After-sun products

INCI -compliant indication of the ingredients of an after-sun lotion on the back of the pack.

After-sun products (also Aftersun- , Aprèssun products ) include products for the care and treatment of skin after these intense sunlight was suspended. After-sun products are used especially in the event of sunburn .

history

A significant proportion of age-related skin problems can be traced back to light damage from excessive, unprotected UV light exposure. In particular, the role of sunlight, as one of the essential factors in the development of skin cancer , was increasingly discussed in the 1940s and 1950s. Sunburn treatments and so-called after-sun products were used as early as the end of the 19th century. Examples of such products are lactic acid with glycerine and rose water , hydrogen peroxide , iodine , lime or cucumber juice and buttermilk baths .

ingredients

Most formulas for after-sun products make emulsions (e.g. lotions and creams ) or gels . These include moisturizers and ingredients that have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. Most of the active ingredients are plant-based, such as azulene and bisabolol from chamomile and glycyrrhizin from licorice root . Also extracts from various plants such. B. witch hazel , chamomile and aloe vera are used.

In addition, compounds such as allantoin , menthol , panthenol , jojoba oil , amino acids of the silk protein fibroin , collagen , unsaturated fatty acids and fat-soluble vitamins ( vitamins A , C and E ) can be found as ingredients in after-sun products. The gallery below shows examples of the ingredients of various after-sun products.

INCI-compliant specification of the ingredients of an after-sun lotion (1)
INCI-compliant specification of the ingredients of an after-sun lotion (2)
INCI-compliant specification of the ingredients of an after-sun lotion (3)
Composition of an after-sun foam

Mode of action

Anti-inflammatory substances (e.g. panthenol and azulene) are used to alleviate erythema and related symptoms such as pain and burning sensation . Their effect is generally considered weak. Compounds such as menthol and other alcohols have a cooling effect and thus, at least for a short time, reduce the feeling of uncomfortable warmth on sun-irritated skin. In addition, substances with an antioxidant effect are added to after-sun products with the aim of replenishing the exhausted pool of dermal antioxidants and thus strengthening the skin's defense system .

Current research also focuses on photolyases , which enable the dissolution of UV-induced cyclobutane-pyrimidine dimers (CPD). These CPDs are responsible for the damage to DNA in organisms.

literature

Helena Karajiannis, Bernard Gabard: Sun and After-Sun Products . In: André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach (Eds.): Handbook of cosmetic science and technology . Fourth ed. Boca Raton 2014, ISBN 978-1-84214-565-4 , pp. 293-300.

Individual evidence

↑ ^a ^b Helena Karajiannis, Bernard Gabard: Sun and After Sun Products . In: André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach (Eds.): Handbook of cosmetic science and technology . Fourth ed. Boca Raton 2014, ISBN 978-1-84214-565-4 , pp. 293-300 (English).
↑ ^a ^b Michael R. Albert, Kristen G. Ostheimer: The evolution of current medical and popular attitudes toward ultraviolet light exposure: Part 1 . In: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology . tape 47 , no. 6 , December 2002, p. 930-937 , doi : 10.1067 / mjd . 2002.127254 .

↑ C. Guercio-Hauer, DF Macfarlane, VA Deleo: Photodamage, photoaging and photoprotection of the skin . In: American Family Physician . tape 50 , no. 2 , August 1994, p. 327-332, 334 , PMID 8042567 .

↑ Gerd Kindl, Wolfgang Raab: Light and skin: tanning, light protection, care; A guide . Govi-Verlag, Frankfurt am Main 1983, ISBN 3-7741-9876-4 .

↑ Philippe G. Humbert, Marek Haftek, Pierre Creidi, Charles Lapiere, Betty Nusgens: Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo . In: Experimental Dermatology . tape 12 , no. 3 , June 2003, p. 237-244 , doi : 10.1034 / j.1600-0625.2003.00008.x .

^ Wouter Schul, Judith Jans, Yvonne MA Rijksen, Kyra HM Klemann, Andre PM Eker: Enhanced repair of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and improved UV resistance in photolyase transgenic mice . In: The EMBO Journal . tape 21 , no. 17 , September 2, 2002, pp. 4719-4729 , doi : 10.1093 / emboj / cdf456 , PMID 12198174 , PMC 125407 (free full text).

↑ Helger Stege: Effect of xenogenic repair enzymes on photoimmunology and photocarcinogenesis . In: Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology . tape 65 , no. 2-3 , December 2001, pp. 105-108 , doi : 10.1016 / s1011-1344 (01) 00246-9 .

[:1-1] Helena Karajiannis, Bernard Gabard: Sun and After Sun Products . In: André O. Barel, Marc Paye, Howard I. Maibach (Eds.): Handbook of cosmetic science and technology . Fourth ed. Boca Raton 2014, ISBN 978-1-84214-565-4 , pp. 293-300 (English).

[:0-2] Michael R. Albert, Kristen G. Ostheimer: The evolution of current medical and popular attitudes toward ultraviolet light exposure: Part 1 . In: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology . tape 47 , no. 6 , December 2002, p. 930-937 , doi : 10.1067 / mjd . 2002.127254 .

[3] C. Guercio-Hauer, DF Macfarlane, VA Deleo: Photodamage, photoaging and photoprotection of the skin . In: American Family Physician . tape 50 , no. 2 , August 1994, p. 327-332, 334 , PMID 8042567 .

[4] Gerd Kindl, Wolfgang Raab: Light and skin: tanning, light protection, care; A guide . Govi-Verlag, Frankfurt am Main 1983, ISBN 3-7741-9876-4 .

[5] Philippe G. Humbert, Marek Haftek, Pierre Creidi, Charles Lapiere, Betty Nusgens: Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo . In: Experimental Dermatology . tape 12 , no. 3 , June 2003, p. 237-244 , doi : 10.1034 / j.1600-0625.2003.00008.x .

[6] Wouter Schul, Judith Jans, Yvonne MA Rijksen, Kyra HM Klemann, Andre PM Eker: Enhanced repair of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and improved UV resistance in photolyase transgenic mice . In: The EMBO Journal . tape 21 , no. 17 , September 2, 2002, pp. 4719-4729 , doi : 10.1093 / emboj / cdf456 , PMID 12198174 , PMC 125407 (free full text).

[7] Helger Stege: Effect of xenogenic repair enzymes on photoimmunology and photocarcinogenesis . In: Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology . tape 65 , no. 2-3 , December 2001, pp. 105-108 , doi : 10.1016 / s1011-1344 (01) 00246-9 .