Straight razor
Straight razor is the name given to a reusable knife blade used for shaving facial hair. They are also called open razors and cut throat razors, the latter particularly in the UK and Australia:[1][2] this is a slight misnomer, because it is difficult to cut a throat with a razor, especially one's own. A man is exceedingly unlikely to cut anything vital (like the trachea, carotid arteries, or jugular veins) while shaving himself. This is because shaving is done with the blade almost flat against the skin; a deep incision requires the blade to be nearly perpendicular to the skin.
Although straight razors were once the principal method of manual shaving, they have been largely overshadowed by double-edge or cartridge razors and disposable blades razors, and by electric razors of various types.[3][2]
Straight razors require considerable skill to hone, strop, and use correctly.[4] The required skills were once a major portion of the curriculum in barber colleges.
History
Various forms of razors were used throughout history, which are different in appearance but similar in use to modern straight razors. The wealthy had servants to shave them or could frequent barbershops.[citation needed] Other people shaved themselves, although not necessarily daily. Some people never shaved. The custom of shaving every day among American soldiers is a 20th-century innovation.[5]
Straight razors were the most common form of shaving before the 20th century and remained that common in many countries until the 1950s.[3] Barbers were specially trained to give customers a thorough and quick shave, and a collection of straight razors ready for use was a common sight in most barbershops. Barbers still have them, but they use them less often.
In the 19th century, cuttlers in Sheffield, England and Solingen, Germany produced a variety of razors. A gentleman could purchase matched, numbered sets of two to seven razors, so that one's valet could sharpen the razors ahead of time, before shaving him each day. Such sets are also convenient for those who shave themselves, but less so.
Straight razors eventually fell out of fashion. Their first challenger was manufactured by King Gillette: a double-edged safety razor with replaceable blades. Gillette's idea was the use of the "loss leader" concept, in which the razors were sold at a loss, but the replacement blades earned a high margin and provided continuous sales. They provided a less effective shave,[citation needed] yet were immensely successful due to advertising campaigns and slogans denigrating the straight razor's effectiveness and calling into question its safety.
These new safety razors did not require any real instruction or tutelage to use.[4] It was extremely difficult to sharpen the blades, which were designed to be thrown away after one use and rusted quickly if not discarded. Thus they did not require any maintenance, merely continual replacement of blades. The safety razor also required a smaller initial investment, yet had (and have) a higher total cost over time. The quality straight razor and its superior shave were seen less and less frequently. As they became less popular, the demand for barbers providing straight razor shaves decreased.[3]
Around 1960, stainless steel blades became available, which could be used more than once, thus reducing the nuisance of daily replacement and sometimes reducing the annual cost. The first such blades were made by the Wilkinson firm, famous maker of ceremonial swords, in Sheffield. Soon, Gillette, Schick, and other manufacturers were making stainless-steel blades in a variety of styles.
These were followed by multiple-blade cartridges and disposable razors. For each type of replaceable blade, there is generally a disposable razor.
Some time in the 1930s, electric razors became available. These are available in a variety of styles and prices, which can rival the cost of a good straight razor, although the whole straight-razor shaving kit can exceed the cost of an expensive electric razor.
Construction
Straight razors consist of a semi or full hollow-ground blade sharpened on one edge. The blade can be made of either stainless steel, which is difficult to strop and hone, albeit resistant to rust, or high-carbon steel, which is much easier to hone, but stays sharp for less time, and will rust if neglected. At present, stainless-steel razors are easy to find but expensive; carbon-steel razors are nearly as expensive but quite difficult to find.
The blade rotates on a pin through its tang between two protective pieces called scales: when folded into the scales, the blade is protected from accidental damage, and the user is protected from accidental injury. Handle scales are made of various materials, including mother-of-pearl, celluloid, bone, plastic and wood. They were once made of ivory, but this has been discontinued, though fossil ivory is still sometimes used, and antique razors with ivory scales are occasionally found (it is illegal to kill elephants for their ivory, but it is legal to buy a razor made in 1850).
