Department design

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Department design
founding May 1, 1867
Sponsorship state
place Hamburg
Dean Dorothea Wenzel
Students 1,392
Employee 82
including professors 35
Website design.haw-hamburg.de

The Department of Design is part of the Faculty of Design, Media and Information (DMI) of the Hamburg University of Applied Sciences .

history

In 1867, on the initiative of Emilie Wüstenfeld, the “vocational school for girls” was founded. Lessons at the vocational school began with 36 students, including subjects such as German, business, arithmetic, bookkeeping, natural science, freehand drawing, pattern drawing, sewing and tailoring.

After a temporary stay in Burstah 16 in 1868, the “Gewerbeschule für Mädchen” (trade school for girls) moved to a newly constructed building in Brennerstrasse 77, at the corner of Stiftstrasse (district: St. Georg ). Over time, trading courses were set up and the training of specialist teachers and accountants as well as the professional training of model draughtsmen began. As a result, more and more new classes and training courses were set up. The name of the vocational school was supplemented by the addition " Industrial school for older women, educational institution for kindergarten teachers, model draftsmen, specialist teachers, cooking school, commercial apprenticeship".
The school was located in the Brennerstrasse 77 building for 70 years. During this time, several name changes and restructuring of the school took place. On April 1, 1921, the state, as a state school for women's professions, placed the school under the administration of the vocational school authority. That year the school had 1601 students. Due to rationalizing measures by the state, the number of students fell to 1,400 in the following years. The reasons for this were dismantling measures such as the replacement of the seminar for drawing teachers, the closure of the seminar for business teachers and the dissolution of four advanced training classes.

Kläre Baumert headed the “State School for Women's Professions” until 1934, when Erna von Kunowski took over from her position. From November 1936, the school functioned as a craft school under the title "Crafts School at the State School for Women's Professions / Higher Technical School for Tailors, Linen Tailors and Plaster". During the time of Erna von Kunowski, the politics of the National Socialists resulted in profound restructuring of the school. Changes were made to the range of courses, so that from 1936/37 the state school for women's professions had an offer of apprentice classes for tailoring and classes for fashion drawing, tailoring, fashion graphics, fabric sample design, art embroidery, dressmakers and costume designers. During this time, working groups consisting of pupils from the master school designed traveling dresses for girls and young girls ( Bund Deutscher Mädel ) for presentation in a fashion show in November 1938. A few months earlier, the school received a certificate of honor for participating in the first international Craftsmen exhibition in Berlin. On February 6, 1941, three years after the application for a name change, the school was officially declared a “Master School for Fashion, State School for Ladies Tailoring, Vocational School for Fashion Graphics, Theater Costume Design and Textile Handicraft”.

The master school for fashion was destroyed in the bombing of the Hamburg district of St. Georg on July 30, 1943. The entire stock of materials and the entire school inventory were destroyed. The school had to close in the summer of 1944 because of the consequences of the total war . In 1945, the management of the master school for fashion was taken over again by Kläre Baumert. After initial location difficulties, the school was able to resume its activities in the school building at Curschmannstrasse 39 in April 1946.

In 1950 the master school was assigned the building at Armgartstrasse 54, into which it moved in 1951, despite reconstruction work that had not yet been completed. In the year of moving in, the school's housekeeping department was outsourced to the Altona women's technical college. The master school concentrated on the areas of fashion, textiles, clothing and graphics. In 1956 Prof. Maria May became director of the master school. In October 1957 the 90th birthday of the master school (based on the trade school for girls founded in 1867) was celebrated. At that time, 42 lecturers were teaching 700 students and the Hamburger Abendblatt of September 26, 1957 stated that "the Hamburg Master School has overtaken its sisters in Munich and Frankfurt in terms of size and performance".

In 1961 the school was renamed the “Master School for Fashion, Craft School for Textile, Advertising and Graphics of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg”. In the year Maria May was replaced by the art teacher Willy Drews-Bernstein, another name change took place. From March 1965 the school was called “Werkkunstschule and master school for fashion of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg”. In 1967 it was named "Werkkunstschule der Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg". In 1970 the school became part of the Hamburg University of Applied Sciences as a design department. The department provided the three courses of study illustration / communication design, textile, fashion, costume design and clothing technology. In 1975 60 lecturers looked after 600 students here. In 2004, the design department was incorporated into the newly founded “Design, Media and Information” faculty of the Hamburg University of Applied Sciences as the “Design Department”.

