Costume designer

The costume designer works with the stage or production designer and the director to create the costumes for a theater or film production . Costume design can be studied at some art schools. Sometimes costumes and sets are designed by one person, which is then referred to as "equipment" (stage and costumes).

Lodovico Ottavio Burnacini , designs for headgear from the "Maschere" series, late 17th century. Vienna, Theater Museum.

Costume designer at the theater

draft

The costume designer initially works closely with the director. In coordination with the theater management, he selected a piece, which he then worked on in terms of content with the set designer, the costume designer and the dramaturge. In addition, suitable actors have been appointed to cast the roles.

After text analysis and research and mostly in response to the stage design, costume designers create their designs, which in the theater also include the mask. In further collaboration with the director, set designer and dramaturge, a visual concept develops that creates the intended effect of the staging. This preparation phase can sometimes begin longer than a year before the premiere.

The costume designer and his assistant try to find the characters in sketches, photos, collages and collections of materials. It is very important to know the actors, their physical impact, their charisma and their versatility. This is why the costumes are often only determined, changed or redesigned during the rehearsal period.

Lodovico Ottavio Burnacini, designs for headgear from the "Maschere" series, late 17th century. Vienna, Theater Museum.

implementation

Costume workshop

For the implementation, the costume designer meets with the theater's costume department and presents his designs and material samples. The technical, temporal and financial feasibility is coordinated with the management of the department, the dressmakers, tailors, assistants and dressmakers and the mask department.

The dressmaker will then develop ideas for realizing the designs and coordinate them with the costume designer. First samples are made on tailor's mannequins with purchased or made costume parts before there are fittings with the actors. Here the seat, but also the effect of the costume and the possibilities and restrictions for the performer are checked. It is important to use the costumes during the stage rehearsals because they influence the actors' play. Where this is not possible in time, similar rehearsal costumes will be provided or made. The costume assistant supervises the production of the costumes, supervises the rehearsals and communicates between the director, the costume designer, the actors and the departments of the theater.

At the latest at the equipment rehearsal (called piano rehearsal in the opera) all finished costumes and masks can be seen on the stage. There are now a few days left for changes before the premiere. The stage artists (often female) dressers are available to help with the costumes . For its productions, for example, the Zurich Opera House can rely on such auxiliary staff of around 20 people. For the opening scene of the James Bond film Specter , which lasted a few minutes , individual costumes were made for 1,500 actors and costumes for the shooting within 75 minutes.