Fur sewing machines

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Fur sewing machine with "Quick-Stop" motor

For the fur processing four special were fur sewing machines developed, the actual fur sewing machine , the Pikiermaschine that Staffiermaschine and Blindstichbändelmaschine . Special or universal machines with similar systems are also used in the manufacture of textile and leather goods.

The fur sewing machine or simply fur machine , also known as a skinning machine , is a special sewing machine for sewing skins . Since sewing in the manufacturing process of fur goods takes up a large part of the work required, the resulting large cost savings favored an extraordinary development and upswing in skinning and the use of partly new, more complex working techniques. At about the same time as its introduction, a modern fur fashion was created in which the fur is primarily processed with the hair on the outside.

The machine creates a highly elastic, single-thread chainstitch seam in the manner of an overlock seam . The seam can be easily separated. This is a great advantage for the fur processor who handles natural material, who often has to adjust the seam connection more precisely according to the color or hair length progression, or rearrange the fur parts when redesigning or changing the model. The fur sewing machine is mainly used in skinning and for similar work in the milliner's trade , and occasionally also in other trades, in the shoe industry, for example, for sewing around the insoles. Sewing fur material with the fur sewing machine requires considerable training and practice.

Another special sewing machine used in skinning is the fur pricking machine for applying interlinings when processing fur. Both machines form a single-thread chain stitch seam, the pricking machine as a flat stitch.

Instead of feeding it in by hand, a staffing machine can also be used to insert the fabric inner lining ; a blindstitch tying machine to sew on the ribbon .

A fifth, more comprehensive machine is the Pfaff skin discharge machine, which takes over the entire process of discharging skins, including the final sewing.

Sewing in an insole with the Consew (2010)
Repairing butchery cuts in a fur trimming shop (2016)
Outlet sewing (1986)
Sew with the tweezers
Greek seamstress at a fur machine with a seam height limiter

Historical development

Before the invention of the fur sewing machine, it was hardly conceivable for most furriers that such a difficult job as sewing fur could be carried out with the help of a machine. In the middle of the 1890s, an Austrian furrier heard his grandfather say: "If you invent everything, a machine with which you can sew fur, there won't be." A few years later he saw the first double-coil Schultheiss fur sewing machine in his son's workshop.

The basis of the fur sewing machine was probably created by Balthasar Krems from Mayen in the Rhineland in 1800. He constructed a sewing machine that for the first time had a hook gripper and an eye-sharp needle. The special thing about the machine, however, was the spike transport , which pushed the sewing material on at certain intervals due to the horizontally working needle. Krems, on the other hand, based its design on the inventions of the single-thread chain stitch machines by Karl F. Weissenthal and Thomas Saint from England (patented 1789), as well as those of the tailor Bartholomäus Thimonnier from St. Etienne, France (1830). Around 18 of Thimonnier's machines, initially made largely of wood, were used to sew military uniforms. However, this workshop was destroyed by an angry crowd of hand sewers who feared for their jobs. It was the first sewing machine that was used to produce finished textile goods ( ready-made clothing ). In 1851 Thimonnier showed his machine, now made entirely of metal, at the Great Crystal Palace Exhibition , but it did not attract any attention there, and he died six years later, completely impoverished.

The two-thread or overlock sewing machine was built almost simultaneously by the Americans Walter Hunt and Elias Howe around the middle of the 19th century. The serial production of the fur sewing machine began shortly before the turn of the 20th century. The first generally used machine was produced by the Singer Co. in the USA.

At the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900 , Revillon Frères showed the first coats that were made entirely using the sewing-intensive exhaust technology. Either the machines or maybe just the seamstresses were not yet able to achieve the particularly fine seams required for this. So these furs were still sewn entirely by hand; The seamstresses alone, without the furriers, needed 1,400 hours of work for one coat. Today, skilled fur machine sewers would probably sew a similar, elaborate coat in less than 250 hours, including the interior finishing that was probably also included at the time. At the same time, however, Revillon Frères exhibited a blanket made of 22,000 mink tails that was “ admirable from all sides” , “ gallonized with fine leather and sewn with a machine [!]”.

