Capri pants

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The capri pants ( English Capri pants ) is a three-quarter length, tight-fitting, the hem slotted Damenhose . The length of the Capri trousers is characteristic: from below the knee to a maximum of the middle of the calf. The side slit allows the hem to be turned inside out.

origin

The German fashion designer Sonja de Lennart created 1945–1948 in her Capri Collection in addition to a Capri skirt, a Capri blouse, a Capri belt and a Capri hat, as well as the tight-fitting, three-quarter-length trousers with a short side, now known as Capri trousers Slot. The original capri pants had no pockets.

Just one year later, the German actress Mady Rahl wore the summery form of the capri pants as a model for Sonja de Lennart, followed in 1950 by the Austrian actress Erni Mangold for the winter model. The Capri pants were later copied by other designers, including Emilio Pucci , who opened his boutique in Capri in 1949 , but at that time strictly adhered to his famous "Black and White phase" (sports collections / ski clothing) and also strictly sold each of his creations without exception under his logo "Emilio". It was not until the late 1950s and early 1960s that Sonja de Lennart's capri trousers, made famous through the films with Audrey Hepburn , were sold in his boutique. Although the name “Capri Pants” was Sonja de Lennart's creation - her family had been traveling to Capri since the turn of the century - he couldn't help but sell them under her creation in his boutique. This early plagiarism led to Pucci being considered the inventor of the capri pants for a long time.

1950s fashion hits

Although - or precisely because - the capri pants seemed revolutionary at the time, they were an essential part of the fashion hits of the 1950s. It sparked non-stop debates about the decency of the wearers and the moral ideas of the young people. Today the capri pants are no longer provocative, but back then only the particularly courageous trendsetters dared to take them out on the street. Many mothers have not allowed their daughters to go out on the streets in capri pants. It was a fashion must-have in the 1950s while sunbathing on the beach.

  • Capri pants, front view

  • Capri pants, left

  • Capri pants, back view

  • Capri pants, right back

Famous porters

In 1952, the costume designer Edith Head also combined the Capri pants with other items of clothing from the de Lennart's Capri collection, e.g. B. the wide swinging skirt , the high-necked blouse and the wide belt, made by the three Italian sisters Fontana ( Sorelle Fontana ) for Audrey Hepburn for the film Roman Holiday . In 1953 Hubert de Givenchy had the capri pants tailored for Audrey Hepburn, which she wore in the film Sabrina (1954).

Also, Doris Day , Jane Russell and Marilyn Monroe , Kim Novak , Sophia Loren , Jackie Kennedy and Anita Ekberg loved these pants. It was even registered in the existentialist pubs of Saint-Germain-des-Près: "Young women liked each other in black turtlenecks, black, tight fisherman's trousers and flat sandals, straight long hair and black make-up eyes à la Juliette Gréco ", as Gundula Wolter reports.

Today's reception

Capri pants experienced their last big comeback in the summer of 2002, although nowadays the slit can usually be closed with strings, buttons or a zipper .

literature

  • John Peacock: The 1950s . (Fashion Sourcebooks). Thames & Hudson, 1997, ISBN 0-500-27931-4 , pp. 64 (black and white illustrations).

Web links

Wiktionary: Capri pants  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Sonja de Lennart website.
  2. ↑ Roland Müller: Internal and external transformations since 1939 . 1950s: new language, but hardly any new action. Switzerland ( muellerscience.com [accessed January 21, 2011] 2001–2011).
  3. ↑ Capri pants . In: The Brockhaus . FA Brockhaus, Mannheim 2007.
  4. ↑ Patricia Harris: Ancient Capri Still Casts Its Powerful Spell . In: The Boston Globe . June 29, 2008 ( boston.com [accessed March 19, 2011]).
  5. ^ Anne Stewart: Pucci, Pants & Parliament . In: Time . tape 82 , August 23, 1963 ( time.com [accessed February 22, 2011]).
  6. ^ Valerie Steele: Encyclopedia of clothing and fashion . tape 3 . Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005, ISBN 0-684-31397-9 (entry: Pucci, Emilio).
  7. ^ Ingrid Loschek : Emilio Pucci . To the Pucci revival. In: Handelsblatt . Gallery. 45 (March 3-4), March 3, 2000, pp. G06 ( (Paywall) [accessed January 21, 2011]).
  8. ↑ Gundula Wolter: Pants, female . Cultural history of women's pants. Jonas Verlag, 1994, ISBN 3-89445-176-9 , p. 270 .