Raffaele Carlesso

Raffaele Carlesso (born September 15, 1908 in Costa di Rovigo , † May 1, 2000 in Pordenone ) was an Italian mountaineer.

Life

From 1932 to 1940 he moved to Veneto to work in the wool mills of Schio and Valdagno . He opened a number of first ascents nearby, especially in the Little Dolomites in the Vicentine Alps and in the Civetta Group . During the Second World War he was sent to Sardinia to run a fabric and blanket factory for the army. He returned to Pordenone in 1946 , where he started a textile trade. He was active as a mountaineer until he was 80 years old. He died in Pordenone at the age of 91.

In 1931 he was appointed an academic member of the Club Alpino Italiano . In 1931 he received the Gold Medal for Achievement in 1935, the San Marco Prize in 1972, the L'Agordino d'Oro in 1987, the Pope Leone I Magno Prize in 1994 and the Club's Gold Badge Alpino Italiano in 1996.

On his 100th birthday, the climbing school in Budoia was named after him.

Alpine career

Equipped with great technique and flexibility in free climbing, he was one of the greatest exponents of Italian alpinism in the golden age of the sixth degree . The twenty years between 1920 and 1940 were marked by rivalry between the Austro-German and Italian mountaineers on the first ascent of the most difficult routes. A shy and humble person, he did not leave a diary or report on his numerous companies. It is therefore not known exactly how many inspections he made. He found his goals mainly in the group of the Carnic Pre-Alps with the peaks of the Cimon dei Furlani , the Cimon del Cavallo , the Col Nudo , the Duranno , the Campanile Pordenone , the Cretòn di Culzei , the Campanile del Rifugio and the Campanile di Val Montanaia and in the small Vicentine Dolomites on Baffelan , Sibelle , Soglio Rosso , Soglio d'Uderle , Campanile of Fontana d'Oro .

In 1934, Bortolo and B. Sandri were the first rope team to climb the south face of the Torre Trieste and opened a route, the difficulty of which eclipsed everything else at the time.

Alpine ventures

• Parete Rossa - Duranno 1929 - first ascent of the south face, 300 m, V.
• Via Soldà-Carlesso - Punta Sibele - 1933 - Direct east face with ML Orsini, 300 m, VII-
• Ostkamin - Soglio d'Uderle - June 4, 1933 - First ascent with T. Casetta e A. Colbertaldo, 250 m, VI-
• Via Carlesso-Menti - Sengio della Sisilla - 1933 - first ascent through the south face with M. Menti, 120 m, VI +, A1
• Diretta Carlesso - Soglio Rosso - July 16, 1933 - first ascent with T. Casetta, 300 m, VI
• Carlesso-Sandri - Torre Trieste - August 7th and 8th 1934 - first ascent with B. Sandri, 700 m, VI + / A2, VIII-
• Carlesso-Casetta - Baffelan - 1935 - first ascent with T. Casetta, 250 m, V +
• Carlesso-Menti - Torre di Valgrande - 1936 - first ascent with M. Menti, 500 m, VI, A2, VIII
• Carlesso route - Campanile di Val Montanaia - 1961 - first ascent, 120 m, VI +

Carlesso was on the road with many well-known climbers of the time, including famous climbers such as Maddalena, Granzotto, Batista Vinatzer , Soldà, Demuth, Soravito, Castiglioni, Tissi, Andrich, Bertoldi, Casetta.

bibliography

• Severino Casara, Al Sole delle Dolomiti , Hoepli, 1947 and 1950
• Aurelio Garobbio, Uomini del Sesto Grado , Baldini & Castoldi, 1963
• Alfonso Bernardi, La Grande Civetta , Zanichelli, 1971
• Varale Messner Rudatis, Sesto Grado , Longanesi e C., 1971
• Tullio Trevisan, 50 anni di Alpinismo pordenonese , Sez.CAI , Pordenone, 1975
• Gianni Pieropan, Storia dell'alpinismo nelle Piccole Dolomiti Vicentine , La Grafica, 1977
• Severino Casara, Il Libro d'Oro delle Dolomiti , Longanesi e C., 1980
• Roberto Barato e Roberto Bianchini, Raffaele Biri Carlesso , Sez.CAI Pordenone, 2008
• Mario Tomadini, Quei magnifici campi di neve - Le origini e la storia dello sci pordenonese , 1924–1941. Società Operaia di Mutuo Soccorso ed Istruzione di Pordenone, Pordenone, 2007.