The situation in the city of Wroclaw is described as follows in 1896:

“Even today, most of the sewing is done by hand, although there has been a fur sewing machine for about 15 years, a small machine tool that is constructed according to the glove sewing machine system. It is set in motion with the feet like an ordinary sewing machine. The machine delivers as much as six seamstresses, but it requires a skilled worker to operate and, since it can hold too much leather, it is essentially only to be used for the production of coarser work, especially for the production of fur linings. From this it can be explained that z. For example, in the factory there are only 6 sewing machines for every 100 fur seamstresses, and that some magazines work entirely without a machine. [...] To make the cloth hats, the furrier uses a hat sewing machine, which is also set in motion with his feet. "

- Schiller

The first fur sewing machines, like the textile sewing machines, were still driven by the seamstress with a foot pedal followed by a flywheel. Soon people began to use a motor mounted under the sewing table instead. These old machines continued to operate well into the aftermath of World War II. Although they were not designed for this, they continued to do their job decades after they had been converted to engine operation. Only the higher types suffered a little from the vibrations that occurred during sewing.

In 1870, at the instigation of AB Citroen , Berlin, in the sewing machine factory of Joseph Priesner, the first attempt was made to manufacture a machine that produced overlocked seams for fur. A seam was mainly suitable for "Polish trim", which at that time was a main item in skinning and required a tight two-thread seam. It was also possible to produce a version derived from the glove sewing machine, which was ultimately further developed into a single-thread version. In 1873 she was awarded a prize at the World Exhibition in Vienna. When Joseph Priesner died in 1881, the company M. Rittershausen (owner Ernst Müller, later Oskar Strobel) took over the company. A now much simplified construction was brought onto the market under the name "Elektra". It sewed equally well with one or two threads and could be used for all common types of fur with its different leather thicknesses. From 1888 the Rittershausen company sold the American fur sewing machine “Roland” in Europe in three versions, it could even sew backwards. The “Excelsior” was added as a further American system (1862). According to its own information, the company M. Rittershausen supplied the entire European market around 1925 with almost no significant competition. This was before the very excellent and robust machine "Success" was brought onto the market, which became very popular (class 17-1), "for foot operation, but particularly suitable for power operation". The construction comes from the London company Allbook & Hashfield.

In 1898 the American Singer sewing machines AG brought their first European model onto the market (46 K 21). The Singer machines, which were soon improved, were equipped with ratchet wheel transports (type 46 K 23; 46 K 24). Further improvements were made in 1900 (46 K 26; 46 K 27; 46 K 28). Another advance in 1907 was a stab regulator and fraction transport. In 1914 there were two other types with technical improvements (46 K 33; 46 K 34). After the First World War, a machine for light skins (46 K 34) and one for heavy skins (46 K 35) came on the market. The front transport disc had a ball bearing and the stitch regulation was also improved.

In the first few years there was also the Schultheiss machine, which the furrier referred to as “indestructible”.

Another important manufacturer was J. Strobel & Söhne, Munich. In terms of shape and structure, the tall Strobel machine showed significant improvements over other makes (class 40-1, later 40-1N). It was characterized by a high level of operational reliability. For the first time with fully automatic circulating oil lubrication (1954, class 140), the machines are still in operation.

The "Wakra" came from Richard Kranich & Sohn in Leipzig, similar models from the companies Ossan Company, USA and Hermann, Berlin. Other companies, among others, were Fischer in Vienna and Louis Brocks in Leipzig. Other manufacturers of fur sewing machines were or are among others Bonis (USA), Kranich, Lebbäus, Pfaff , Porkert, Rimoldi and Wollenberg. The machines show certain deviations from one another in terms of shape, construction and performance, but are basically the same.

