Jean-Antoine Carrel
Jean-Antoine Carrel (baptized January 17, 1829 in Valtournenche ; † August 26, 1890 on the Matterhorn ) was an Italian mountain guide . He became known through the first ascent of the Matterhorn on July 17, 1865 from the Italian side and the first ascent of Chimborazo in 1880.
Matterhorn ascent
Carrel had originally undertaken to climb the Matterhorn from the Swiss side with Edward Whymper on July 9 and 10, 1865. However, Carrel had already been in the service of the Italian geologist and engineer Felice Giordano from Turin for a year, who was arriving in Valtournenche at the time . Carrel was embarrassed about this, but the bad weather meant that the ascent planned with Whymper could not take place. A few days later, Carrel decided to run Giordano's company. In the meantime, Whymper and his group had already conquered the Matterhorn over the Hörnligrat.
A few days after Whymper, Carrel and Amé Gorret made their second ascent of the Matterhorn over the Lion Ridge. A few years later, the Carrel brothers and Edward Whymper set out on a joint trip to South America, during which they made a considerable number of first ascents together, including that of Chimborazo in 1880.
On August 26, 1890, Carrel died on the Matterhorn. He set off from Giomein on August 23, 1890 with Carlo Gorret and Leone Sinigaglia to climb the Matterhorn. The rope team came together to the hut on the Cravatte on the first day, but a sudden fall in the weather kept them in the hut for days. Then they had to descend through deep snow. Carrel managed to get his companions safely down to the flatter pastures, where he died of exhaustion.
Carrel's fate has been filmed several times, including a. by Nunzio Malasomma in the silent film Der Kampf ums Matterhorn (1928) based on the factual novel of the same title by Carl Haensel and in 1938 by Luis Trenker under the title Der Berg ruft . Both on the Matterhorn ( Rifugio Jean-Antoine Carrel ) and on the Chimborazo (Refugio Carrel) huts were named after him.
Memorial plaque on Bahnhofstrasse in Zermatt
Cross at the foot of the Matterhorn at the point where he died
Web links
- Personal folder on Jean Antoine, Jean Joseph & Luigi Carrel (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Abbé Amé Gorret: Report of the first Matterhorn ascent from the Italian side , in Die Alpen, Les alpes, Le alpi , monthly of the Swiss Alpine Club, Volume XI, Bern 1935, p. 94 ff.
- ↑ Giuseppe Mazotti: The Book of the Matterhorn. Union Deutsche Verlagsgesellschaft, Berlin, 1942, p. 71.
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Carrel, Jean-Antoine |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Italian mountain guide |
| DATE OF BIRTH | baptized January 17, 1829 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Valtournenche |
| DATE OF DEATH | August 26, 1890 |
| Place of death | Matterhorn |