Almond broth

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Overturned almond broth

Blancmange (including Blanc-manger [ blãmãʒe ], French for white feed ) is a dessert made of crushed almonds , sugar and gelatin . It is essentially a jelly made from sweetened almond milk ; In more recent recipes, whipped cream is also added . Almond broth can also be prepared in many flavors, for example with pureed strawberries or raspberries , coffee , chocolate orPistachios .

A completely different dish is the “English Blanc-Manger” ( English blancmange ), which is occasionally listed as a variant - this is milk stiffened with corn starch, sweetened, optionally flavored, and contains neither almonds nor gelatine.

preparation

In his almond soup recipe, Auguste Escoffier first describes the preparation of the almond milk: Take 500 g sweet almonds and 4–5 bitter almonds. The almonds are watered and cleaned, then crushed, adding 0.8 liters of water in spoons. The mass is pressed through a cloth while turning, so that about 0.7 l almond milk is produced. It continues with the description of the preparation of the almond broth: 200 g of sugar are dissolved in the almond milk. Then you warm up part of the syrup, dissolve 30 g of gelatin in it and add it to the almond milk syrup. The mass is then passed through a muslin cloth , filled into a mold, cooled and turned over.

history

Cultural historians believe it is possible that the dish was originally adopted from Arabic cuisine , which featured a dish called isfidhabaj (white food). Most of the recipes for this apparently did not contain almond milk, instead they sometimes contained finely chopped or crushed chicken breast. It is a characteristic of Arabic cuisine to prepare meat dishes sweetly.

First page from the buoch of guoter spîse , around 1350. The cited almond soup recipe is the lower one in the right column.

Almond broth has been known in Europe since the Middle Ages . Recipes for it have been handed down from various European countries since the 14th century. For example, the third recipe in the buoch of guoter spîse , the oldest German-language cookbook (written around 1350), is the following recipe for blanc-manger ( blamenser ):

Wilt you make a disgrace. How to make a fool One should use zigenin milich. and make almond a halp phunt. a virdunc ryses sol man stozzen zu mele. and put it in the milk cold. and nim a hune's breast, which should be shown. and sol die dor in. and a pure smaltz sol man dor in do. and let ez dor boil inside. and give it in genuc. and take back ez denne. and nim stozzen violn, and toss the dor in. and a fourdunc sugar. do one in and give up. So mac man also in the vasten make a blame from a hechede.

- Book of good food . ( wikisource.org ).

The 76th and 77th recipes in the book also deal with recipes for almond broth.

"White food" was an upscale dish of the European nobility . It is mentioned in the Canterbury Tales prologue, among others . It was originally made both sweet and savory with rice , meat, poultry and fish. The most important ingredients were milk or almond milk, sugar, chicken or fish, and often rice. Since gelatine was not used at that time, other collagen-containing binders such as isinglass or boiled calf's feet were used. Blanc-Manger was a main course.

In the 18th century, almond broth was a "side dish" in German cuisine, so not a dessert. The Economic Encyclopedia by Johann Georg Krünitz describes Blanc manger as “an almond soup made with meat broth; or a white jelly or jelly made from a strong meat broth, or with juice from capons , or from blanched calf's feet etc. with milk or chopped almonds and an addition of sugar and spices . ”In the meantime, gelatine was also used for preparation.

Later, the term Blanc-Manger was narrowed to the dessert, which was meanwhile also made with corn starch or arrowroot flour. In the 17th century in England, almond broth developed into a meatless pudding that was prepared with cream, eggs and later with gelatine.

Meyer's Konversationslexikon describes the dish at the end of the 19th century as " jelly made from cream, almond milk etc. with isinglass with the addition of vanilla or other spices."

Blanc-Manger has lost its importance compared to other desserts since the beginning of the 20th century. As early as 1907, Escoffier complained that Blanc-Manger is “only rarely made today”, although it is one of the best desserts.

Tavuk Göğsü

Distribution and Etymology

The word Blanc-Manger comes from the old French blanc mangier . In modern English scientific usage, the term whitedish also established itself for desserts . In the Middle Ages, there were various regional names for Blanc-Manger :

  • English: blancmanger , blankmanger , blank maunger , blomanger , blamang
  • Catalan: menjar blanch , menjar blanc , menjablanc
  • Portuguese: manjar branco
  • Italian: mangiare bianco , biancomangiare , blanmangieri , bramangere
  • spanish: manjar blanco
  • dutch and flemish: blanc mengier
  • German: blamensir
  • Latin: albus cibus , esus albus

A dish similar to the Blanc Manger , which is still prepared with chicken in Turkey today, is Tavuk Göğsü . In Italy, the Blanc-Manger, known today as Biancomangiare , is a typical dessert, especially in Sicily , Sardinia ( papai-biancu ) and in the Aosta Valley .

variants

Almond broth can be modified in many flavors by adding pureed fruits, chocolate, coffee, liqueur and other flavoring ingredients; the almonds can also be replaced in whole or in part by hazelnuts or pistachios. If the basic preparation is actually still a pure white color, this of course often no longer applies to the variants. Nevertheless, they are also called Blancs-Mangers; the French name is no longer taken literally - even the colorful banded almond broth is called blanc-manger rubané in French .

See also

literature

  • Alan Davidson: The Oxford Companion to Food. 2nd Edition. Oxford 2006, article Blancmange , p. 82.
  • Terence Scully: The Art of Cookery in the Middle Ages. 1995, ISBN 0-85115-611-8 , p. 208.
  • Melitta Weiss Adamson (ed.): Food in the Middle Ages: A Book of Essays. 1995, ISBN 0-8153-1345-4 .

Web links

Commons : Blancmange  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

swell

  1. ^ A b c F. Jürgen Herrmann (Ed.): Herings Lexicon of the Kitchen . 25th, revised edition. Pfanneberg, Haan-Gruiten 2012, ISBN 978-3-8057-0663-6 .
  2. a b c d e Auguste Escoffier: culinary art guide. A handbook and reference book of modern French cuisine and fine international cuisine . Authorized translation of the second French edition. Publishing house of the international association of cooks, Frankfurt 1910, p. 776–778 ( SLUB Dresden - French: Le guide culinaire. Aide mémoire de cuisine pratique . Translated by Adolf Anker, Alexander Mathis, Emil Blankenburg, MC Banzer).
  3. a b René Kramer (Ed.): The great international confectionery book. Pastries, confectionery, desserts, ice cream, snacks, condiments . Pröpster, Kempten 1970.
  4. ^ Alan Davidson: The Oxford Companion to Food . Ed .: Tom Jaine. 2nd Edition. Oxford University Press, Oxford 2006, ISBN 0-19-280681-5 , keyword blancmange , p. 82 (English).
  5. Tavuk Göğsü Kazandibi; see: Nevin Halıcı: The Turkish Cookbook. Weltbild Verlag, Augsburg, 1995. p. 148. ISBN 3893501991
  6. Economic Encyclopedia von Krünitz, article Blanc-manger .
  7. Meyers Konversationslexikon, approx. 1895, article Blanc-manger .
  8. ^ Scully, Terence (1995), The Art of Cookery in the Middle Ages. ISBN 0-85115-611-8 , p. 208.
  9. Ministero delle politiche agricole: Quattordicesima revisione dell'elenco dei prodotti agroalimentari tradizionali (List of traditional Italian agricultural products)