After the last war, the GDR built its own machine, the "Textima" from VEB Textima sewing machine works in Limbach-Oberfrohna. The newer model had some significant design changes. In particular, the cam of the gripper cam was made of the material "Novtex", a pressed material, instead of steel. The resulting weight saving of 5/6 was emphasized. The machine also had an oil-tight housing with modern, maintenance-free oil dust lubrication (normally: oil daily, completely clean and re-oil the interior once a week).

A revolution in outlet sewing appeared to be a prototype of the automatic fur outlet machine from Pfaff that was presented in 1981 at the fur fair in Frankfurt am Main . The amazing construction takes care of the entire process from cutting the skins, the back of the outlet cuts according to the given calculation and the sewing in one operation (model 3560). There were options for this new development amounting to a double-digit D-Mark million amount. In 1984 the device was ready for series production and was delivered for the first time. According to the company, orders were received from many countries, but the automatic outlet has probably not been manufactured for a long time.

  • Fur sewing machine heads

  • System Boland, first built in 1888 (around 1900)

  • Electra, with handle on the handwheel (ca.1900)

  • Jacobs (USA). The oldest model in a collection in the Greek fur sewing province of Kastoria

  • old singers

  • old knight house

  • Berwina

  • Success

  • Wakra

  • KVG (Czech Republic)

  • Textima 8500

  • modern Strobel high-speed sewing machine, self-oiler with fan

I. The fur sewing machine

Greek fur sewers processing pieces of fur (1955)

The fur machine sewer

Even in relatively small businesses, sewing on the fur sewing machine was usually only carried out by one or some of the fur sewers employed there. As a rule, fur sewers were female workers with lower wages. For the more monotonous work, always carried out in the same sitting posture, the fur sewer was paid a tariff-based complication surcharge on the wage of 10 pfennigs, which remained the same over the years, when the majority of the work was done on the fur sewing machine. After the arrival of the first Greek fur sewers, the outlet work was often paid for by piece wages.

After the Second World War, those employed in the furrier received, because of the assumed health pollution; allocated an extra milk ration. While the dust exposure and inhalation of the cut hair does not seem to be an obvious problem for the cutting furrier, this probably still poses a health risk for the sewer sitting close to the cut fur and handling between the fur edges. However, studies on this do not appear to be known . Wear a face mask, especially when sewing outlets. If you have chronic respiratory and lung diseases (for example asthma or bronchitis), your doctor may not advise you to take up the profession.

The sewing

Clamped mink part, sewn on the right
Test series of spray nozzles, Becker system, L. Keskari & Co

In contrast to other sewing machines , the sewing parts to be joined do not lie flat when sewing with the fur sewing machine, but are guided vertically between two transport plates, of which the rear one is driven and the front one is free.

The two skin edges to be sewn together are placed against each other with the skin side inward and brought between the transport plates, which are opened by a foot or knee pedal. Depending on the type of fur, the edges of the fur should protrude 1 to 4 millimeters above the rim of the plate. The needle bar with the needle must be in the rearmost position. When clamping the fur edge, make sure that the hair is brushed away downwards so that it is not caught while sewing. Either with both thumbs or with the help of a spreader , the hair that has been pulled out is transported back to the hair side of the fur before each sewing interval. The needle pierces the leather in a horizontal position, and the hook wraps around the two fur edges with a single thread overlock seam.

The "brushing" of hair with the thumb is used by specially trained sewers, especially when working with smooth-haired materials such as mink fur . This sewing technique enables larger stretches to be sewn without having to stop the machine for each stroke. While the sewer alternately brushes the hair back to the fur side with both thumbs while sewing, he simultaneously blows between the fur edges for support and thus also ensures that the roots of hair that may otherwise be bent are not caught.

