Hozomeen Mountain

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Hozomeen Mountain, North Peak
Hozomeen Mountain.jpg
height 2460  m (North American Vertical Date of 1988)
location Whatcom County , Washington , USA
Mountains Northern Cascade Range
Notch height 1198 m
Coordinates 48 ° 58 '56 "  N , 121 ° 0' 43"  W Coordinates: 48 ° 58 '56 "  N , 121 ° 0' 43"  W.
Hozomeen Mountain (Washington)
Hozomeen Mountain
First ascent September 6, 1904 by Sledge Tatum and George E. Loudon Jr.
Normal way Snow and rock climbing, difficulty level 4 ( YDS )
f6
pd5
fd2
View from Hozomeen Lake

The Hozomeen Mountain is a mountain with a double summit on the east side of Ross Lake in the North Cascades of the US state of Washington . Despite its moderate absolute height, it is most remarkable because of the steeply sloping walls on both peaks.

history

The name "Hozomeen" is derived from the Salish , a geographically widespread language group of indigenous peoples in today's British Columbia and northern Washington. The name appeared for the first time on a sketchy map that was made for the first surveyors of today's border between Canada and the United States at the 49th parallel about 1857-1860, and which called the mountain with this name. The map was made by Thiusoloc, one of the Salish guides of surveyor and topographer Henry Custer; like other place and field names noted on the map, it is distinguished in Salish. According to Annie York, a native speaker of the Salish, "Hozomeen" means "sharp" or "like a sharp knife". It connects the name of the mountain with the approximately 9,000 year old tradition of the natives of the use of the Hozomeen flint, from which a number of utensils and hunting implements were made.

Hozomeen North Peak

The main summit was first climbed on September 6, 1904 by Sledge Tatum and George E. Loudon Jr. of the Boundary Survey from the northeast. There are also other ascent routes via the South Ridge (south ridge) and the Southwest Buttress (southwest pillar). The North Peak of Hozomeen Mountain is Washington's fourth steepest peak with a mean angle of 38.86 °.

Hozomeen South Peak

South Peak, 8,003 ft (2,439 m) high, lies approximately 1 mi (1.6 km) southeast of the higher North Peak. It was first climbed the Southwest Route on May 30, 1947 by Fred Beckey , Melvin Marcus, Jerry O'Neil, Ken Prestrud, Herb Staley and Charles Welshüber. Its north flank is "almost completely vertical over 1,000 ft (approx. 300 m)". That makes it the steepest peak in Washington with a mean angle of 42.62 °.

Hozomeen South-West Peak

Hozomeen South-West Peak (7,471 ft (2,277 m)) is a steep summit with a notch height of only 511 ft (156 m). It was first climbed in 1951 by John Dudra and Howard Rode. The easiest ascent route leads over a summit rib and a loosely filled gully ( difficulty level 3 ( YDS )). There are two other routes. The steepest flank of this summit is on the northwest side.

In the media

Jack Kerouac mentioned Hozomeen Mountain in the final chapters of his 1958 novel The Dharma Bums . One of the rhymes in it is “Hozomeen, Hozomeen, the most mournful mountain I've ever seen” (Eng. About “Hozomeen, Hozomeen, the saddest mountain I’ve ever seen ”). He also plays a role in his 1965 novel Desolation Angels , when the protagonists are stationed on a fire watchtower on the nearby Desolation Peak .

Ascent routes

Hozomeen North

  • North Route (YDS: 3–4)
  • Northeast Buttress (northeast pillar, as in the first ascent in 1904 by Tatum and Loudon; YDS: 3–4)
  • South Ridge (South Ridge; YDS: 3–4)
  • Southwest Buttress (southwest pillar, first ascent by Dick Culbert and Alice Purdey in August 1968; grade IV [YDS: 5.7 to 5.10a], difficult to secure, very few successful climbs)
  • West Face (western flank; grade IV [YDS: 5.9], very difficult to secure, is one of the most difficult routes)

Hozomeen South

  • Southwest Route (Grade III + [YDS: 5.6], first ascent by Fred Beckey , Melvin Marcus, Jerry O'Neil, Ken Prestrud, Herb Staley and Charles Welsh)
  • North Ridge (north ridge; grade IV + [YDS: 5.5], first ascent by Fred Douglas and Paul Starr on Labor Day Weekend 1974, i.e. on August 31 and September 1)
  • Southeast Buttress (Southeast Pillar; Grade III [YDS: 5.6], first ascent by Dave Adams, Don Goodman, Ken Johnson and John Petroske)

Hozomeen South-West

  • Southwest Route (YDS: 3; first ascent 1951 by John Dudra and Howard Rode)
  • South Ridge (South Ridge; YDS: 5.0, first ascent 1958 by Dick Culbert, Gary Johncox and Bill Sharpe)
  • West Buttress and Face (west pillar and flank; grade III [YDS: 5.5], first ascent on July 26, 1969 by Edmund Zenger, Juergen Oswald and Gernot Walter)

See also

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Hozomeen . NGS. Retrieved September 3, 2018.
  2. ^ H. Majors: First Crossing of the Pickett Range . In: Northwest Discovery . 5, No. 21, 1984, ISSN  0272-1570 , pp. 4-9.
  3. ↑ GPV Akrigg, Helen B. Akrigg: British Columbia placenames . Sono Nis Press, Victoria, BC, Canada 1986, ISBN 0-919203-96-5 .
  4. ^ Robert R Mierendorf: Chert Procurement in the Upper Skagit River Valley of the Northern Cascade Range, Ross Lake National Recreation Area, Washington . National Park Service, Seattle, WA 1993.
  5. ↑ a b c d Fred W. Beckey: Rainy Pass to Fraser River  (= Cascade alpine guide: climbing and high routes), 3rd edition, Volume 3, The Mountaineers Books, 2008, ISBN 978-1-59485-136-0 .
  6. ↑ Hozomeen Mountain-South Peak, Washington . PeakBagger.com. Retrieved September 3, 2018.

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