Hansruedi von Gunten
Hansruedi von Gunten (* 1928 in Bern ) is a Swiss chemist and mountaineer. Together with Dölf Reist , he achieved the third ascent of Mount Everest on May 24, 1956 .
Life
Von Gunten graduated from the municipal high school in Bern (high school diploma in 1948), studied chemistry (major), physics and geology (minor) at the University of Bern , and from 1954 to 1956 did his doctorate at the physics institute there under FG Houtermans on age determinations of Congolese minerals and radioactive lead chlorides (Cotunnites) from Vesuvius . He turned down a call to the Johannes Gutenberg University in Mainz. From 1970 until his retirement in 1993 he was a full professor of radiochemistry . He supervised numerous diploma and doctoral students.
Von Gunten spent two sabbaticals in 1957 and 1966 at the Argonne National Laboratory near Chicago, USA, and one each at the Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory in Berkeley, California USA (1980) and in Sydney, Australia (1990).
More than 150 publications in renowned journals resulted from these activities.
Von Gunten has numerous peaks in the Alps on z. Some difficult routes (including the north face of the Aiguille du Plan) conquered. In 1953 he took part in a geological research expedition in East Greenland (first ascent of Shackletons-Bjerg, together with John Haller and Wolfgang Diehl on August 2nd). He climbed volcanoes in Mexico, Ecuador, New Zealand and Japan.
In 1956 von Gunten became a member of the Swiss Mount Everest-Lhotse Expedition , where he was jointly responsible for food and catering. On April 6, 1956, in the Khumbu area, together with the Sherpas Lobsang and Gyalsen, he managed the first ascent of the now often visited Island Peak. Von Gunten reached the summit of Mount Everest together with the photographer Dölf Reist as the second rope team on this expedition, one day after the ascent by Jürg Marmet and Ernst Schmied . He spent 2 hours on the summit, including an hour without supplemental oxygen. He is the only surviving participant on this expedition. His summit day on Mount Everest is the furthest past of all still living climbers (as of spring 2016) (1)
He is a member of the Swiss Alpine Club SAC and an honorary member of the Academic Alpine Club Bern AACB.
Von Gunten is the father of a son and three daughters.
Web links
- Literature by and about Hansruedi von Gunten in the catalog of the German National Library
- Portrait on sfar-evev06.ch ( Memento from November 19, 2007 in the Internet Archive )
Individual evidence
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Gunten, Hansruedi from |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Swiss chemist and mountaineer |
| DATE OF BIRTH | 1928 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Bern |