Brushing by blowing has long been carried out by a brushing blower instead of by the sewer. However, as early as 1974 an American furrier wrote with astonishment that these very useful devices are still less common "than chickens with teeth". They can be seen more frequently today, but they are by no means standard in all businesses in Germany either. Initial tests at the time showed that a blower reduced the training time to 75 to 90 percent. In 1981 the Strobel company took over the production of the "Komet" coating system; In 1984 the company presented two versions that are fed with air preheated to 45 degrees and that could be retrofitted to their models and the "Success". One maintenance-free version is operated with compressed air, the other works with a fan. The warm air is intended to prevent rheumatism symptoms that can occur when operating in the cold air stream. Curly skins, or those with hard, stubborn guard hair, cannot be coated in this way.

A corresponding aid has also been developed to ensure that the seam thickness is adhered to precisely, a small pin that limits the edges of the fur to be sewn. Depending on the company and closer, both additional devices are more or less in use.

Omitting skins is, according to the respective fashion, at times the main machine sewing work in skinning. Often it is then carried out by seamstresses who have specialized in this work. When omitting, the skins are cut into narrow strips, in the case of mink usually into 4 to 5 millimeter wide strips. In 1972, the Strobel company stated that the smallest cutting width to be sewn was 3 millimeters for their model class 141-40. The cuts are shifted against each other in such a way that a strip of fur is created in a greater length, for example in the length of a jacket or coat (see main article → omitting ).

In most types of fur, the seams are made against the natural direction of the hair, as this is the best way to coat the hair. Unevenly long fur edges can be put together precisely by manually braking or pushing the non-powered front plate.

The spike of a furrier's tweezers or another one with a fine tip is used as a brushing aid. The gripping pliers of the tweezers are used, among other things, to insert the machine needle, to grasp particularly fine fur particles, and by a skilled sewer to tear off the overhanging thread immediately with every seam if the skin material is suitably stable. Staffier Eva Laue says about the brushing tweezers made available by the industry that they absolutely have to be finely sharpened because they are too plump and too thick; they do not press the fine hair, "especially the undercoat, deep enough between the cut edges".

After each stitch, the fur is transported further to the right by the previously set stitch length through the transport plate. The tightness of the seam, the tension , can be set on the clamping disc on the machine cover. In order to sew an evenly flat seam, it takes some practice in guiding the fur, as well as in brushing the fur hair. If the fur is kept too flat, it will not be caught, if it rises too much, the thread will tear or the machine will skip stitches.

When a seam is finished, the hook is moved by turning the handwheel until it is just behind the sewing part, unless the machine has a motor with automatic needle reset, and some thread is removed from the tension. After the front plate has been lifted a little with the foot pedal, the sewing thread is torn off by a sharp jerk of the skin downwards to the right.

On the fur sewing machine, yarns as thin as possible should be used for normal use, i.e. for furs where the leather side is not shown. The needle should also be as fine as possible in order to damage the leather as little as possible. The thinner the leather and the thread and the more skilled the seamstress, the thinner the needle can be. The single-thread chain stitch seam (overlock stitching) of the fur sewing machine can be pulled up just like the stitches of knitwear. If you cut the thread at any point, the seam can be cut from there, against the sewing direction.

The machine

The machine table

The fur sewing machine head is attached to the machine table with easily detachable wing screws. The drive belt is led through openings from the belt pulley of the machine head to the motor suspended on the underside of the table top, as is the linkage or the chain for moving the front sewing plate. Rods or chains can be adjusted in order to be able to adapt the tread angle to the physical condition of the nearer (size, seating).

The thread plate with the thread reel is usually also on the machine table, behind the machine head, as is the thread guide that guides the thread over the machine head to the tension holder.

The machine is operated using one or two movable foot steps. If you only step one step, the motor is started by stepping backwards, the sewing plate opens to the front. Or there are two steps, a wide one for the motor and a narrower one for the plates. Many machines have a toggle lever (ventilation lever) for opening plates on the right, possibly also an additional one. At the lower end of the lever, the toggle lever disk, shaped like the shape of the knee, is attached.

