Palatine (collar)

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Comtesse Ticino with a fur-trimmed palatine, probably also lined with fur, and a fur muff (1766)

In the 17th to 19th centuries, a cloth-like collar that was widely worn at the time was referred to as a palatine or palatine .

The term did not originate directly from the Latin “palatinus”, but rather goes back to the French intermediate form “palatine”, “fur collar”, “kragentuch”. The shape of the collar is actually taken from the old Palatinate costume. Lieselotte von der Pfalz (* 1652, † 1722) brought these fur collars from her homeland when she married Duke Philip I of Orléans and made them popular at the French court. According to its Palatinate origins, it was called "palatines" there (Palatinat = Pfalz). Actually known in Europe as a fur accessory for a long time, it returned to Germany with a few refinements as a fashion collar under the name Palatin.

Francis Weiss , an English fur trader and author, suspects that the fur collar of the Lieselotte from the Palatinate was actually a fur necklace , a collar made in the shape of an animal, made of sable fur . The fur necklaces that were often artfully decorated up to this time are also known as flea pelts . Lieselotte wrote on December 14, 1697 to her aunt Sophie, Electress of Hanover:

“ ... I have to say that the King shows me more grace every day, because he speaks to me wherever he meets me and now has me fetched every Saturday to hold medianoshe with him at Madame de Montespan. This also means that I am now very fashionable, because everything I say and do, whether it be good or too difficult, the courtiers admirer so much that, as I now consider myself doing my old sable in this cold, to have warmer on the neck, everyone now has one made according to this pattern and it is now the greatest fashion; which probably makes me laugh, because the same people who now admiring this fashion and wearing it themselves laughed so much at me five years ago when I arrived in France and yelled at me so much with my sable that I haven't been allowed to wear it since then. This is what happens here at court, whoever the courtesan imagines that someone is in favor, one may do what he wants, but one can be assured that one is approved; if they imagine the opposite, they will hold a ridiculous when it comes straight from heaven ... "

The collar is first mentioned in German in 1715 under the name Palatine, in the "Useful, gallant and curious woman's encyclopedia" by Gottlieb Siegmund Corvinus, published in Leipzig. In 1776 Heinrich Leopold Wagner published the tragedy The Child Murderer . In it, Ms. Humbrecht describes her husband, the butcher Martin Humbrecht, who is not interested in fashion, with the following words:

“ It's not quite the old world yet; he cannot imagine how I have my cross with him! - Two years ago, at the beginning of winter, we would have lost our bed and table by a hair, God forgive me! divorced because I exchanged my tortured paladin [ marten fur collar] , which he had inherited from his grandmother, for a newfangled one; and yet only a week ago my Evchen a child should be lifted [from the baptism raise] , as he was with body and soul to, it would have put the golden dome, and yet you see them no more people on who, as the highest gardener and Leineweber's daughters. "

In the 1820s, it suddenly became fashionable in France for ladies to adorn themselves with palatines made of black cat fur , a fashion that quickly spread to the east but did not last long. At least in fashion-conscious Petersburg, palatines made of so-called Genotten cats disappeared soon afterwards. In the milder climate of France, light neck and breast scarves made of silk and transparent fabrics were soon known as palatines. In one of his satires, the writer Gottlieb Wilhelm Rabener (* 1714; † 1771), who was widely read in the 18th century, emphasizes that “ women’s souls do not wear scarves, but only fleeting palatines when it comes up ”. Bruno Schier tries in his work Name and factual history of the Palatine garment to explain the change from a warm garment to something now wafer-thin and airy with a “clever hint” by Rabener in a quote from another place: “ He looks at the Palatine and becomes like that hot with love that he would like to melt ”.

In the spirit of French a la mode, the palatine had become an object of fashionable coquetry . Other references can be found in comic epic of Justus Friedrich Wilhelm Zachariah (* 1726, † 1777), " too thin to cover a delicate Palatin something " and in 1771 in Christoph Martin Wieland in New Amadis , with the " bad habit ", " to squint at paladins who have shifted a little ”. However, the young Goethe considers a " painted newfangled ribbon, the lightest palatines " to be sufficient even for the boldest of clothes.

With the disappearance of the deep cleavage, the palatine also disappeared in the last two decades of the 18th century. It was increasingly being replaced by the follette , a triangularly folded scarf made of light fabrics and tied at the front, and its name was gradually largely forgotten.

Web links

supporting documents

  1. ↑ Biedenfeld: fashion journal for furriers, hat and cap makers , second issue. Undated (around 1845), p. 58.
  2. ↑ Der Sprachdienst , p. 121. ( Memento from January 7, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) (PDF; 918 kB)
  3. ^ D. Johann Heinrich Moritz Poppe: Johann Christian Schedels new and complete wares lexicon. Second part M to Z, fourth completely improved edition , Verlag Carl Ludwig Brede, Offenbach am Mayn 1814, p. 127 " Palatin "
  4. ^ Johann Leonhard Frisch: New French-German and German-French dictionary. other edition, Leipzig 1719, p. 728a (after Schier)
  5. ↑ a b c Bruno Schier: On the history of names and items of clothing Palatine . In: The fur trade. Supplement to the magazine Hermelin XXII. Volume 9/10, 1952, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin / Leipzig, pp. 4–8.
  6. ↑ Francis Weiss : A Dubious Story . In: in-house magazine "Marco", 31st edition / 10th edition. Year end 1972, Märkle & Co. , Fürth, pp. 29–31
  7. ↑ The flea fur - a ticklish thing. In: Pelz International. Volume 32, April 1979, ISSN  0171-533X , p. 180
  8. ↑ Jos. Klein: The Siberian fur trade and its importance for the conquest of Siberia. Inaugural dissertation at the Rheinische Friedrich Wilhelm University in Bonn, 1906, p. 63. Secondary source v. Baer: News from Siberia and the Kyrgyz Steppes. St. Petersburg 1845. pp. 213 f.
  9. ^ Sperander (F. Gladow): à la Mode-Sprach der Teutschen . Nuremberg, 1727 (after Schier)
  10. ^ Heinrich Leopold Wagner: Works . Edited by August Sauer in Kürschners National-Literatur, vol. 80, p. 300 f. (after Schier)
  11. ^ Friedrich Wilhelm Zacharia: The Renommist . Leipzig 1744, II., P. 149 (after Schier)
  12. ↑ Christoph Martin Wieland: The new Amadis . Leipzig 1771, p. 6 (after Schier)
  13. ↑ Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: Complete edition last hand . Stuttgart 1827 ff., XII, p. 14 (after Schier).