In 2016, during renovation work in the entrance area, on both sides of the entrance stairs, behind pin boards, two mosaics by the artist Annette Caspar were found and exposed.

Public appearances (selection)

  • 1958 - Hamburg, Trostbrücke: Under the name “Traumboot der Mode”, the school staged a large costume ball in the Patriotic Society
  • 1960 - Indian collection of the master school of fashion
  • 1964 - Model show at the reception of the Prime Minister's Conference
  • 1965 - Exhibition "You and Your World"
  • 1967 - Vienna, Schloss Hetzendorf: Schoolgirls showed model dresses at the fashion meeting with the Vienna fashion school
  • 1986 - Hamburg, Armgartstrasse: female students (5-6th semesters), under the direction of Carla Maria Untermann, showed their models on the topic of Russian folklore. The collection ran under the name "Impulse from Russia". The fashion show was also shown at the “Interstoff” international fabric fair in Frankfurt
  • 1989 - Hamburg: Armgartstrasse: Students under the direction of Alexandra Albrand showed their "Hamburg shirt", which was to be called "Cutty". One sponsor: the “Cutty Sark” whiskey brand.
  • 1989 - Hamburg, Rathausmarkt: Students (8-10th semesters) under the direction of Alexandra Albrand, showed fashion for seniors
  • 1990 - Hamburg, University of Music at Harvestehuder Weg 12: fashion show by students with the title: "Time of the Colorful Birds"
  • 1990 - Hamburg, Theater for Music and Performing Arts, Harvestehuder Weg 12: The school's fashion designers worked on the “Chaos Couture” project and organized a fashion show
  • 1991 - As part of the exhibition "Viola - Shiny Pieces of Historical Fashions", students of fashion design (Department of Design) showed interpretations of historical costumes
  • 1992 - Hamburg, Armgartstrasse: Exhibition under the name "Vamos a ver". The exhibition included works by the students inspired by Spanish art

Additional:

Name changes

  • 1867: vocational school for girls
  • 1921: State school for women's professions
  • 1936: Crafts school at the state school for women's professions / Higher technical school for tailors, laundry tailors and plastering
  • 1941: Master School for Fashion, State School for Ladies Tailoring, Vocational School for Fashion Graphics, Theater Costume Design and Textile Handicraft
  • 1961: Master School for Fashion, Craft School for Textiles, Advertising and Graphics of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg
  • 1965: Werkkunstschule and master school for fashion in the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg
  • 1967: Werkkunstschule of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg
  • 1970: Hamburg University of Applied Sciences - design department
  • 2004: Department Design of the Faculty of Design, Media and Information (DMI) at the University of Applied Sciences Hamburg

courses

The courses of study and vocational training at the school have undergone a slow change from manual to academic training since the mid-1930s to the present day. Until 1951 there was a branch of housekeeping in addition to the manual sector (e.g. dressmakers, fashion graphics, fashion drawing and tailoring), which was then passed on to the Altona women’s house management school. From 1955 on, the students were able to recognize their talents and inclinations in a basic class, deepen them in the study class, in order to qualify for a subject such as fashion photography, pattern weaving or textile design and fabric printing. With the requirement of a one-year industrial apprenticeship, training for the clothing industry or the ladies' tailoring trade was possible, which could then be supplemented by a master class or specialist class. In order to survive in the course of the economic changes in the 1960s, the school expanded its range of design. However, so that appropriate artistic training could be offered, the facility had to be converted from the “master school” into a “craft art school”. There were also subjects such as illustration and communication design.

In 1970 the Werkkunstschule was incorporated into the Hamburg University of Applied Sciences as the design department. With this, the craft training classes disappeared, with the exception of the dressmaker training, which was offered until the 1980s. The branch of costume design, originally an optional subject in fashion design, became an independent course of study. The courses that were developed during this time are still largely in existence today. Since 2005, the bachelor's degree programs have been gradually introduced in the departments, and the diploma degree programs are expiring accordingly.

