Juerg Marmet
Jürg Marmet (born September 14, 1927 ; † March 8, 2013 in Allschwil ) was a Swiss mountaineer , mountain guide and chemist .
Life
On May 23, 1956, Jürg Marmet and Ernst Schmied made the second ascent of Mount Everest . Both were the first Swiss to climb the highest mountain on earth.
Marmet studied chemistry at the ETH and graduated with a dissertation on human toxicology. Among other things, he was director of the agricultural chemistry division at Hoffmann-La Roche in Basel . He acquired the Swiss mountain guide license and climbed numerous peaks in the Alps.
From 1952 to 1958 he was a parachute and mountain rescuer with the Swiss Air Rescue , trained with the Royal Air Force .
As a scientist and mountain guide, he took part in the Baffin Island Expedition of the Arctic Institute of North America in 1953 , where he and his companions made seven first ascents, including Mount Asgard (2011 m) and Tête Blanche (2156 m) on July 13, 1953 , highest mountain on the Cumberland Peninsula.
In 1956 he was a member of the Swiss Everest Lhotse expedition, where he was responsible for the oxygen equipment.
In 1960 a scientific expedition followed to Axel Island west of Greenland .
Marmet was President of the King Albert I. Memorial Foundation until 2003 , then President and later Honorary President of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research for ten years .
Marmet was married and had three children. He retired in 1992 and lived in Allschwil . He died in March 2013 at the age of 85 after a long illness.
literature
- Daniel Anker : Jürg Marmet: From Everest to Tamaro . In: Uomini, storie, montagne. 100 anni di immagini e testimonianza alpine. Bellinzona 2004.
- Albert Eggler: Summit above the clouds - Lhotse and Everest . Zurich 1956.
- Jürg Marmet: Cumberland - A dreamland for mountaineers . In: Mountains of the World, Volume 9, 1954.
- Audrey Salkeld: World Mountaineering . London 1998 (over Mount Asgard).
Web links
- Documentary Swiss Mount Everest Expedition by Condor Films
- Grand old man of Swiss alpinism. On the death of Jürg Marmet. In: Neue Zürcher Zeitung from March 14, 2013
- Daniel Foppa: Swiss Everest pioneer Jürg Marmet is dead. In: Tages-Anzeiger from March 13, 2013
- Oswald Oelz : As one of the first on the roof of the world. Obituary in the Neue Zürcher Zeitung , April 5, 2013, p. 54
Individual evidence
- ↑ Swiss Mount Everest conqueror Jürg Marmet dies. In: Neue Zürcher Zeitung / sda, accessed on June 20, 2014
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Marmet, Juerg |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Swiss mountaineer |
| DATE OF BIRTH | September 14, 1927 |
| DATE OF DEATH | March 8, 2013 |
| Place of death | Allschwil |