Pompadour (handbag)
_LACMA_M.83.281.2_(1_of_2).jpg)
The pompadour is a bag-like ladies handbag with drawstrings that also serve as a closure and handle. Other names are Réticule, Ridicule, Ridikül or wrist pouch. Since the end of the 18th century, the small pouch has been used by women of higher society for storing small everyday objects that one always wanted to have with them, e.g. B. handkerchief , smelling salts , powder and the like.
history
During the Rococo period , women of all classes carried small accessories in flat pouches that were tied with a ribbon around the waist under their wide skirts. After the introduction of Diréctoire fashion around 1795, these bags would have stood out under the mostly quite thin, sometimes even slightly transparent muslin fabrics and spoiled the silhouette.
Earlier in the 18th century, there had been handmade bags in which one yarn , sewing kit , Knüpfschiffchen u. Ä. kept. Presumably these bags have now been converted into handbags. The shape initially remained the same, only the function changed. Artful variations soon appeared, e.g. B. in the shape of a pineapple knitted or artistically embroidered bags.
What all pompadours have in common is the bag shape and the closure by means of a drawstring on the upper edge, which also serves as a suspension on the wrist. It is still worn today with evening and bridal wear, so always where pockets incorporated into the dress are not desired.
The term
Although the pompadour appears to be named after Madame de Pompadour , it is very unlikely that Madame Pompadour herself ever used one, except in its original form as a craft bag. During Pompadour's lifetime, as mentioned above, the Neccessaires were carried in pockets under the skirt. In fact, around 1800 such bags were mostly referred to as réticule (Latin-French: network, Germanized also reticule or ridicule); the name Pompadour did not appear in literature until the end of the 19th century.
In the literature
In the third chapter of Thomas Mann's novel Lotte in Weimar , set in 1816, the Ridikül is part of Lotte's equipment.
In the opening scene of Thomas Mann's novel Buddenbrooks , which takes place in 1835, the pompadour is still one of the typical accessories of the upper class women.
In Gottfried Keller's novella The Three Just Kammacher , Züs Bünzlin wears "... a large green silk riticul which she had filled with dried pears and plums ...".
In Theodor Fontane's Chess von Wuthenow , the old French colony aunt wears a pompadour.
Emil's grandmother in Emil and the three twins of Erich Kastner put a letter from Emil's mother in her Pompadour.
In his gloss "Die Familie" (Die Weltbühne, January 12, 1923), Kurt Tucholsky fables about a fictional aunt of Goethe who, if she had existed, would have "taken some Cachou from her pompadour" when the nephew was examined in Weimar and "drove off again offended " would.
In the opening scene of Tolstoy's novel War and Peace , the pregnant Princess Bolkonskaya brings her handicrafts in a "ridikül" to a reception.
Web links
- Anna Johnson, Eri Morita: handbags. The story of a cult object . Könemann Tandem Verlag, Königswinter 2005, ISBN 3-8331-1093-7 .
- Aristocracy Rasche: Ridikül! Fashion in cartoon 1600 to 1900 . Dumont, Cologne 2003, ISBN 3-8321-7388-9 (catalog of the exhibition of the same name from December 5, 2003 to February 15, 2004 in the art library of the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin ).
Individual evidence
- ↑ Kyoto Costume Institute : Fashion . Cologne u. a .: Taschen, n.d., p. 115 and p. 165
- ↑ Center National de Ressources Textuelles et Lexicales (French)