Blade types and their characteristics
The blade of the straight razor can be classified two ways: First according to the shape of the profile of the edge at the free end of the razor and second according to the type of grinding method used. The degree of curvature, and therefore hollowness, of the sides of the cross section of the razor blade depends on the grinding method.[2]
The side view of the free end of the blade is called the point.[6] Blades are, at first, categorised according to point type. There are three main types of point:[2]
- Square, spike or sharp point, so called because the vertical edge profile is straight and terminates at a very sharp point perpendicular to the cutting edge of the razor. This type of blade is used for precise shaving in small areas but, at the risk of pinching the skin, it requires some experience in handling.[2][7]
- French (or oblique) point. Its profile resembles a quarter circle, but with a sharper angled curve, and while it ends in a similarly sharp point as the square point it lacks the abrupt straight line edge profile. The difference between these two is mainly aesthetic.[2][7]
- Round point. As the name implies the edge profile is semicircular and therefore it lacks any sharp end points. As such it is a more forgiving blade than the other two types and, although lacking the pinpoint accuracy of the other two, it is recommended for relatively new users.[2] There are also secondary edge types that derive from a combination of the above such as half round point incorporating round edges joined by a linear segment.[7]
The second category refers to the type of grinding method used and, since it affects the curvature of the blade cross section, includes the following main types of blade:
- Flat or straight ground, indicating that the sides of the cross section are linear.[2][7]
- Hollow ground, indicating that the sides of the cross section are concave.[2]
The degree of hollowness and thus the cross sectional area (thickness) of the blade can vary. Higher degree of hollowness in the blade implies a thinner cross section and this affects the stability (bending or buckling properties) of the blade.[2][8] To stabilise the blade a ridge was created parallel to the cutting edge and the blade was sharpened in two areas; the area between the back of the blade and the ridge and the area between the ridge and the cutting edge.[8] These two have different curvatures and they are almost seamless in a well made razor.[8] The distance between the ridge and the back of the blade is inversely proportional to the hollowness of the blade and is described in fractional terms as, for example, 1/4 hollow, 1/2 hollow, or 1/1 (full hollow), with full hollow indicating that the stabilising ridge is very close to the midsection of the blade and the farthest from the cutting edge compared to the other grades.[8] This is considered the most expensive blade.[8]
There is a tradeoff between stability and long term blade sharpness. A full hollow ground (1/1) blade can keep a very sharp edge even after a great number of honing cycles because of its high degree of hollowness but it is more susceptible to torsional bending because it is thinner.[8] A partially hollow blade (1/2 or 1/4 for example) cannot sustain the same degree of sharpness for as long, because as the cutting edge erodes it can eventually reach the stabilising ridge faster, but it is more stable because it is less hollow.[8]
The combination of the types found in these two classification categories can lead to a wide variety of blade types such as round point hollow ground, French point flat ground etc.[2][7]
Method of use
To be most effective, a straight razor must be kept extremely sharp. The edge is delicate, and inexpert use may bend or fold over the razor's edge. To unfold and straighten the microscopic sharp edge, one must strop the blade on a leather occasionally.[9] The blade must also be sharpened periodically by honing with a razor hone. Strops prepared with pastes containing fine grit are also used for honing but are not recommended for the inexperienced user as they can easily rake off the edge.[citation needed] Some strops have a linen or canvas back embedded with a fine abrasive used to maintain a sharp edge before final polishing with the leather side. A face's worth of thick hair may require multiple stroppings for one shave, but a blade is usually honed only two or three times a year. Occasional regrinding by a professional may be required to restore a badly worn or damaged edge.
Experienced straight razor aficionados often advocate stropping after each shave and allowing the blade to recover its edge for several days before reuse.[9] Historically this necessitated a collection of several razors sometimes sold in a sets for a week's use.[9] Shaving soap in a cup is traditionally lathered and applied using a rotating in-and-out motion of a Shaving brush, usually made of boar or badger bristles, though modern barbers are usually required by law to use other methods.[citation needed] The shave is completed using as few strokes as possible, honing sparingly if at all. A second shave with another razor in an alternate direction against the beard yields an extremely close shave, at the risk of producing ingrown hairs. Rinsing with cold water constricts minor abrasions or cuts, followed by patting dry (not rubbing) and an astringent or aftershave lotion. More serious nicks can be attended with direct pressure for perhaps a minute with a styptic pencil. A light steady touch is most effective at providing a close shave, preserving the edge and avoiding cuts.
In the heyday of straight razor shaving, wealthy users maintained a weekly "rotation" of seven razors to reduce wear on any one piece.[9] Straight razors were often sold in special boxes of seven labeled for the days of the week. However, many users owned only one razor.[9]
Modern use
Straight razors are still manufactured. DOVO, of Solingen, Germany, and Thiers-Issard of France are two of the most well-known European manufacturers. Feather Safety Razor Co. Ltd. of Osaka, Japan makes a razor with the same form as a traditional straight, but featuring a disposable blade.
Modern straight razor users are known to favor them for a variety of reasons. Some (e.g. young fogeys) are attracted to the nostalgia of using old and traditional methods of shaving. It is a masculine ritual comparable to pipe smoking. Others profess an interest in reducing the waste of disposable blades. Still others agree that straight razors provide a superior shave through a sharper blade and greater control of the blade angle. They are also much easier to clean than modern multi-blade razors that tend to trap shaving debris between their tightly packed blades. Others simply like the good results and the satisfaction of maintaining the blade themselves. For all these reasons, devotees of the straight razor make for an active market.
