Hans Rein
Hans Rein (born March 2, 1919 in Zurich ; † November 3, 2009 ) was a Swiss mountaineer and member of the Zurich Alpine Ski Club and the Uto SAC section .
Life
Hans Rein belonged to the climbing avant-garde of the post-war period and in his career as a mountaineer he mainly opened up new routes, as most of the peaks in Switzerland had already been climbed. He had also climbed mountains of the most difficult grade at the time, the 6th.
Hans Rein belonged to the group of alpinists Gerecht, Wörndle, Huss and Leni Merk, who devoted themselves to the development of the Windgallen area in the 1940s.
On June 24, 1945, the Zurich alpinists Otto Gerecht, Ferdel Wörndle, Hans Rein and Hannes Huss (SAC and Alpiner Ski Club Zurich) succeeded after a few attempts, the first ascent of the 2950 m high Ruchen window tower, where quite a few climbers had to admit defeat. With that the last independent summit of the Urner Alps had been conquered and at the same time the biggest problem on the south side of the Windgällen had been solved.
On April 18, 1946, Hans Rein started with Otto Gerecht and Hannes Huss on the first winter ascent of the Tournanche ridge or the eastern ridge of the Dent d'Hérens . The Tournan Ridge is one of the longest ridges in the Alps. From Col Tournanche to the summit, it measures exactly 2.2 km in horizontal projection, with a height difference of 700 m. It has four distinct peaks, two of which are named after the most famous guides in Val Tournanche. After an absence of 60 hours and two bivouacs , the alpinists reached their starting point again, the Schönbielhütte of the Monte Rosa section of the SAC.
On September 15, 1946, Hans Rein and Leni Merk succeeded in the first ascent of the S-edge of the cave: V + "on sight" in the delicate, downwardly layered, finely-chipped high mountain limestone.
On April 15, 1949, Hans Rein, Ernst Schulthess and Josef Nadai managed the first winter ascent of the Schaligrat on the Weisshorn at 4506 m. What started as a reconnaissance trip (exploration trip, see Helvetism ) to see whether the condition of the glacier and the rocks allowed an inspection of the Shali ridge ended as a successful inspection. The Weisshorn is one of the most difficult four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps.
After the Second World War, the Alps were considered to have been developed for a long time. For first ascents in so-called “human” degrees of difficulty, only tours that were not very inviting for tourists remained. They were usually very heavy and rarely beautiful, which means they were really worthwhile. The news of a first ascent, which had the characteristics of an excellent climbing tour and which could not only be warmly recommended because of its rarity, was all the more pleased. The southern edge of the Gross Schijen was one such tour, which the two rope teams Hans Rein / Leni Merk and Josef Nadai / Franz Baumgartner did for the first time on July 3, 1949. The initiative came from Hans Rein. The Gross Schijen (2785 m) is the southernmost peak of the Rienzenstock-Bächistock range in the canton of Uri. From the summit, the south ridge descends moderately steeply at first, then, after a flatter section of the ridge, abruptly breaks off in huge rows of slabs towards the Oberalp Pass . Where the slab sections of the south-east and south-west walls of the mountain meet, they form a steep, repelling edge, the south edge, over a distance of around 200 m.
First ascents
| date | mountain | annotation |
|---|---|---|
| September 20, 1942 | Plate heads, 2899 m | 20 m under diagonal crack |
| October 10, 1943 | Vorder Feldschijen, 2828 m | N ridge, new route |
| October 1, 1944 | Scherenspitz N wall, 1926 m | new route |
| March 25, 1945 | Alpgnoferlücke (2767 m) - Ruchen (2812 m) | Winter inspection |
| May 13, 1945 | Big windgalls, 3188 m | N wall, crossed skis |
| June 24, 1945 | Ruchen window tower, 2918 m | First ascent |
| August 26, 1945 | Ruchennadel, 3024 m | O ridge |
| October 21, 1945 | Cave stock, 2903 m | SW wall |
| 18.-24. April 1946 | Dent d'Hérens, 4180 m | Winter ascent of the east ridge |
| September 15, 1946 | Cave stock, 2903 m | S edge |
| October 5, 1947 | Seewenhorn, 2720 m | O-edge |
| November 9, 1947 | Mattenberg, 3104 m | W ridge |
| June 13, 1948 | Sustenhorn, 3503 m | N wall |
| June 27, 1948 | Wichelhorn, 2767 m | S ridge |
| 18.-21. September 1948 | Sonnigstock IV. | S wall, new route |
| 15-18 April 1949 | Weisshorn, 4505 m | Schaligrat, winter ascent |
| July 3, 1949 | Gross Schijen (Uri), 2785 m | S edge |
| July 17, 1949 | Wichelturm-Wichelhorn, 2767 m | S edge |
| September 18, 1949 | Diedenberg, 2658 m | W ridge |
| June 11, 1950 | Juzfadstock, 2771 m | S ridge |
| July 1, 1951 | Hochschijen, 2634 m | S ridge |
| July 8, 1951 | Mittagsstock, 2989 m | Südrippe, Westgipfel S-Wand (descent) |
| July 15, 1951 | Mittagsstock, 2989 m | East summit S ridge |
| June 21, 1953 | Schneehüenerstock (Uri), 2944 m | W ridge |
| June 30, 1957 | Forcella, 2845 m | S-wall |
| September 1, 1957 | Juzfadstock, 2771 m | SO ridge |
Remarks
- ↑ This is probably the P. 2944 between Schneehüenerstock ( 2859 m above sea level ) and Kröntenlücke .
Individual evidence
- ↑ Hans Rein: Tour book (1938-1963) of the ascents of pure Hans . Various entries of the first ascents in route guides of the SAC.
- ↑ Article by F. Wörndle from the sports newspaper of September 28, 1945: First ascent of the Ruchenfensterturm (2918 m)
- ↑ Article from the sports newspaper of May 17, 1946: First winter ascent of the Dent d'Hérens (4180 m) over the Tournanchegrat
- ↑ Source: Weisshorn-Schalligrat, article by Josef Nadai in Die Alpen 1949, issue 11
- ↑ Article by Josef Nadai from the sports newspaper from September 22, 1950: Gross Schijen Südkante - a classy rock tour
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Rein, Hans |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Swiss mountaineer |
| DATE OF BIRTH | March 2, 1919 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Zurich |
| DATE OF DEATH | November 3, 2009 |
| Place of death | Switzerland |