Roger Vivier

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Shoes by Roger Vivier for Christian Dior

Roger Vivier (* 1907 in Paris , France , † 1998 in Toulouse , France) was a French fashion designer who specialized in the design of shoes.

Life

Vivier was orphaned at the age of nine. In later years he studied sculpture at the École nationale supérieure des beaux-arts in Paris. From 1927 he worked with shoe factories. In 1932 he began to design paints and leather surfaces for Laboremus in Paris. Laboremus is the leather dealer and model workshop in France for Heyl'sche Lederwerke in Worms-Liebenau . For the Heyl'schen Lederwerke, at that time the world's leading company for the production of Chevreau leather (goat leather), he designed shoes exclusively for Laboremus in the 1930s. His shoes, whose surfaces are often reminiscent of the structures of sculptures, were worn by celebrities such as Greta Garbo in the decades following his shop opening in Paris' Rue Royale in 1937 .

Vivier worked at the same time for shoe companies such as Bally in Switzerland, Salamander or I. Miller by Delman in New York City . During his exile in New York City during World War II , after a brief period as a French soldier, he worked for Delman. After leather was rationed as a result of the war in the USA in 1942, he designed hats. It was not until 1945 that he was able to design shoes for Delman again and began to experiment with transparent plastic. On the ship back to France in 1947 he met Christian Dior . The two discovered that they were neighbors in Mougins .

For the coronation of the British Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 in London's Westminster Abbey , Vivier made the ruby-studded shoes from Chevreu leather. Vivier worked for the Christian Diors fashion house from 1953 to 1963 before he went into business again. After his death, the Roger Vivier brand lost some of its luster before it was taken over in 2001 by the owner of the Italian company Tod’s . Since 2003, Bruno Frisoni , of Italian descent, has been the artistic director of the company as creative director .

Vivier's creations, which include the shoes with stiletto heels from 1954, are shown in several museums in North America and Europe. The Roger Vivier company has, based on its boutique designed by the Brazilian artist and interior designer Lena Pessoa in the Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, further sales outlets in Asia, Europe and America. The range of boutiques on three continents was gradually expanded and now includes jewelry, bags, belts and sunglasses.

Exhibitions

literature

  • Les souliers de Roger Vivier . Musée des arts de la mode, Paris 1987, ISBN 2-901422-07-1 . Exhibition catalog.
  • Roger Vivier: D'Un soulier l'autre , 2006.
  • Footwear: Roger Vivier; 22.03. - 02.11.2014 , German Leather Museum, Shoe Museum Offenbach 2013, ISBN 978-3-9815440-2-2 . Exhibition catalog.
  • Shadow of Schoenen: Nederlands Leder en Schoenen Museum Waalwijk, 20.02. - 06/28/2015. Exhibition catalog.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ When the shoe runs ahead of the foot. In: FAZ from April 1, 2014, page 38.
  2. ^ Exhibition: Roger Vivier - Footwear in the German Leather Museum Offenbach. In: vogue.de. Retrieved June 11, 2015 .
personal data
SURNAME Vivier, Roger
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French fashion designer for shoes
DATE OF BIRTH 1907
PLACE OF BIRTH Paris , France
DATE OF DEATH 1998
Place of death Toulouse , France