Amé Gorret

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Amé Gorret

Amé Gorret (born October 25, 1836 in Valtournenche , † November 4, 1907 in Saint-Pierre-en-Châtel-Argent ) was an Italian priest and alpinist from the Aosta Valley . He achieved numerous first ascents, including, together with Jean-Antoine Carrel, the first ascent of the Matterhorn over the Lion Ridge from the Italian side in 1865 .

Life

Amé Gorret was the son of a mountain guide and should also guide tourists. But he saw in the mountains the symbol of a higher idea and therefore embarked on a spiritual career. He received his education in Aosta , but during his studies at the seminary he kept going into the mountains and exploring new routes and taking part in various mountain trips. In 1861 he was ordained a priest . He then worked as a vicar in Champorcher . From 1865 he was in Cogne and Valgrisenche and got the opportunity to try the first ascent of the Matterhorn from the Italian side together with a group around Jean-Antoine Carrel . After the success of the venture, Gorret published a report in the Feuille d'Aoste newspaper . Gorret was then recognized as an alpinist and writer. But soon he felt the need to visit mountains other than his own, so he went to Grenoble and served the French clergy . In 1881 he became pastor of Saint-Martin-de-Clettes , then of Villard-Reymond, and in 1882 he was in Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans . In 1884, however, he had to return to Italy, when the French Ministry of Culture prohibited the clergy from employing foreigners. He was transferred to the parish of Saint-Jacques-d'Ayas and had to stay there for 21 years in poor circumstances. In 1902 he got sick of the eyes and died in 1907 in the Saint-Jaquême Priory in Saint-Pierre-en-Châtel-Argent .

Publications

  • Guide Illustré de la Vallée d'Aoste , F. Casanova, Turin, 1876 (with Claude-Nicolas Bich)
  • Victor-Emmanuel sur les Alpes , F. Casanova, Turin, 1879.

literature

  • Alexis Betemps: Du dernier ours au premier ethnographe: l'abbé Aimé Gorret , in: Le Monde alpin et rhodanien , Volume 31, No. 1–4, Grenoble 2003
  • Enrico Camanni, Cieli di pietra - La vera storia di Amé Gorret , Vivalda editori, Torino, 1997
  • Administration Communale de Valtournenche (ed.): Amé Gorret, Autobiographie et écrits divers , Valtournenche, 1998

First ascents

The information on Gorret's first ascent is based on information in his tour book.

  • In addition to his first ascent of the Matterhorn via the Liongrat, he achieved several other successes:
  • Pic du Retour, 3372 m
  • Col de Tleccio, 3324 m
  • Becca Costazza, 3085 m
  • Torre di Lavina, 3308 m
  • Punta Garin, 3447 m
  • Bec de la Fruidière, 3070 m
  • Grande Rousse, 3608 m

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Charles Gos: Amé Gorret, the bear of the mountains in: The Alps, Les alps, Le alpi , monthly journal of the Swiss Alpine Club, Volume XI, Bern 1935, pp. 140 ff.
  2. ↑ Guido Rey: The Matterhorn , Charles Scribner's Sons , New York 1907, p. 140
personal data
SURNAME Gorret, Amé
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian priest and alpinist
DATE OF BIRTH October 25, 1836
PLACE OF BIRTH Valtournenche
DATE OF DEATH November 4, 1907
Place of death Saint-Pierre-en-Châtel-Argent