Many barbers who provide straight-razor shaving now must use a version that employs a disposable blade system, as required by law in some areas. This eliminates the need for sharpening and provides greater assurance of good hygiene. (It is possible for a blade to pass infection if it cuts two customers in a row, but this is unlikely: a good barber rarely cuts a customer.) Still other jurisdictions ban the use of all straight razors and barbers use modern triple blade razors instead.
Razor collecting
There is also an active market for antique razors in many countries, especially those in Europe and North America.[citation needed] Some collectors use their antique razors for shaving, but many simply collect them as memorabilia.
Use as a weapon
The typical straight razor's extreme sharpness, portability, and ease of concealment has led to it being used as an illegal weapon. As a straight razor has a slashing action and not a stabbing one, it is often used to disfigure the victim of the assault, rather than inflict a life-threatening wound.[citation needed] Slitting the victim's face from the corner of the mouth to the ear is called a Chelsea smile, as this was said to be a method of punishment dispensed by criminal gangs in the Chelsea area of London. The prevalence of attacks involving knives in Glasgow (Glasgow's "knife culture"), has also led to the term Glasgow smile being adopted for the same injury. Here, the colloquial name for the weapon is a malky (local rhyming slang, Malky [Malcolm] Fraser = razor), thus by extension any edged weapon so used. Slitting the throat and then pulling the tongue out is called a "Sicilian Necktie" or "Colombian necktie". The "Jester's Smile" is the term used for when a straight razor is used to unhinge the jaw and then the throat is slit. As massive blood loss occurs from such wounds, these injuries can prove fatal. If they do not, a distinctive scar is formed[citation needed] Straight razors have featured in some films as both weapons and torture implements.
Stories circulate as to how gangster Al Capone got his nickname Scarface: attributing it to an irate barber, who allegedly cut him with a razor; another story says he fared poorly in a knife-fight.
In the book/film A Clockwork Orange, the main character Alex fights using a straight razor (referred to as his 'britvah').
In Quentin Tarantino's film Reservoir Dogs, Michael Madsen's character, Mr. Blonde slices off the ear (off-camera) of kidnapped LAPD Officer Marvin Nash in one of the film's most memorable scenes.
In the film The Matrix Reloaded, The Twins use straight razors as weapons.
In the film Dolemite, one of his enemies after shot begs for help. One of Dolemite's kung-fu trained prostitutes helps him by cutting his throat with a straight razor.
In the film Who Framed Roger Rabbit, Psycho the Weasel, one of the film's minor villains, utilized his cartoon straight razor as his weapon of choice, and held onto it quite tenaciously until his final scene in the movie.
It is also a weapon mostly used by fictional villain, Sweeney Todd
It is used as a primary weapon by the fictional character George Stark in The Dark Half'
Also in "Dressed to Kill" by an imposing blonde woman, in dark sunglasses who stalks her victims.
In both the Forest Kingdom and Nightside series by author Simon R. Green a recurring character is Razor Eddie, know by the title Punk God of the Straight Razor.
References
- ^ Collins Dictionary definition: 1 a person who cuts throats; murderer. 2 (Also called) cut-throat razor (Brit) a razor with a long blade that usually folds into the handle , (U.S. name) straight razor
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Dovo Solingen Meisterwerke:Today the market is dominated by electric shavers and simple wet shavers (Includes blade classification info)
- ^ a b c this type of razor first appeared in England in the 1700s, and remained the mainstay of men's razors until the twentieth century. and: As the use of straight razors went out of fashion, most barbershops chose not to offer the service anymore. and: By the mid-1900s, fewer and fewer people still used the traditional straight-edge razor. also: There are still a small number of companies that manufacture the straight-edge razor, and some men claim that this old-fashioned razor provides the best possible shave.
- ^ a b msnbc.msn.com Why do so many guys find this so hard to achieve? Because proper shaving has become a lost art. Shaving is one of those glorious male traditions that used to be passed down from father to son, but somewhere along the line, when shaving became more about cheap, disposable razors than a nice, precision-made metal tool in your hand, it became a brainless routine to rush through in the morning without even thinking about it.
- ^ STATUS REPORT ON SAFETY RAZOR BLADES: IF WWI had made American soldiers shave themselves, WWII taught them the importance of shaving everyday. Gillette sprang into action...
- ^ Dovo Solingen Meisterwerke (Masterworks): (Parts of a razor)
- ^ a b c d e Razor central (Point classification info)
- ^ a b c d e f g Knife center Razor Sharpening And Using Tips
- ^ a b c d e executive-shaving: The barber's better-off customers would have personal sets of seven cut throat razors, labelled 'Sunday' to 'Saturday'. and: you should nevertheless take into account that the razor must first "rest" after use. After the razor has been carefully rinsed and dried, it should not be used again for at least 24 - 48 hours and: Between six and fifteen shaves are possible without stropping in between.