Bouillabaisse

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Bouillabaisse with bread slices, rouille and fish served separately

Bouillabaisse [ bujaˈbɛːs ] is a Provencal fish dish that, depending on how it is prepared , is served as a two-course dish of fish soup and cooked fish with seafood or as a rich stew . The term is also used synonymously for "Provencal fish soup" and the Marseille preparation variant.

preparation

Fish for the bouillabaisse in the port of Marseille
Various filleted Mediterranean fish

The use of a large number of fish species native to the Mediterranean is important for the taste. Typical are the great red and brown scorpionfish , Johns fish , gurnards , monkfish , conger eel , red mullet , merlan and sea ​​wolves or various types of perch such as sea ​​bass . Seafood used is, for example, lobster , Norway lobster , shrimp or mussels .

Garlic, onions, tomatoes, fennel, leek as soup vegetables and often also potatoes

For the preparation, the fish are cleaned, deboned, cut into larger pieces and sorted according to firm and soft-fleshed types and sizes and thus according to cooking time. First, onions, garlic, diced tomatoes and fennel are slowly steamed in mostly plenty of olive oil. Sometimes carrots are also used. It is seasoned with table salt, pepper, thyme , parsley, real bay leaf , a piece of orange peel and occasionally with cloves. Often, potato slices are also added to improve the binding, which are later used as a side dish. When the onions and fennel are done, saffron and orange peel are added and it is topped off with white wine, pastis or wormwood. Then the fish and seafood with the longest cooking time are added. These are now covered with enough already heated water or better fish stock . Then the remaining fish and seafood are added one after the other, depending on the cooking time. The firm fish is cooked at the same time, the soft fish such as Peter’s fish, red mullet or Merlan are added later and everything is cooked completely.

Soup and fish are often served separately in upscale kitchens

For serving, fish, seafood and, if necessary, the potato slices are arranged on a preheated platter. The soup is now passed through and then filled into plates lined with white bread slices. In Marseille, a special bread called marette is used for this. Auguste Escoffier comments on this : “In Marseilles, people use long, slim white bread for the slices of bread, which is called marette and is best suited for this purpose; it must be fresh. For this dish you should neither toast, roast nor bake the bread slices. ”In other variations, the white bread slices placed in the soup plate are toasted in the oven ( croutons ). Fish and soup are usually served separately in gastronomy: first the soup, then fish and seafood; sometimes the selected fish are also scooped with the bouillabaisse. In addition, baguette and rouille , a mayonnaise-like sharp garlic sauce, served.

history

There was a dragon head soup already in antiquity, it is one of the traditions of the Mediterranean region. The first written mention of such a soup is from Pliny the Elder . According to Raymond Oliver's recipe research , the rules for bouillabaisse as we know it today go back to the 16th century: “[...] and their new cradle was Marseille, perhaps even the Catalan district, because they deserve it It's an honor for introducing saffron. ”It is believed that fishermen originally made the soup with seawater from small fish and scraps of fish left over from the market. Cultural historians can use written sources to prove that the bouillabaisse that is known today in fine dining and restaurants deviates from the simple basic recipe.

In 1785 the term “Bouilhe-Baisso” appeared for the first time in the Provencal dictionary Dictionnaire de la Provence et du Comté-Venaissin : “Bouilhe-Baisso, expression of the fishermen's language, a kind of ragout made by boiling fish in seawater. They say bouilhe-baisso because the pot is removed from the fire as soon as it boils ( French bout ) ( French abaissé ). ”The oldest known recipe for such a fish soup comes from the year 1790 by Jourdan le Cointe from his book La cuisine de santé and describes a soup traditionally prepared by fishermen that already contained many of the ingredients of today's bouillabaisse. It was known as the “Matelotte du Poissonier”, and the tomatoes, fennel and leeks were still missing. The first recipe for a “Bouil-Abaisse à la Marseillaise” appeared in Le cuisinier Durand in 1830 and contained European sea bass and lobster , high-quality and expensive ingredients that were not in the original fish soup. In the past, the term “bouillabaisse” was apparently not limited to a special fish dish, because old cookbooks from Provence have recipes with this title that do not contain any fish.

Since the 19th century there have been numerous very different variants of preparation, which is why Escoffier judged in 1914: “As in many other cases, views and customs are still divided when it comes to the preparation of this fish dish.” Today bouillabaisse is also canned available in the stores.

literature

  • Jean-Baptiste Reboul: La Cuisinière provençale . Marseille 1910 (reprinted 1989), pp. 85-87
  • Raymond Oliver: The Bouillabaisse, in: ders .: France table . Munich 1969, pp. 158-185
  • Article Bouillabaisse, in: Larousse Gastronomique . Munich 2009, p. 101
  • Article Bouillabaisse, in: Alan Davidson: The Oxford Companion to Food . 3rd ed. Oxford 2014, p. 97

Web links

Commons : Bouillabaisse  - collection of images
Wiktionary: Bouillabaisse  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Article Bouillabaisse , in: Larousse Gastronomique , Munich 2009, p. 101; F. Jürgen Herrmann (Ed.): Herings Lexikon der Küche , Haan-Gruiten, 25th edition 2012, pp. 194–195; Alan Davidson: The Oxford Companion to Food , 3rd ed. Oxford 2014, p. 97; Jean-Baptiste Reboul: La Cuisinière provençale , Marseille 1910 (reprint 1989), p. 85
  2. ^ Article Bouillabaisse , in: Larousse Gastronomique , Munich 2009, p. 101; F. Jürgen Herrmann (Ed.): Herings Lexikon der Küche, Haan-Gruiten, 25th edition 2012, pp. 194–195
  3. ↑ Article Bouillabaisse , in: Larousse Gastronomique , Munich 2009, p. 101
  4. ↑ Auguste Escoffier: Kochkunst-Führer , Frankfurt 1914, p. 316
  5. ^ Article Bouillabaisse , in: Hans-Joachim Rose: Die Küchenbibel , Wiesbaden 2015, p. 132; Larousse Gastronomique , Munich 2009, p. 101
  6. ↑ Article Bouillabaisse , in: Hans-Joachim Rose: Die Küchenbibel , Wiesbaden 2015, p. 132
  7. ↑ Raymond Oliver: The Bouillabaisse , in: ders .: France tafelt . Munich 1969, pp. 164-166
  8. ↑ Bouillabaisse article , in: Alan Davidson: The Oxford Companion to Food , 3rd ed. Oxford 2014, p. 97
  9. ^ Claude François Achard: Dictionnaire de la Provence et du Comté-Venaissin . Tome secondo. J. Mossy, Marseille 1785, p. 109
  10. ↑ Jourdan le Cointe: La cuisine de santé . Briand, Paris 1790, p. 374; Article Bouillabaisse , in: Alan Davidson: The Oxford Companion to Food , 3rd ed. Oxford 2014, p. 97
  11. ^ Carles Durand, cuisinier à Nîmes: Le cuisinier Durand . P. Durand-Belle, Nîmes 1830, pp. 350-351
  12. ↑ Bouillabaisse article , in: Alan Davidson: The Oxford Companion to Food , 3rd ed. Oxford 2014, p. 97; in detail on the history of the recipe and the different variants of preparation Raymond Oliver: Die Bouillabaisse , in: ders .: France tafelt . Munich 1969, pp. 158-185
  13. ↑ Auguste Escoffier: Kochkunst-Führer , Frankfurt 1914, p. 316
  14. ↑ Erhard Gorys: Das neue Küchenlexikon , Munich 1994, p. 74