The standard period of study for today's bachelor's degree programs is seven semesters. The following courses are offered at the Department of Design (as of January 2008):

  • Illustration and Communication Design (Bachelor)
  • Textile, fashion and costume design (Bachelor)
  • Clothing - Technology and Management (Bachelor)

Studying at the Department of Design requires an artistic entrance examination in two parts. The first application phase consists of preparing a portfolio that contains your own work such as drawings, colored representations or photographs. If the collection of the portfolio is rated as sufficient, the selected candidates receive their admission to an aptitude test at the university. Within this aptitude test, three artistic-creative and one theoretical-written exams must be taken.

Personalities (selection)

Directorate / Administration

  • Baumert, clarity
  • Birgfeld, Detlef
  • Drews-Bernstein, Willy
  • Kunowski, Erna von

Graduates

  • Alexandra (Doris Nefedov), singer
  • Baum, Alexandra
  • Bernstiel-Munsche, Heidi
  • Blue, Alyosha
  • Angelica Blechschmidt
  • Bührle-Nowikowa, Julia (formerly Schmunk), freelance artist,
    stage and costume designer, illustrator
  • Doris Cordes-Vollert , artist and author
  • Dettmann, Helene
  • Fischer, Andrea, costume designer
  • Gardener, Sabine
  • Giese, Doris-Anette
  • González Espíndola, Claudia, costume designer
  • Pit, Monika
  • Hagemeier, Till, designer
  • Hahn, Tina
  • Hein, Sybille - illustrator, author and designer
  • Janßen-Schadwill, Astrid

literature

  • Master School for Fashion (Ed.): 1867-1957: Master School for Fashion of the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg, School for Design of the Textile and Clothing Industry. Hamburg: Petermann, 1957
  • Münchner Stadtmuseum (Ed.): Fashion for Germany: 50 years of the master school for fashion, Munich: 1931-1981. Catalog for the exhibition in the Munich City Museum, April 20, 1981. Munich: Lipp, 1981
  • Research center for contemporary history in Hamburg (ed.): Hamburg in the "Third Reich". Göttingen: Wallstein, 2005. - ISBN 3-89244-903-1
  • Hamburger Tageblatt (State and University Library Hamburg): National Socialist German Workers' Party. (Ed.): Hamburger Tageblatt: Newspaper of the National Socialist German Workers' Party. Hamburg: Hamburger Tageblatt, 1933–1944
  • Klessmann, Eckart: History of the City of Hamburg. 7th ext. and updated edition. Hamburg: Hoffmann and Campe, 1994. - ISBN 3-455-08803-1
  • Krieger, Martin: History of Hamburg. Orig. Munich: Beck, 2006 (Beck series). - ISBN 3-406-53595-X
  • The celebration of the inauguration of the new school building of the vocational school for girls in Hamburg , in: Jenny Hirsch (ed.): Der Frauen-Anwalt , 4th year (1873–1874), Elwin Staude, Berlin 1874, p. 319ff. Digitizedhttp: //vorlage_digitalisat.test/1%3D~GB%3D-BYZAAAAYAAJ~IA%3D~MDZ%3D%0A~SZ%3DRA1-PA319~ double-sided%3D~LT%3D~PUR%3D

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. Jenny Hirsch (ed.): Der Frauen-Anwalt , 1. Jg., Otto Löwenstein, Berlin 1871, p. 47 digitizedhttp: //vorlage_digitalisat.test/1%3D~GB%3DcxYZAAAAYAAJ~IA%3D~MDZ%3D%0A~SZ%3DPA47~ double-sided%3D~LT%3D~PUR%3D
  2. The addition "Bei den Pumpen 37" is a street name with house number 37. After 1900 the name was shortened to "Pumps". This is how the address "Pumps 37" came about in some later publications.
  3. Rediscovered mosaics in the entrance area of ​​Armgartstrasse (with a picture of a staircase), April 26, 2016, on haw-hamburg.de
  4. Illustration of the other side of the stairs (Figure 5) on kulturkarte.de