The machine table is occasionally equipped with a measuring tape function. The machine drawer for hand tools, machine needles, etc. is located on the right under the table top.

Old machine tables are made of cast iron, as in the past with textile sewing machines, newer models are made of wood.

Description of the mechanism

View into an old knight house

The original drive by a foot pedal is now done by an electric motor attached to the underside of the sewing machine table, either a starter motor or a continuous runner that starts immediately (clutch motor). The machine can be started and stopped and the sewing plates opened with one or two separate footsteps. It is worth mentioning the drive by stop motors, in which the needle is simultaneously withdrawn to the starting position, backwards, after it has come to a standstill. Many models have an additional knee lever to open the sewing plate. As in the early days of the fur sewing machine, there were later machines that work with two needles for special jobs; mostly these were machine heads refitted by fur machine mechanics.

As with all other sewing machines, the most important machine elements are the needle, the hook and the material transport. The movements of these three machine parts must be perfectly coordinated. Essential parts of the fur machine head are, as an example of the most common model, the "Success":

the hook, the needle bar, the needle channel, the fur guide, the thread clamp, the thread take-up spring, the thread tension and the transport mechanism, which moves the material by one stitch length.

The two transport plates, which are toothed at the edges, are usually made in two thicknesses, a thicker version for normal sewing work and finer toothed, thinner, usually also narrower in scope, for outlet work. Originally there was only the strong version, nowadays the skinning industry generally prefers the narrower plates, with which it is easier to achieve finer seams. The contact pressure of the plates can be adapted to the respective material, as can the stitch spacing (stitch length).

Azure mink cape jacket with stitched galons (2014)
The stitch formation

In a horizontal position, the special fur machine needle pierces the edge of the fur protruding beyond the transport plate. A gripper takes hold of the thread loop that is forming and pulls it back over the edge of the fur. While the looper moves down to the rearmost position, the thread slides into a thread groove below the looper. As a result, the thread loop sitting on the hook has been spread out so that the needle tip can enter this loop when the hook is in its rearmost position on the needle. When the needle bar moves forward again, the looper is released from the needle and from the thread loop in the rearmost position and returns to its starting position.

Older machine types have a stitch output between 1500 and 8000 stitches per minute. The newer motors, which generate around 3,000 stitches per minute, are particularly advantageous for long seams.

The gripper

The hook causes the sewing thread of the fur sewing machine's own single thread chain stitch to be looped. Its end is designed in the shape of a foot, it is pointed to accommodate the thread loop. The movements of the gripper are controlled by an eccentric located on the main shaft.

After the needle thread loop has been picked up by the hook, it lifts itself during its backward movement to pull the loop over the sewing material, and at the end of its backward movement it lowers itself inside the rear plate until it is below the needle, around its spread out loop to get this pierced.

The needle

Today's machine needles are ordered metrically. The thicknesses that can be used for fur sewing are between the numbers 50 to 120, depending on the thickness of the leather, and the usual thread sizes between 70 and 130. Thicker threads and correspondingly stronger needles can also be used for decorative stitching.

The eye to be threaded in from below is located behind the tip of the plunger needle. The underside of the needle has a thread groove that is longer than the groove on the top, which must be taken into account when inserting the needle.

II. The fur pricking machine

With the fur pricking machine or simply pricking machine , also called blind stitch machine , intermediate ingredients are applied to the hide leather. A round-shaped needle is guided into the leather in such a way that it is only just gripped, while holding the pricking material without pulling hair in. The stitch depth can therefore be adjusted depending on the thickness of the fur to be pricked out.

“The blind stitch is created by a needle bent in the radius of its movement in such a way that the needle pierces the sewing material curved above the diver. [...] The arm-shaped gripper chains the sewing thread to form a highly elastic chainstitch seam, and the toothed feeder working above the sewing material pushes it further when the needle is outside the leather. ”If possible, the work should be carried out so that the needle is facing of the hairline sticks into the leather. Especially with short-haired pelts, this reduces the risk of the seam being marked on the hair side. Only in skins with sturdy hair does the direction of the seam run with the hair stroke ( calf , gazelle , seal and foal skin and horse skin ).

