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A , also town fur , is a gentleman winter coat with fur trim and fur lining . After the Second World War (1939–1945), both terms were increasingly forgotten. The shorter version was called a fur jacket . The furred fur was once considered an attribute of the well-groomed gentleman and a symbol of civic prosperity.
While fur-lined clothing today is mostly made of light outer materials (microfibre, poplin and the like), the warming effect of winter clothing was much more in the foreground instead of being light in times of unheated trains and cars. Therefore, mostly strong and therefore heavy cloths were used for the fabric covers. As the fur-lined men's coats became lighter, the term faux fur was largely lost.
With the advent of motor vehicles, a particularly warm variant of the furry men's coat was created, the motorist's coat, but mostly it was worked with the hair facing outwards. The more elegant models with fur inside were offered as automobile fur or as faux fur; for outer furs and for the rural sleigh and coachman coats, the term faux fur was not used.
As a rule, the fur was firmly attached to the fabric part. A dry cleaning service did not exist, the cloth coats were only brushed, spots were rubbed out, the fur was for removing dust and against moth infestation knocked . If you wanted or had to wash the fabric coat, the fur had to be cut off and then sewn back in again, and fur cleaning was also possible on this occasion . Usually the inner lining ended about eight centimeters set back on a piece of fabric, it was more luxurious if it reached to the front edges and merged into the lapel and collar. The collar and lapels were covered with fur as much as possible, sometimes as a fur trim up to the hem, simulating a fully lined faux fur. Usually the collar was made as a shawl collar without a lapel cut. Otherwise, too, the models were male-conservative, the biggest difference was mostly in whether the coat was single-breasted or double -breasted and in the fabric qualities and colors. There was a larger selection here: combed fabrics, satin, smooth crepe and twill, monochrome or in mixed colors such as otter brown, bleu, marengo or deep green. Over time, darker colors were chosen, especially black. Often the cuffs were made of fur. The sleeves were either only padded or also lined with fur. Types of fur with firm awn hair turn out to be problematic here, the fur begins to crawl against the direction of the awn, especially in narrow parts and light outer fabrics also in the torso.
Typical materials for the stocking were beaver fur , both natural (a distinctly men's material, traded as a pointed beaver) and plucked, nutria fur , otter fur , American sable or Virginian polecat , the Persian was also important . Slightly less expensive was, for example, depending on market conditions, Bisamrücken , raccoon fur , Australian Possumfell or American opossum . For lining almost all the commercially were skin types , for example, the light used frequently hamster fur , rabbit fur , or Bisamrücken -wamme, nutria and beaver, but also fur pieces .
A market report, as an example of the year 1928, a time of difficult economic conditions, found that the mink lining , which used to be so common for good men's fur, has now become a rarity. As so-called colored fur, muskrat back with an otter collar was the material sought after. For fine, light city furs, Sealbisam with a sealotter collar and, in cheaper versions, Sealelectric (black-dyed sheared rabbit fur) were the most popular. As remunerations exclusively black and Marengo Drapé (an elegant, noble woolen fabric) and were Melton (a Streichgarnstoff) used. There was a great demand for cheap furs. These were equipped with electric sides (rabbit belly pieces), Sealbisam head linings and electric collars, the price was rarely more than 100 to 150 marks. Colored fodder in medium price ranges of around 200 to 400 marks was in great demand. For this, muskrat forehead, muskrat cheeks and nutrias side lining in connection with electric seal bisam and beaver collar were mainly used. - The men's sport fur of the same length was differentiated from the faux fur. Made from English fabrics, the high-quality versions were lined with muskrat, muskrat or nutria and set with otters, muskrats or the best opossum. For the large amount in the medium price range, from good German Ulsterstoffen , they took hamster, Nutriette- (brown rabbit), marble - and fur piece of food, the collar beaver, Australian and Tasmanian opossum in the middle grades. The also very common cheap sports fur, usually shorter and also made of Ulster fabrics, had a short collar instead of the shawl collar preferred for long furs. In addition to cheap lambskin, mainly pieces of fur came into question as feed , such as marble side and marble pieces, lambskin pieces, nutria head and pieces of food. For the collar, a beaver substitute has been current for several years ( beaver lamb ?), As well as opossum tail collars and also opossum fur. Chauffeur fur and men's car fur had meanwhile been largely replaced by sporty men's fur.
Particular emphasis was placed on furs from Russian furriers, which were "hard to beat". In 1884 it was said: "In addition to the Chinese furrier work, we know the best: the sable and fox fodder from the imperial cabinet skinning in St. Petersburg ". In this context, however, 50 years later Schöps points out "that despite highly developed performance the Russian furrier worked more for the needs of the great masses than for the exquisite taste".
The exact removal of the pattern from a customer's coat has always been considered difficult work for a furrier . Up until the 1970s, the budding master furrier had to prove that he was not only able to remove the pattern perfectly, but also mastered the art of fitting ("knocking on") an inner lining himself. Although at that time the furrier usually no longer sewed himself and the feeding of the finished fur lining was now mostly entirely the responsibility of the fur seamstress who worked for the furrier .
The tailor's area of responsibility was largely separate from that of the furrier, and violations were strictly followed up in guild times. Either the customer came to the furrier with the finished coat to be filled and lined, or the tailor brought the unlined, custom-made work over to the completion with fur lining and fur collar, possibly with the pattern. Only the clothing industry offered fully lined furs for retail as early as 1900. It was not until around the 1970s that furriers themselves began to produce fabric coats and jackets for fur linings in large numbers.
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supporting documents
- ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and rough goods. XVIII. Tape. Verlag Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1949. Keyword "Gehpelz"
- ↑ Rudolf Toursel: The are gated , October 1965
- ↑ Effi Horn: Furs . Verlag Mensch und Arbeit, Munich 1968, p. 160
- ↑ a b Anna Municchi: The man in the fur coat . Zanfi Editori, Modena 1988, pp. 20-47. ISBN 88-85168-18-3
- ^ Dorothee Backhaus: Breviary of fur . Keysersche Verlagsbuchhandlung Heidelberg - Munich, 1958, pp. 179–180 (→ table of contents) .
- ↑ Editor: The new men's furs. In: Der Rauchwarenmarkt No. 108, Berlin, September 8, 1928
- ^ Paul Schöps: The German-Russian tobacco goods trade before the world war . Publishing house “Der Rauchwarenmarkt”, Leipzig 1933, pp. 28–29. Primary source Heinrich Lomer : The smoke goods trade . Leipzig, 1864.