Ilona and Rolanda from Eötvös
Ilona (* 4. June 1880 in Budapest , † 15. February 1945 ibid) and Rolanda Eötvös (* 10. January 1878 in Budapest, † 13. April 1953 ibid) were Hungarian mountaineers and alpinists .
Life
The daughters of the Hungarian physicist and politician Loránd Eötvös and his wife Gizella Horváth were born in Budapest. From a young age, from 1896, she accompanied her father, an enthusiastic alpinist, on various mountain tours, especially in the Dolomites . With him and accompanied by local mountain guides, they climbed the Cima Cadin di Misurina and the Croda Liscia in the Cadini group for the first time .
In the years that followed, the two made a name for themselves as alpinists. According to their nobility , they became known as the two Hungarian baronesses in mountaineering circles and are considered to be pioneers of women mountaineering. As was customary at the time, they usually went on their tours with well-known mountain guides such as Angelo Dibona . In contrast to male customers, this led to negative assessments of their performance at the time. In addition to tackling challenging peaks and tours such as the Guglia di Brenta , both made a name for themselves with first ascents and first ascents .
One of the most famous first ascent, which they carried out with the mountain guide Antonio Dimai in August 1901, is the ascent of the south face of the Tofana di Rozes . The route is now known as Dimai-Eötvös and is rated IV + according to the UIAA scale . It is considered one of the great classic south face routes in the Dolomites. The peaks that the two siblings climbed for the first time were the Cima d'Auronzo in the Sexten Dolomites and the Torre del Diavolo in the Cadini group. Also together with Dimai, they climbed the south face of the Grohmannspitze for the first time in 1908 , and this difficult route has been called Dimai-Eötvös ever since .
Little is known about the further lives of the two sisters. As recently as 1995, in the library of the German Alpine Club , one of the largest specialist alpine libraries, her name could not be found as a keyword in the catalog, a fate that she shared with Paula Wiesinger and Beatrice Tomasson , for example . The climbing guide and specialist author Anette Köhler rated this as a historical “woman's corpse in the cellar” of the Alpine clubs.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ List of inspections on the website of the Geological and Geophysical Institute of Hungary , accessed on November 11, 2013
- ↑ a b Anette Köhler: Women mountaineering. In search of a forgotten page of Alpine history. In: Alpine Club Yearbook 1995, ISBN 3-7633-8058-2 , p. 161 f.
- ^ Katy Dartford: Exploring women's climbing; from London to the Dolomites of Beatrice Tomasson , accessed November 11, 2013
- ↑ Anke Rietdorf, Magda Wystub: “Are you looking for women's clothes?” In: taz, June 1, 2002 , accessed on November 11, 2013
- ^ Ivo Rabanser: 110 years ago: Tofana di Rózes-Südwand , in Dolomites Alpine , accessed on November 11, 2013
- ↑ Anette Köhler, Norbert Memmel: Climbing Guide Dolomites . Bergverlag Rother, 4th edition, May 2003, ISBN 978-3-7633-3015-7 , p. 105
- ↑ Anette Köhler, Norbert Memmel: Climbing Guide Dolomites . Bergverlag Rother, 4th edition, May 2003, ISBN 978-3-7633-3015-7 , p. 14