Chypre

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Chypre (French; [ 'ʃi: prə ]) classifies a family of perfumes that consist of a hesperidic top note of citrus oils such as bergamot , orange , lemon or neroli , a floral heart note of rose and jasmine oil , and a warm, woody-mossy base note consist of oak moss and musk . The woody aspects of a chypre composition are often accentuated by characteristic secondary notes, mostly patchouli oil , but often also vetiver or sandalwood .

History

The name is derived from the perfume Chypre , which François Coty created in 1917 and named after the island of Cyprus (French: Chypre ) because the fragrance components in it mainly came from Mediterranean countries . Chypre was often imitated and thus became the prototype of an entire fragrance family, although related fragrance compositions could be found throughout the 19th century .

Fragrance concept

The concept of chypre fragrances is carried by the contrast between the fresh citrus accord and the warm, woody oakmoss base, with patchouli oil often also being an integral element of the composition. The basic chord consists of:

  • Citrus complex: bergamot , orange , lemon , lime , tangerine or neroli .
  • Wood notes, mostly nuanced by patchouli oil, but often also nuanced by vetiver , sandalwood or labdanum .
  • Oak moss or a harmless substitute such as Evernyl (2,4-dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoic acid methyl ester) or Orcinyl 3 (3-methoxy-5-methylphenol).
  • Musk stock made from various musk bodies.

Animal notes such as civet or amber give the basic chord additional expressiveness; the heart note mostly contains rose and jasmine oil . Often linalool , coumarin , cinnamon oil , benzoin , styrax and coriander are also used.

In addition to the chypres, there are the following other important fragrance families: Fougères , Orientals, Gourmands and Florals. Unlike the fougères, which are limited to men's perfumery, and the florals that are only found in women's fragrances, chypres exist equally for both sexes. Chypre fragrances were characterized by a certain bitterness in the after-smell caused by oak moss. However, since oakmoss is allergenic, harmless substitutes are usually used and the amount of patchouli oil is often increased.

Allegedly, after the EU restricted the use of oak moss, it turned out that the allergen was the cheaper tree moss used to stretch the oak moss. However, the relative chloratranol content is decisive; the use of this substance in cosmetics was banned by the EU in March 2017.

Subcategories of the Chypre fragrance family

  • Animal chypres, such as Cabochard (Grés, 1959).
  • Floral chypres, such as Knowing ( Estée Lauder , 1988).
  • Fruity chypres such as femme (Rochas, 1944) or Mitsouko (Guerlain, 1919).
  • Green chypres, like aliage (Estée Lauder, 1972).
  • Woody aromatic chypres, such as Aromatics Elixir (Clinique, 1972).
  • Leathery animal chypres, such as Cuir de Russie ( Chanel , 1924).
  • Fresh citric chypres, such as CK One ( Calvin Klein , 1994).

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ 'Chypre' Microsoft Encarta Dictionary, 2006.
  2. ↑ Definition of the Chypre Musées de Grasse ( Memento of March 10, 2007 in the Internet Archive )
  3. ^ Nigel Groom, The New Perfume Handbook , 2nd ed., Blackie Academic & Professional, London, 1997, p. 65.
  4. ↑ See Musées de Grasse ( Memento of August 10, 2007 in the Internet Archive ), International Museum of Perfumery
  5. ↑ H&R Fragrance Guide / Duftatlas / Atlas Olfactif, Quensen & Oudras Verlag, Lamspringe, 2000, ISBN 3-922805-69-8 , p. 14.
  6. ^ Paul Jellinek, Internship of the Modern Perfumer , Dr. Alfred Hüthig Verlag GmbH, Heidelberg, 2nd edition, 1960. p. 65.
  7. ↑ Luca Turin: Honor where honor is due. In: NZZ Folio . Issue 4, 2007.
  8. ↑ See [1] ; on allergological relevance [2]