fustian

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Barchent
(also: Parchend)
Barchent.jpg
binding Twill or atlas
Traditional material Half linen
Finishing Roughening
origin middle East
properties durable, warm
use Lining fabric, bed linen , foot cloths

Fustian (of Arab barrakan "fabric from camel hair" or Persian baranka "wool" of batteries also Parchend ; the term is found in several languages: Latin barracanus , Italian barracano , Spanish Barragan ) is a mixed fabric of cotton - shot on linen - chain that is smooth, roughened on one or both sides.

properties

The smooth bark has either a four-branched body like the croisé , and therefore two right sides (both right-hand bark), but is coarser and of a denser weave than the croisé, or it has a four-branched one-sided body (farfish, duckbill, ticking, duvet).

The Atlas Barchent is five - legged and shaped like an atlas . The rough bark is three-, four- or five-stringed, and so twilled that 2/3, 3/4 or 4/5 of the coarse and soft entry lie afloat on one side. This is either already on the chair or after bleaching by scratching with cardoons or fine iron wire scratching by hand or by means of a card wire raising machine roughened.

This gives the fancier a more or less long-fibered, downy or wool-like surface, which is also sheared like a cloth in the strong fabrics used for winter clothing (cotton molton, English moss); this rough bark is also used for oilcloth .

Schnürbarchent shows only entry on the right side, a canvas-like fabric with narrow, flat longitudinal ribs on the left; Piqué barchent appears quilted with cubic or other straight figures.

history

Since the 14th century, Barchent has been displacing linen more and more. Among the leading centers for fibril production on the European market were u. a. Ravensburg , Biberach , Regensburg , Ulm ("Ulmer Geld") and Augsburg .

The general Barchentweberei came from the end of the 19th century gradually to a standstill because of petticoats , lining and coating more easily knitted and woven cotton and woolen semi -finished products in use came. However, during the First World War , the fabric was still used as a foot cloth instead of socks by the German army and the German navy, as it cushioned the high boots well, was easy to wash and, as a cotton fabric, dried quickly. Barchent is rarely used today.

See also

The Barrakan, Barragan or Berkan is the wide dress that is often worn by men in the Mediterranean.

literature

  • Alois Kießling, Max Matthes: Textile specialist dictionary . 5th edition, Schiele & Schön, Berlin 1993, ISBN 3-7949-0546-6 .
  • Michael North (Ed.): German Economic History: A Millennium at a Glance , 2nd Edition, CH Beck, Munich 2005, ISBN 978-3-406-50266-8 , pp. 57-59, ( here online at books.google) .
  • Gerhard Strauss (Ed.): German Foreign Dictionary . Volume 3. de Gruyter, Berlin 1997, ISBN 3-11-015741-1 , p. 154f, ( here online at books.google).

Remarks

  1. ^ Handbook of Health Care on Board of Warships . Fischer, Jena 1914, pp. 827-828.