Jumped

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Attempt to reconstruct a Saxon hairnet from the 6th century AD.

Sprang is a textile handicraft technique for the production of net-like knitted braids from parallel stretched threads. These braids are stretchable and can, for. B. can be used as a hairnet, pouch or belt.

definition

Sprang is a warp fabric process with an active warp , in which, in contrast to weaving, only a system of threads stretched in parallel is used, a weft thread is not required. Crossing or twisting the warp threads or individual thread groups creates an elastic, more or less dense braid. Depending on which warp threads are crossed with each other, various arise surveys or bond forms . A distinction is made between hanging, braided and twisted binding. The term sprang comes from Swedish.

technology

A fastening option for the warp threads is required as an aid for the production of braids using the jump technique. It doesn't have to be a loom or loom , a low hanging branch, two chair backs or a simple rectangular frame are sufficient. Usually the chain is stretched between two thin rods or cords. These are attached at the desired distance from each other, then the thread is wound over the bars with even tension. At the beginning and the end, the warp thread is knotted to the top bar. The threads lying in front of the bars are then crossed with the threads behind the bars. This creates crossings above and below the working position. These crossing points are pushed to the ends of the chain with the help of your fingers or a stick. As you continue to work, the braid grows from both ends towards the middle. Finally, the last row is threaded in the middle on a ribbon or the net meshes are looped into one another to prevent them from opening.

history

Attempt to reconstruct the hairnet from the grave of Skrydstrup. Shown in Haderslev Museum, Denmark.
Attempt to reconstruct the hairnet of the bog body Frau von Arden from Denmark.

Europe and North Africa

  • 3000 - 1500 BC Chr.

The oldest references to textiles made using the jumping technique come from the Neolithic ( Neolithic ). On the underside of some clay vessels from Rietzmeck, Roßlau district, there are imprints of the wickerwork on which they stood to dry. In terms of structure, it was probably Sprang.

  • 1400--1300 BC Chr.

The earliest preserved braid was found in 1871 in a Bronze Age burial mound in Denmark. In the grave of Borum Eshoj's wife , near Aarhus , a completely preserved hairnet made of fine wool was found . Another complete hairnet is also available from the women's grave of Skrydstrup, which is also from the Bronze Age .

  • 800 - 500 BC Chr.

Two other findings are from Danish bogs from the Hallstatt period : The bog bodies wife Haraldskær and the wife of Arden woolen among other garments hairnets were each found.

  • 500 - 50 BC Chr.

From the Latènezeit comes not only a textile fragment from a Spanish grave that may have been made in Sprang technique, also from the funeral of Prince of Glauberg comes a find a Sprang work.

  • approx. 100 AD

In a garbage pit in the Roman settlement of Vindonissa , Switzerland , a fragment of wool was found that is interpreted as a hairnet.

  • AD 400-700

By far the largest number of preserved spring textiles comes from Coptic graves. From 1880 on, these were excavated in Upper Egypt , mainly near Akhmim . Various well-preserved headgear and bags made of natural-colored linen or dyed wool were found in them. Technically, the Coptic jumping work is very well developed and complicated.

These extraordinary finds are due to the fact that the Copts fully clothed their dead and buried them with numerous additions from everyday life. The graves were built in dry sand above the flood zone of the Nile , so that the organic material was hardly exposed to decomposition by bacteria . So wool, linen, leather and wood were preserved.

  • 6th century AD

A pair of woolen leg warmers / gaiters from Sprang were found in a moor near Tegle, Norway . Both boots were working as a part, then separated and at the edges with Brettchengewebe tidied. The surface is decorated with a pattern of triangles. The gaiters reach from the ankle to the knee, have no foot part and are made as a tube.

  • approx. 850 AD

From the ship grave of Oseberg comes a wooden frame that may have been used as Flechtrahmen for Sprang work. An interpretation as a weaving frame for picture knitting is just as possible.

A gaiter similar to those from the 6th century was found in York . It is made of wool and has a striped pattern.

Small fragments of jumping work have been found in some graves in Birka , Sweden .

South America

  • 1100 BC Chr.

Sprang was not only common in Europe , this textile technique was also used in South America . In 1957 some cylindrical bags and various fragments of cotton were found in Asia on the Peruvian coast. They come from the late pre-ceramic period.

  • 500-300 BC Chr.

Two crack fragments, which may have belonged to headgear, come from the graves of Paracas Cavernas, Peru . Both are made from orange wool and are completely patterned with fish, snakes and birds.

  • 300 BC Chr. - 500 AD

Numerous textiles in jumping technique come from the Nazca culture in Peru. They were found near the eponymous city of Nazca . The spectrum ranges from very elaborate and finely crafted scarves to simple bags and pouches.

  • A.D. 1100-1300

A narrow band of cotton comes from Mule Creek Cave in New Mexico .

  • A.D. 1100-1300

A shirt with an intricate lace pattern was found in Tonto Monument, Arizona . There are fringes on the lower edge. Probably the front and back sections are halves of the same jump job.

literature

  • Annemarie Seiler-Baldinger: Systematics of the textile techniques . Wepf & Co, Basel 1991, ISBN 3-85977-185-X .
  • Peter Collingwood: The Techniques of Sprang . Faber & Faber Books, London 1974, ISBN 0-571-10144-5 (English).
  • Margrethe Hald: Jumped . In: Ancient Danish Textiles from Bogs and Burials . National Museum of Denmark, Copenhagen 1980, ISBN 87-480-0312-3 , p. 245-277 (English).

Dagmar Drinkler, Close-fitting clothing in antiquity and renaissance . In: Journal for Art Technology and Conservation 24, 2010, 5-35.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Holger Baitinger, Bernhard Pinsker (ed.): The riddle of the Celts from Glauberg . Theiss, Stuttgart 2002, ISBN 3-8062-1592-8 .
  2. ↑ The Celtic princes of Glauberg: An early Celtic prince's grave mound on the slope of the Glauberg near Glauburg-Glauberg, Wetteraukreis . Archaeological Society in Hessen, Wiesbaden 1996.

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