Jerry Moffatt

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Jerry Moffatt , actually Jeremy Charles Moffatt (born March 18, 1963 ) is an English climber. In the 1980s and early 1990s, he was considered one of the world's best climbers.

He began climbing in the late 1970s while he was in school at St. David's College in Llandudno . He left college in 1980 and moved to Tremadog . Here he was able to make a name for himself, among other things, with the second ascent of Ron Fawcett's Strawberries route ( difficulty level : E6 6b English) in Wales. In a very short time he was able to repeat the world's toughest routes and a. Genesis (5.13a) in Eldorado Canyon (Nevada) and Equinox (5.13a) in Joshua Tree National Park in the USA, Super Imn in Japan and Bidule in France. With Papy on Sight (8a French) he succeeded in climbing one of the most difficult routes at the time in the Verdon Valley . In 1983, in addition to the quick repetition of the three hardest trails in Germany, he also managed the first ascent of Ekel (IX + (UIAA)) and The Face (X- (UIAA)). Both were the hardest routes in Germany at the time.

At the end of 1984, pain in his elbows began to hinder him more and more. Nevertheless he climbed together with Ron Kauk for the ABC in free climbing on the Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite National Park . Treatments in the USA and an operation in Germany did not improve again until 1986. He started training again in November when his brother died in April 1987. This event set him back morally. Then he caught up with the world's top climbing again. In 1988 he completed the three hardest climbing routes in France and the USA. In 1987 he started with the emerging competitive climbing. He won several world cups before retiring from competitive climbing in 1990.

From 2002 he withdrew from extreme sport climbing and concentrated more on surfing and golf.

He produced several climbing films such as Hard Grit , The Real Thing , One Summer and Stone Love . In January 2009 his autobiography Revelations was published (with the collaboration of Niall Grimes), which was published in German translation in 2011 under the title Rockgod .

Important first ascents and repetitions (selection)

