Gundula Wolter

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Gundula Wolter (born February 4, 1951 in Frankfurt am Main ) is a German specialist in the history of fashion .

Life

Wolter studied art education and graphic design at the Kunsthochschule Kassel , textiles design at the Hochschule der Künste Berlin and art history at the Free University of Berlin . In 1993 she received her doctorate in art history at the Free University of Berlin with a doctoral thesis on the history of women's trousers. At the beginning of the 1990s, fashion and costume history was not yet the subject of serious research in German-speaking countries, which is why Wolter's doctoral thesis received a great deal of attention in specialist circles. The work was supervised by Werner Busch .

From 1994 to 2008 Wolter taught at universities and art colleges, including at the Institute for Textile Design / Didactics and the Cultural History of Textiles at the University of Dortmund . As a visiting professor for fashion history and fashion theory, she supervised the Vivienne Westwood fashion class at the Berlin University of the Arts from 1998 to 2006 . She then taught as a visiting professor at the Berlin-Weißensee School of Art . She has been working as a freelancer since 2008. Wolter lives and works in Berlin.

Wolter is a founding member of the Netzwerk Mode Textil association. The network is the central point of contact for researchers and creatives from German-speaking countries who are concerned with the cultural history of clothing , fashion and textiles . She has been on the board since 2008, and from 2010 to 2019 she was first chairperson and editor of the nmt yearbook and the intelligent connections series of conference proceedings .

Research interests

Wolter's research interests are European clothing history , the cultural history of trousers, clothing and gender, the language of clothing, bodies according to fashion, fashion in caricature , art and fashion, the fashion city of Berlin.

Scholarships

  • 1993: Scholarship from the Senate Department for Labor and Women, Funding Commission for Women's Research, Berlin, topic: Women in Pants
  • 2001–2002 research grant from the Gerda Henkel Foundation , topic: Fashion in Caricature or: The Alamodische Höllenfahrt

Writings / publications (selection)

  • Who how what? Self-expression through fashion has become a game of identities . In: S-Magazin (DER SPIEGEL) No. 4, New Codes, October 2018, opening text, p. 14 online .
  • The hat speaks . In: Jeanne Mammen. The observer. Retrospective 1910–1975. Edited by Thomas Köhler and Annelie Lütgens. Exhibition catalog Berlinische Galerie . State Museum for Modern Art, Photography and Architecture. Hirmer Verlag , Munich 2017, ISBN 978-3-7774-2908-3 , pp. 41-48.
  • Satirizing Seventeenth-Century Fashion: Edification and Entertainment . In: Johannes Pietsch / Anna Jolly (eds.): Netherlandish Fashion in the Seventeenth Century . Riggisbergerberichte 19, Abegg Foundation , Riggisberg 2012, ISBN 978-3-905014-45-7 , pp. 153-184.
  • Reclams Mode and Costume Dictionary by Ingrid Loschek , 6th, expanded and updated edition, edited by Gundula Wolter. Philipp Reclam jun. , Stuttgart 2011, ISBN 978-3-15-010818-5 .
  • Daring! Sensational!! Scandalous!!! Of the successes and failures of fashion innovations after 1850 . In: Fashion Talks. Book accompanying the exhibition at the Museum for Communication Berlin, ed. v. Lieselotte Kugler and Gregor Isenbort . Catalogs of the Museum Foundation Post and Telecommunication, Vol. 32, Berlin 2011, ISBN 978-3-9813202-2-0 , pp. 221-231.
  • Restriction - Distinction - Inspiration. Radii of Movement in Fashion . In: Dorothea Mink (ed.): Fashion - Out of Order. Disruption as a Principle . Arnoldsche, Stuttgart 2011, ISBN 978-3-89790-358-6 , pp. 16-27.
  • Imagined nudity. The "nudity fashion" around 1800 . In: Luise. The queen's clothes. Fashion, jewelry and accessories at the Prussian court around 1800 . Exhibition catalog of the Prussian Palaces and Gardens Foundation Berlin-Brandenburg . Hirmer Verlag, Munich 2010, ISBN 978-3-7774-2381-4 , pp. 51-61.
  • The technical dress. In: DRESSED! Art en Vogue. Kunstforum International , Vol. 197, June – July 2009, pp. 176–199 online .
  • Berlin shows fashion. From dress parties, demonstrators and the first fashion shows . In: Nadine Barth (ed.): Berlin Fashion. Metropolis of fashion . DuMont Buchverlag , Cologne 2008, ISBN 9783832190613 , pp. 12-17.
  • Sensational sports costumes. The clothes of the aviation pioneers. In: The Sisters of Icarus. Woman and flight . Exhib. Accompanying publication of the Zeppelin Museum Friedrichshafen. Jonas Verlag, Marburg 2004, ISBN 978-3894453299 , pp. 210-237.
  • Adelheid Rasche / Gundula Wolter (eds.): Ridikül! Fashion in Caricature 1600–1900. SMB-DuMont, Berlin / Cologne 2003, ISBN 3-8321-7388-9 .
  • Devil horns and pleasure apples. Fashion criticism in words and pictures 1150–1620. Jonas Verlag, Marburg 2002, ISBN 3-89445-307-9 .
  • The television suit for women: a fashionable phenomenon from the early days of television. A fashion-sociological consideration of the connection between technical developments, changed living and consumption habits and new fashions using the example of the establishment and generalization of television. In: weapons and costume studies . Zeitschrift für Waffen- und Clothinggeschichte, H. 1, 2000, pp. 17–34.
  • Pants, female. Cultural history of women's pants. Jonas Verlag, Marburg 1994, ISBN 3-89445-176-9 .
  • The packaging of the male sex. An illustrated cultural history of the pants. Jonas Verlag, Marburg 1988, ISBN 3-922-561-77-2 .
  • Sexual boastfulness of men at the beginning of modern times. A contribution about the phenomenon of the pubic capsule as a sign of male self-manifestation. In: FKW Journal for Gender Research and Visual Culture, H. 17, 1994, pp. 23-29 online .

See also

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Prof. Dr. Gundula Wolter on the website of the Berlin-Weißensee School of Art. Retrieved November 12, 2019 .
  2. ↑ Website of the netzwerk mode textil. Retrieved February 3, 2019 .
  3. ↑ Yearbooks online. Retrieved February 3, 2019 .
  4. ↑ Proceedings Intelligent Connections online. Retrieved February 3, 2019 .
  5. ↑ Devil horns and pleasure apples . In: FAZ , June 7, 2003, accessed on February 3, 2019.
  6. ↑ Forked at the bottom . In: Die Zeit , January 6, 1995, accessed on February 3, 2019.
personal data
SURNAME Wolter, Gundula
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German fashion historian
DATE OF BIRTH 4th February 1951
PLACE OF BIRTH Frankfurt am Main , Germany