Russia leather
Russia leather (short Juchleder or short Juchten even Juften ) is a certain kind of tanned leather from the skin of calves or cattle . The name comes from the Russian juften in Middle Low German .
The Russian leather is very firm, dense and supple and is rubbed with birch tar oil, so it has a strong smell. It was originally made in Russia . In the 18th century it also spread in German-speaking countries, where it was used as the upper material of boots and shoes , as well as for decorative goods, book covers and wallets . Russia leather is used, for. B. in the manufacture of shoes and watch straps .
Etymologically, the Russian yucht (older) or juft goes back to Persian ğoft “pair” (in Western yuxta “team”), since the hides were tanned in pairs.
The finest and softest of these leathers was traded under the name of Russian leather .
Meyer's Konversationslexikon from 1888–1889
Juften (Russian, falsely Juchten), tanned (vegetable-tanned) leather, which used to be made exclusively in Russia and is characterized by its strength, suppleness, a peculiar smell, the property of not being attacked by insects and the water To offer resistance is a mark. It is made from good hides from young cattle, which are depilated, cleaned, swollen in a sour bath and tanned with willow or poplar bark . After tanning , the hides are placed in a paste made from rye flour , salt and lukewarm water for two days to make them more supple , then they are washed and left to dry. The best hides are determined to be white Juften and only rubbed on the grain side (hair side) with birch tar oil or seal stran and then dried, the rest are dyed red or black and then also greased. Tar leather contains twice as much fat as the rest of the Juften. After drying, the leather is tumbled , folded , peeled and rubbed again on the grain side with seal oil and tallow . Depending on the use, the Juften is finally smoothed or shagred (provided with an artificial grain pattern ). The white leather is used for army purposes, the red one for portfolio work, the black one for harness and shoes. Juften owes its smell to birch tar oil. Juften boots must be diligently coated with oil. The best Juften comes from the Novgorod region and southern Russia, but outside of Russia, too, the goods are of excellent quality, and ordinary red leather is often scented so that it smells like Juften.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Friedrich Kluge , Alfred Götze : Etymological dictionary of the German language . 20th ed., Ed. by Walther Mitzka , De Gruyter, Berlin / New York 1967; Reprint (“21st unchanged edition”) ibid 1975, ISBN 3-11-005709-3 , p. 334 ( Juchten ).
- ↑ Package insert from Farina for the men's fragrance "Russian Leather", August 2018