Designer

Patroneur or pattern designer and pattern maker , also Dessinateur was a professional of the textile processing industry . It is a former training occupation.

Stehli silk binding cartridge

Cartridge clamped on card punching machine, Museum of Industrial Culture Neuthal

activity

The cartridge operator creates pattern drawings for fabrics and braids. He converts the fabric sample draft of the sample designer into a kind of technical drawing on pre-printed sample paper, the so-called cartridge . A schematic representation of the textile pattern or mesh is created on the cartridge paper , which is divided into squares. The fabric sample design is dissolved into individual dots of color on the cartridge paper. In the past, the cartridge was converted from the bat on the card punching machine into a wide perforated band , which served as the basis for machine production on the jacquard loom . The jacquard pattern is a weaving technique that enables a significant expansion of the design of woven and knitted fabrics. Today, such designs are usually made with the help of special computer programs.

Jacquard machine with perforated tape

Industries and work areas

weaving

In the design departments of cotton weaving mills, silk weaving mills (e.g. fabric samples of ties), filament yarn weaving mill .

At the beginning of the creation of a woven jacquard pattern is the designer who creates a design on paper. This design was projected onto cartridge paper by means of a magnifying device, which was selected as proportion paper depending on the ratio to the longitudinal thread (warp) and weft (transverse thread). The cartridge operator then filled in the individual “little houses” with the appropriate color in order to indicate the intersection of threads in the fabric. The whole binding technique is very complicated, as there are unlimited possibilities, depending on the quality and design, that the cartridge owner had to draw in. When the cartridge was finished, the liseur clamped it into the dactiliseuse (machine for punching the jacquard cards) and the liseur (also called card beater ) made the punched cards that were used to control the jacquard machine . If the deck of cards was inserted into the jacquard machine, the predetermined pattern could be woven automatically with the loom.

Today's process is much less complex, since apart from the idea of the design, practically everything is implemented using electronic processing.

Other textile industry ( ropes , carpets, nonwovens )

Ribbon weaving and braiding (embroidery companies and embroidery studios), manufacture of carpets (design department in companies in the tufting industry)

Knitting and warp knitting

Manufacture of knitted and knitted finished products (design department in hosiery factories), manufacture of knitted and knitted fabrics (design department in knitting factories)

Textile finishing

Textile printing atelier in textile finishing companies and in multi-level companies in the textile industry

Other business services

Ateliers for textile, jewelry, furniture design, ateliers for textile design samples

Pattern drawing schools

Pattern drawing schools, which trained pattern draftsmen or design engineers, existed in places with an extensive textile industry, mostly in connection with large factories for fabric weaving and tapestry manufacturers. In England, the School of Design (London, Somerset House ) had existed since 1847 as the central institution for draftsmen, around which branch schools in the provinces were grouped.

Germany

The profession was recognized on November 4, 1949 and canceled on August 1, 1978. The profession of pattern draftsman and patroneur was replaced by the successor profession of textile pattern designer with specializations (valid until August 1, 1998).

Switzerland

The textile draftsman was a federally recognized professional title. The vocational training lasted three years and ended with a final apprenticeship examination.

Web links

Individual evidence

↑ Decree of the Federal Minister of Economics for the recognition of the apprenticeship as a draftsman and patron of November 4, 1949 (BWMBl. No. 3/49, p. 23) Source: 1949 (BWMBl. No. 3/49, p. 23).
^ Regulations on training and the final apprenticeship examination from December 15, 1988, Federal Office for Industry, Commerce and Labor.

[1] Decree of the Federal Minister of Economics for the recognition of the apprenticeship as a draftsman and patron of November 4, 1949 (BWMBl. No. 3/49, p. 23) Source: 1949 (BWMBl. No. 3/49, p. 23).

[2] Regulations on training and the final apprenticeship examination from December 15, 1988, Federal Office for Industry, Commerce and Labor.