar Sommer, Kel Tamashek, p. 55 (see lit.)