Reinforcement (tailoring)
A reinforcement also insert or outdated batting called, is in tailoring the misappropriated and often piqued additional reinforcement between upper material and lining to improve the substance is incorporated to durability, shape and wear properties. In knitting , reinforcement refers to the additional knitting of a particularly stable thread into knitted goods .
In the tailoring
The best-known example is the inlay made of horsehair , later also camel hair , in the front part of the jacket , which gives the men's jacket, and in the classic, fully lined tailor's suit also the women's jacket, shape and "stand".
A correct insert consists of several layers connected to one another by pricking out. First, depending on the type of fabric, there is a more or less stiff horsehair insert, in the chest area the much stronger plaque , which goes up to the lapel break , but in no case beyond. To protect the chest and lining from the rough plaque, a thin layer of felt is also pricked on high-quality clothing . Pricking and dressage roughly give the padding the desired body shape. The padding is tucked under the front part and, after the first try- on, connected to the fabric in the lapel area by pricking. In the area of the hem and edge, the padding is cut off exactly at the same edge and sewn using corner tape that is decorated on the outer fabric and padding. It takes up to six hours to process a padding in accordance with regulations, for a jacket by hand. A correct insert is the prerequisite for creating a so-called tailor's hand edge .
Nowadays (especially in the lower price ranges) a thin ironing insert , the so-called front fixation , often replaces the padding.
In knitting
The reinforcement of knitwear is done by additionally knitting a particularly tear-resistant and abrasion-resistant thread (mostly polyamide) into knitwear at the particularly stressed areas, for example on the heel and toe of hosiery . The technique for making two-layer knitwear is plating . Here, two different types of (quality plated) are processed at the same work station (called system) of the circular knitting machine for loop formation by underlaying or covering so that the plating thread comes on the outside and the base thread on the inside of all stitches. Both sides can get different properties through the choice of raw material (e.g. natural or chemical fibers).
Individual evidence
- ↑ Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon . 7th edition, Volume 2, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, keywords “reinforcement”, “plating”, “system”. ISBN 3-87150-518-8