1981
  • First ascent: "Helmut Schmitt" (E6 6b (British scale)), Stoney Middleton, Great Britain
  • First ascent: "Little Plum", 1st SL (E6 6c), Stoney Middleton, Great Britain
  • First ascent: “Psyche 'n Burn” (E6 6b), Tremadog, Wales.
1982
  • First ascent: "Little Plum", 2nd SL (E6 6c), Stoney Middleton, Great Britain
  • First ascent: “Rooster Booster”, 2nd SL (E6 6c), Raven Tor, Great Britain
  • Repetitions:
1983
  • First ascent: “Ulysses” (E6 6b), Stanage, Great Britain
  • First ascent: “Master's Wall” (E7 6b), Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, Wales.
  • First ascent: “Masterclass” (8a, French scale), Pen Trwyn, Wales.
  • Onsight repetitions: " Sautanz " (IX, (UIAA), first inspection: Kurt Albert , 1982), "Heisse Finger" (IX (UIAA), first inspection: Wolfgang Güllich , 1982) and "Chasin 'the Trane" (IX , (UIAA), First inspection: John Bachar , 1981), Northern Franconian Jura , Germany.
  • First ascent: "Disgust" (IX +, (UIAA)), Northern Franconian Jura, Germany.
  • First ascent: "The Face" (X-, (UIAA)), Altmühltal, Germany.
1984
  • First ascents:
    • "Papy on Sight" (8a (French)), Verdon Gorge, France.
    • Verbal Abuse (E7 6c), Raven Tor, UK
    • "Revelations" (8a + (French)), Raven Tor, Great Britain
    • "Messiah" (E6 6c), Burbage South, Great Britain
    • "Isao Ikeda" (7a (Fb -Fontainebleau scale)) Ogawayama, Japan.
  • Repetitions:
    • “ Midnight Lightning ” (V9, first ascent: Ron Kauk , 1978), Yosemite, USA.
    • "Statement of Youth" (8a (French), first visit: Ben Moon , 1984), Pen Trwyn, Wales.
    • Flash ascent of "Chimpanzodrome" (7c + (French), first ascent: Jean Pierre Bouvier, 1981)
    • “Bidule” (8a + (French), first ascent: Marc le Menestrel , 1984), Saussois, France.
    • Onsight: “Pol Pot” (7c + (French)) Verdon Gorge, France.
    • Onsight: “The Phoenix” (5.13a, first ascent: Ray Jardine , 1977), Yosemite, USA.
    • Flash ascent: "Super Imjin" (5.12b / c, E6 6b), Ogawayama, Japan
1987
  • Repetitions:
    • “Ghettoblaster” (X + (UIAA), first inspection: Wolfgang Güllich, 1986), Frankenjura, Germany.
    • 2nd ascent of “Le Rage de Vivre” (8b + (French), first ascent: Antoine le Menestrel, 1986), Buoux, France.
    • 3. Ascent of “Le Minimum” (8b + (French), first ascent: Marc le Menestrel, 1986), Buoux, France.
1988
  • Repetitions:
    • “La Specter des Surmutant” (8b + (French), first ascent: Jean Baptiste Tribout, 1988), Buoux, France.
    • “Scarface” (5.14a, first ascent: Scott Franklin 1988), Smith Rock, USA.
    • “White Wedding” (5.14a, first ascent: Jean Baptiste Tribout 1988), Smith Rock, USA.
    • "To Bolt Or Not To Be" (5.14a, first ascent: Jean Baptiste Tribout 1986), Smith Rock, USA.
  • First ascents:
    • “Stone Love” (X + / XI- (UIAA)), Frankenjura, Germany.
    • "Superman" (8a + (French)), Cressbrook, Great Britain
1990-2002
  • 1990 First ascent: "Liquid Ambar" (8c / + (French)), Pen Trwyn, Wales.
  • 1991 First ascent: "Stick It" (8a + Fb, V12) and The Force (Font 8a, V11), Yosemite, USA.
  • 1992 Repetition: "Punks in the Gym" (8b + (French), first inspection: Wolfgang Güllich, 1985), Grampians, Australia.
  • 1992 First ascent: "Zorlac the Destroyer" (8b (French)), Grampians, Australia.
  • 1992 Onsight ascent: "Serpentine" (8a (French), first ascent: Malcolm Mathesen 1988), Grampians, Australia.
  • 1993 First ascent: "The Dominator" (8b Fb, V13), Yosemite, USA.
  • 1994 First ascent: "Big Kahuna" (5.13c / d), Lions Head, Ontario, Canada.
  • 1995 First ascent: "Evolution" (8c (French)), Raven Tor, Great Britain
  • 1995 First ascent: "Renegade Master" (E8 7a), Froggatt Edge, Great Britain
  • 1995 First ascent: “Progress” (8c (French)), Kilnsey, Great Britain
  • 1996 First ascent: “The Joker” (8a Fb), Stanage, Great Britain
  • 1997 First ascent: "Samson" (E8 7b), Burbage South, Great Britain
  • 2002 First ascent: “The Ace” (8b Fb), Stanage, Great Britain
  • 2002 Repetition: "Nutsa" (8a + (Fb), first ascent: Fred Nicole , 2000), Rocklands, South Africa.

Competitive climbing

1987
  • 8th place in Arco (at the 1st Rockmaster )
  • 6th place in Troubat
1988
  • 1st place in Seynes
  • 4th place in Lyon
  • 3rd place in Arco
1989
  • 1st place in Leeds, La Riba, Cologne and Madonna di Campiglio
  • 2nd place in Lyon
  • 3rd place in Nuremberg and Bercy
1990
  • 1st place in Bercy, London National, Maurienne Master,
  • 2nd place in Japan and Vienna
  • 3rd place in La Rib
  • 5th place at the Rockmaster in Arco

literature

Web links

proof

  1. ↑ Jerry Moffat: Rockgod - The life of a climbing legend , Panico Alpinverlag, 2011 p. 399ff
  2. ↑ Jerry Moffat: Rockgod - The life of a climbing legend , Panico Alpinverlag, 2011 p. 403ff
personal data
SURNAME Moffatt, Jerry
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Moffatt, Jeremy Charles (full name)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION English sport climber, film producer and non-fiction author
DATE OF BIRTH March 18, 1963