Nangpai Gosum II

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Nangpai Gosum II
Mountain ridge below the Cho Oyu summit

Mountain ridge below the Cho Oyu summit

location Solukhumbu District ( Nepal ),
Tibet ( PR China )
Mountains Mahalangur Himal ( Himalaya )
Coordinates Coordinates are missing! Help. Coordinates are missing! Help.
First ascent October 3, 2017 by Jost Kobusch (Solo)
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The Nangpai Gosum II is a secondary peak of the Pasang Lhamu Chuli on a mountain ridge on the southwest flank of the Cho Oyu on the Tibetan-Nepalese border in the Khumbu Himal.

The designation of the ridge summit and height information were and are inconsistent. According to Eberhard Jurgalski , the Nangpai Gosum II is 7,321 m high, the Himalayan Database assigned a height of 7,287 m to the Nangpai Gosum II in July 2019 and alternatively calls it Chamar . The Nangpai Gosum I is led to a height of 7321 m.

The Nepalese government released three ridge peaks for ascent in 2002, and the Nangpai Gosum II has been accessible for expeditions since 2014.

On October 3, 2017, the Nangpai Gosum II was first climbed by Jost Kobusch . Kobusch needed three days for the summit success over the south face, he assessed the degree of difficulty of the ascent with TD (Tres Difficile) according to the International French Adjectival System (IFAS) “with 65 to 80 degree steep ice and snow passages as well as rock climbing in the fifth and sixth degree ". Until then, the Nangpai Gosum II was considered the fourth highest unclimbed mountain in the world and the highest unclimbed mountain in Nepal.

In September 2016, a French team of four failed at an altitude of 6700 m when attempting to climb Nangpai Gosum II in a direct line over the south-southwest face.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Kazuyoshi Kondo: Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal — Khumbu Section, Nampai Gosum I, South Summit. In: American Alpine Club Journal. American Alpine Club , 2007, accessed November 16, 2019 .
  2. ↑ Editor Alpin Magazin: Alpin. Jost Kobusch: Success on Nangpai Gosum II: first ascent in the Himalayas. October 17, 2017, accessed on March 22, 2018 (altitude information and systematics of Nangpai Gosum II 7321 m according to Jurgalski).
  3. ↑ a b Himlalayan Database Guide. (PDF) The Himalayan Database , July 2019, accessed November 24, 2019 .
  4. ^ Asia, Nepal, New Peaks for 2002. In: American Alpine Club Journal. American Alpine Club , 2002, accessed November 16, 2019 .
  5. ↑ Rajan Pokhrel: German climber makes first ascent of Mt Nagpai Gosum. The Himalayan Times, October 11, 2017, accessed November 17, 2019 .
  6. ↑ a b Jost Kobusch: Nangpai Gosum I, Southwest Face via South Summit. Nepal, Mahalangur Himal, Khumbu Section. In: American Alpine Club Journal. American Alpine Club , 2018, accessed on November 16, 2019 (English, editor's note on the different mountain names).
  7. ↑ Nangpai-Gosum II first ascent Kobusch: "Very difficult". Deutsche Welle , October 17, 2017, accessed on November 15, 2019 .
  8. ↑ Mitka, Nate: Lone Climber Summits World's 4th Highest Unclimbed Peak. Gearjunkie, October 18, 2017, accessed March 22, 2018 .
  9. ↑ Sandy Plas: Des nouvelles du GMHM au Nangpai Gosum 2nd Montagnes Magazine, October 24, 2016, accessed on November 17, 2019 (French).