Malubiting
| Malubiting | ||
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 The Malubiting seen from the south of the Indus Valley |
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| height | 7458 m | |
| location | Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ) | |
| Mountains | Rakaposhi Haramosh Mountains ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 36.93 km → Trivor | |
| Notch height | 2193 m ↓ ( 5265 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 36 ° 2 '20 " N , 74 ° 54' 3" E | |
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| First ascent | 1971 by K. Pirker, H. Schell , H. Schindlbacher, H. Sturm | |
 Malubiting northeast (-NE), central (-C) and main (-W) peaks from north (from Rash Lake ) |
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The Malubiting is a 7458 m high mountain in the Karakoram .
It is located in the center of the Rakaposhi Haramosh Mountains , about 40 km east of the Rakaposhi , the highest (and westernmost) mountain in this mountain range. Less than 10 kilometers north is the Spantik , between these two mountains the Chogolungma Glacier rises , which flows to the east and separates the eastern Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains from the Spantik-Sosbun Mountains , another chain of the Lesser Karakoram.
Peak of malubiting
When viewed from the east of the Chogolungma Glacier, one looks at the prominent central peak ( Malubiting Central ). Seen from the north, however, it does not show a great difference in notch to the main summit, which is called Malubiting West because of its location in the massif . The Malubiting Central is flanked by two secondary peaks, the 6970 m high Malubiting Southeast (notch height: 254 m) and the 6834 m high Malubiting Northeast (notch height: 193 m), which is also known as Malubiting North . To the west of the main peak lies the 6785 m high Juto Sar , with a notch height of 265 meters it is also a secondary peak of the Malubiting. Further to the west follow the peaks of the 6824 m high Miar Chhish , which is a separate mountain with a notch height of 724 meters.
Ascent history
An expedition sponsored by the Army Mountaineering Association with British and Pakistani officers explored the area of the Chogolungma Glacier in 1959. The Pakistani Jawed Akhter and the British AJ Imrie managed to climb the Malubiting Southeast Summit for the first time on August 2nd.
The Poles Richard Szafirski (expedition leader), Andrej Heinrich , Roman Petrycki and Andrzej Kus tried in 1969 to reach the Malubiting from the north from the Chogolungma glacier. The much shorter approach from the Hunza Valley across the Barpu Glacier was not permitted because the Pakistani government had closed the Hunza Valley to expeditions. The climbers climbed the pass between Spantik in the north and Malubiting north in the south (and between Chogolungma in the east and Barpu glacier in the west), which they named Polan La (“Polish Pass”). As a detour, they climbed the Malubiting Northeast Summit on October 8th. Two days later they reached the plateau between the central and main summit at about 7,100 meters, before they had to abandon their attempt to climb due to heavy snowdrifts and the great danger of avalanches.
The first ascent of Malubiting West was finally achieved by the Austrian “Dr.” , led by Horst Schindlbacher. Arndt Schussler Memorial Expedition “1971. The Graz Schindlbachers, Kurt Pirker, Hilmar Sturm and Hanns Schell reached the summit on 23 August in clear weather; an attempt a few days earlier had to be broken off in a storm. The Styrians completed the route that the Poles tried in 1969.
Web links
- Malubiting on Peakbagger.com (English)
Individual evidence
- ↑ HRA Streather: Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959, Chogo Lungma region, Karakoram. In: American Alpine Journal 1961, pp. 413f. (AAJO) , accessed November 5, 2012.
- ↑ Andrzej Kus: Autumn under Malubiting. In: Himalayan Journal 29 (1969) , accessed November 5, 2012.
- ↑ Hanns Schell: Malubiting, Karakoram. In: American Alpine Journal 1972, pp. 193f. (AAJO) , accessed November 5, 2012.
- ^ Horst Schindlbacher: The First Ascent of Malubiting, 1971. In: Himalayan Journal 32 (1972-73). , accessed November 5, 2012.