Diether Marchart
Diether Marchart (born November 11, 1939 in Vienna , † August 27, 1962 on the Eiger north face ) was an Austrian mountaineer.
Career
Marchart attempted a first ascent on the Civetta in the Dolomites with Claude Barbier, Walter Philipp and Dieter Flamm in September 1957 , but was injured by falling rocks and had to descend with Barbier. Philipp and Flamm completed the "Philipp-Flamm" route, which became one of the most famous climbing routes in the Dolomites.
On March 28, 1958, he and Peter Holl made the first ski crossing of the Seckauer Tauern in 16 hours. In the same year, the two succeeded in the first ascent of the Badstubenkesselwandverschnealtung (450 m, VI +) on the Rax , which later became a classic in this area.
From September 7th to 8th, 1958, he and Peter Königsberger completed the 22nd ascent of the North Face Direttissima on the Großer Zinne in the Sesto Dolomites . A report on the visit, written by Marchart, appeared in the centenary of the Austrian Alpine Club .
On July 22, 1959, he managed the first solo ascent of the Matterhorn north face in just five hours, making alpine history with it. In July 1962 a report appeared in the "Bergkamerad".
Together with Günther Stronger he also succeeded on June 9, 1960, the first ascent of DISTAGHIL SAR (7,885 m) in Pakistan's Karakoram -Gebirge. For their ascent, they chose a steep route in the western area of the south flank, where a British attempt at ascent had failed in 1957. A gap turned out to be a major obstacle, which Marchart and two other Austrians could only pass after two days using a self-made rope ladder. From Camp 3 at a height of 7,010 m, the two climbed towards the summit, which they reached about seven and a half hours later. Marchart suffered severe frostbite on his right hand during the descent.
In 1960 he succeeded in a winter ascent of the Dachstein south face.
When trying to be the first to climb the Eiger north face on August 27, 1962, he fell fatally below the second ice field in the area of the "ice tube".
literature
- Ulrich Remanofsky: Who the gods love. Fates of eleven extreme mountaineers; Hans Dülfer, Paul Preuß, Willo Welzenbach, Louis Lachenal, Diether Marchart, Toni Kinshofer, Günther Messner, Heini Holzer, Alison Hargreaves, Xaver Bongard and Marco Siffredi. Alpinverlag, Bad Häring 2012, ISBN 978-3-902656-09-4 .
- A life in plumb from Dietrich Hasse
- Four thousand meter peaks in the Alps by Wolfgang Pusch, Helmut Dumler and Willi P. Burkhardt
- Niedere Tauern: a guide for valleys, huts and mountains by Peter Holl
Web links
- Alpine archive
- The six classic north faces of the Alps , Alpine Magazine
- First ascent of Distaghil Sar , Alpine Association Austria
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Marchart, Diether |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Austrian mountaineer |
| DATE OF BIRTH | November 11, 1939 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Vienna |
| DATE OF DEATH | August 27, 1962 |
| Place of death | Eiger north face |