Dörte Pietron

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Dörte Pietron (born April 27, 1981 in Heidelberg ) is a German extreme mountaineer , climber and certified mountain guide and ski guide. She was the first woman to climb the west face of Cerro Torre . Dörte Pietron has acted as a double for actresses in several mountain films.

Career

Between 2000 and 2007 studied Dorte Pietron at the University of Heidelberg physics and graduated successfully with a diploma exam from. At the same time, she completed her training as a specialist alpine climbing instructor. Between 2003 and 2005 she was part of the expedition squad of the German Alpine Club (DAV). In 2007 she completed her training as a mountain guide , which she successfully completed in 2011. Since then she has been working full-time as a mountain guide. She is also the trainer of the DAV women's team expedition squad and a member of the DAV's performance mountaineering committee.

Alpinism

Alps

It wasn't until 1999 that Pietron made her first ski and climbing tours. Already in 2002 she climbed the northeast face of the Eiger ( 3970  m above sea level ) on the Lauper route (difficulty: V ) and the Aiguille du Midi ( 3842  m ) over the Frendopeiler (5c). One year later, the north face of the Droites ( 4000  m ) followed on the Ginat route ( WI5 / M). She climbed the same wall in 2004 on the tournament pillar (WI4, 6a). On Mont Blanc du Tacul ( 4248  m ) she climbed Modica-Noury (WI5 +, M5) and Gabarrou-Albinoni (WI4) in 2005 . In 2005 she was able to climb her first 8a red point with Mescalito in the Karlstein climbing garden near Bad Reichenhall . In 2006 the Mont Blanc du Tacul passed through the Supercouloir (WI5 +, 5c). In 2008 she was able to climb successfully in the Dolomites . On the south wall she reached the summit of Marmolada ( 3343  m slm ) on the route Modern Times (VIII) and Vinatzer-Messner (VI). At the Drei Zinnen it climbed the Direttissima (VIII +) to the Große Zinne ( 2999  m slm ) and the Cassin-Ratti (VII +, A1) to the Kleine Zinne ( 2857  m slm ).

Himalayas

In 2005 Dörte Pietron was able to climb the Nayser Brakk ( 5200  m ; 6a, M) in Pakistan . In 2008 an expedition led to the Miyar Valley near Udaipur in India . There she climbed the Geruda Peak ( 5640  m ; III).

Yosemite Valley

In 2004 he went to North America for big wall climbing in the Yosemite National Park . Here Pietron climbed the El Capitan ( 2307  m ) The Nose ( 5.9 , C1), the Half Dome ( 2693  m ) via Regular (5.9, C1) in the northwest face and the Washington Column ( 2307  m ) in the Astroman route (5.11c ) and the Leaning Tower via Wet Denim Daydream (C2).

To the

In 2001, in the Cordillera Blanca, Pietron climbed Nevado Pisco ( 5752  m ), Nevado Toclaraju ( 6033  m ) and Nevado Chopicalqui ( 6350  m ).

Patagonia

In 2008 Dörte Pietron was successful in Patagonia . She was the first woman to climb the west face (WI5, M6) of Cerro Torre ( 3133  m ). The north pillar of the Fitz Roy ( 3406  m ) in the route Mate, Porro y Todo lo Demás (7a) succeeded. She has now climbed the Fitz Roy several times on different routes. Dörte Pietron has now climbed Cerro Torre a second time, this time via the "Compressor Route". She was also successful on Aguja Poincenot , the second highest peak of the Fitz Roy massif.

literature

  • Dörte Pietron: Tunnel of Dreams - Through the west face of Cerro Torre . 2009, In: Bergsteiger . Volume 77, No. 4/09 (pp. 86–93)

Web links
personal data
SURNAME Pietron, Dörte
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German mountaineer and climber
DATE OF BIRTH April 27, 1981
PLACE OF BIRTH Heidelberg