In addition to the flat bed pricking machine, there are also those with an inclined table. Here the work piece slides forward on the inclined table by its own weight without having to be pushed through the machine.

The machine creates a single-thread, bone-shaped seam that can be easily separated from the end, just like with the fur sewing machine. However, the work on the fur pricking machine is easier, it can be carried out by an unskilled worker after a short time. Their performance exceeds manual work many times over.

Not every fur material can be processed with the pricking machine. Thin-leather fur types in particular, such as broad-tailed, still have to be pricked out by hand.

The American Clara P. Hoffmann applied for the first German patent on a blind stitch machine with a curved needle in 1879 . In 1923, the first Strobel fur pricking machines were put on the market (class 43-K-3).

A linen binding fabric increases the tear resistance by preventing the leather from overstretching. Padding creates an additional warming effect. Reinforcing inserts such as linen , horsehair or nonwovens improve the fit of the garment. In the beginning, only particularly thin-leather areas or skins were attached with a pricking material, but after the Second World War they had already begun to prick out most items of clothing over the entire surface. In the case of coats, for example, it helped to prevent bulging of the buttocks, especially after long visits to church. Around the last third of the 20th century, the demands on fur clothing changed - fur should now not only warm and decorate, but also be as comfortable as possible - above all, it should also be as light as possible. Today, in areas with a Central European climate, not only the warming, but also the stabilizing substances are largely left out. As in earlier times, only particularly sensitive leathers are usually pricked, for example in the case of model changes, the furs that have become less tear-resistant due to natural aging.

An additional device for the fur picking machine, with which one could produce ermine and false imitations on rabbit fur, is no longer used. Blind seams with punctures the width of squat or rabbit fur were created, which held down part of the hair and thus simulated the impression of a fur connecting seam on the hair side.

Instead of using the pricking machine, specially coated intermediate materials can also be ironed on using heat using a fixing press. If carried out correctly, the tear resistance can under certain circumstances be improved more than with pricking out; however, the rigid connection between leather and fabric may create an undesirable stiffening of the hide leather.

  • "Master" class 40-2, Osby, Sweden.

  • Strobel Class 143-10

Strobel staffing machine

III. The staffing machine

The staffing machine is used to incorporate substances called “ lining silks ” into fur clothing. This two-thread blindstitch machine is mainly used in larger fur manufacturers.

According to the company, the Strobel (Class 325-43) enables "the mechanical collapse of the inner lining of fur clothing, piercing of the covering and the hems as well as the pocket bags and the sewing of the sleeve lining by hand".

IV. The blindstitch banding machine

Very little in use, designed by the company Strobel seems Blindstichbändelmaschine to be (Class 225-43). Instead of hand-stitching or gluing, she attaches the ribbon that stabilizes the fur edges with a sewing thread, just like when sewing by hand. The ribbon to be used has a width of 5 millimeters, the stitch length is also 5 millimeters. The tape is fastened in the middle with a seam.

Other sewing machines commonly used in skinning

Overlock sewing machine in a skinning shop

Sewing machines that are not specific but are used in fur processing plants are:

simple industrial or household sewing machines for silk lining and fabric processing;
Leather quilting machines for thicker leather and for velor and nappa fur;
possibly an overlock sewing machine to overcast and chain fabric edges;
possibly an automatic embroidery machine for embroidering monograms and company logos in silk lining.

Web links

Commons : Fur Sewing Machines  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

literature

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b c Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and Rough Goods, Volume XIX . Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950, p. 102–103, keyword “skinning machine” .
  2. ↑ Klaus Wiechmann: The development of the fur sewing machine . Berlin, Leipzig 1956, pp. 146–153 (In: Das Pelzgewerbe Vol. VII, No. 4, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps).
  3. ^ A b Francis Weiss : From Adam to Madam . From the original manuscript part 2 (of 2), (approx. 1980 / 1990s), in the manuscript pp. 193–194 (corr. 197–198) (English).
  4. ^ Paul Larisch: The furrier craft . 1st year edition. Self-published, Paris 1902, p. 4 .
  5. ↑ Paul Larisch , Josef Schmid: The furrier craft . 1st year, No. 1 + 2, self-published, Paris, October-November 1902, p. 31.
  6. ↑ Schiller: The skinning in Breslau, pp. 84-85 . From: Writings of the Association for Social Policy 7th Volume ( Studies on the Situation of Crafts in Germany ) 3rd Part Prussia, Leipzig 1896.
  7. ↑ Without the author's name: 100 years of Rittershausen fur sewing machines . In: All about fur internationally . No. 4 , 1970, pp. 215 .
  8. ↑ a b c d e f g h i j Horst Appelt: Fur sewing machines . 1st edition. Fachbuchverlag GmbH, Leipzig 1953.
  9. ^ Paul Schöps: The fur industry in the 19th and 20th centuries (draft) . Collection G. & C. Franke , S. 5 (undated, around 1980).
  10. ↑ a b c Eva Laue: The fur sewing, 1. Introduction . In: The fur trade . Volume X, No. 2 . Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Frankfurt am Main, Leipzig, Vienna 1959, pp. 81-83 .
  11. ↑ Without the author's indication : "Pfaff 3560" a revolutionary machine automates the skin outlet processing . In: Arpel Fur . 1985 or 1986, no. 19 , p. 334 .
  12. ↑ Wage and salary collective agreement and working time regulation for industrial workers and employees in the furrier trade. Treaty of June 17, 1983; valid from September 1, 1983; can be canceled on August 31, 1984; Notice period of 5 months . Central association of the furrier trade, Bad Homburg vd H., S. 6 .
  13. ↑ G. Damm, U. Fabriger: fur sewers and staffers. Job profile for career counseling . Central Institute for Vocational Training of the GDR , 1978.
  14. ^ David G. Kaplan: World of Furs . Fairchield Publications. Inc., New York 1974, pp. 86-87 (English).
  15. ↑ a b c 100 years of Strobel 1883–1983 . Company publication, Munich 1983, pp. 21, 29, 31, 40.
  16. ↑ Without indication of the author: New strobe device?] With preheated [r air?] [Incomplete copy] . In: Pelz International, April 1953, p. 48 .
  17. ↑ a b Without naming the author: J. Strobel & Sons - Rittershausen . In: Rund um den Pelz International No. 6, June 1972, p. 16.
  18. ^ Author collective: Der Kürschner. Technical and textbook for the furrier trade. 2nd revised edition. Vocational training committee of the central association of the furrier trade (ed.), JP Bachem publishing house, Cologne 1956, p. 68.
  19. ↑ Eva Laue: The fur sewing, 2. Structure of the fur machine . In: The fur trade . Volume X, No. 3 . Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Frankfurt am Main, Leipzig, Vienna 1959, pp. 120-126 .
  20. ↑ a b Author collective: Manufacture of tobacco products and fur manufacture . VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig 1970, p. 583.
  21. ↑ Eva Laue: The fur sewing, 3. Tools and aids of the fur seamstress . In: The fur trade . Volume X, No. 5 . Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Frankfurt am Main, Leipzig, Vienna 1959, pp. 223-233 .
  22. ^ A b c Friedrich Lorenz: Tools and machines in the skinning . 1st edition. Berlin, Leipzig 1954, pp. 17 .
  23. ↑ Without an author's name: From the bike to the sewing machine. Historical sewing machine museum Oskar Strobel . No. 12 , 1972, p. 59-60 .
  24. ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and Rauhwarenkunde, Volume XX . 1st edition. Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950, p. 171–172 key words “pricking, pricking machine” .