Karaku skin

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Dyed Swakara Karakul Coat with Gold Sable Trim (2004)

The karakul skin or Persian skin is the skin of the lamb of the karakul sheep . It differs from other lambskins by its particularly curly or moiré hair. The coat is for fur purposes used.

→ Supplementary article: Persians

history

Stylized round curls on the headgear of Gudea , the prince of Lagaš (around 2120 BC)

Ancient statues from the Hittite period show kings with headgear, which, according to the way they are depicted, indicate Persians . Tobacco dealer Francis Weiss wrote that areas north of the Oxus ( Amu Darja ) have always been of great importance to the noble lambs. He interprets the term budge , which the English furriers used in the 15th century for fine lambskins, as a word derived from Boghery, which is probably Bukhara . Elspeth M. Veale also mentions “budge” in her work on the English fur trade, also as a black type of lambskin that was extremely popular in the 15th century, but gives the origin of southwest Europe and not the Uzbek Bukhara .

In 1742 it was reported that the Persians wore smaller hats trimmed with gray lambskin from Bukhara. From Samara, a large gathering place for lambs, it is known that the legs of the lambs were already being processed there at the same time, so that the fur, traded as Persian claw in the German-speaking area, was already in fashion. The first news about the production of Persian coats dates back to 1869, when the emir of Bukhara gave the Russian tsar three furs made of gray karakul skin as a gift. The image of a Persian coat is known for the first time from 1898, here referred to as a long jacket; a French magazine showed a broad-tailed model with a sable collar .

Today the skins, also known as karakul , come not only from the probable original home of Bukhara or from Arabia, but above all from Namibia, the area of ​​the former USSR and Afghanistan. Namibia mainly supplies the flat, moirated, broad-tail-like skins, Russia the classic, more curly goods and Afghanistan the mostly slightly lower valued Karakul, which is slightly more open in hair appearance.

Persian claw collar and muff (Leipzig, 1913)

The triumphant advance of the karakulfell began after the bluewood dyeing process for Persians was introduced in 1870 . Until then, this type of lambskin was not one of the noble fur of the tobacco trade. After it was possible to dye the fur shiny deep black and also the previously translucent white leather black, the Persian was one of the most popular types of fur of its time. This was later mainly the case in the Federal Republic of Germany, so that it was then considered a classic “German” fur until it was replaced by the mink in the 1970s. Since around 2000, there has been increasing demand for it, especially in the new eastern markets, which is expressed in a significantly higher price of fur.

Fur trimmings , especially those made from Persians, were part of the fashion for curly and moiré fur types , until it was replaced by long-haired pelts in the mid-1960s. For this, the skins were also dyed in fashion colors, which a previous bleaching due to the natural brown black skins. This was satisfactorily possible after catalytically guided fur bleaching had succeeded in America in 1925. The skins previously treated with ferrous salts were discolored in oxidative bleaching baths, depending on the concentration used in a more or less clear way. Even before the Second World War, the first smaller batches of brown-colored Persians came onto the market. With the end of the curly collar fashion, the furriers increasingly used the light-colored skins for jackets and coats. While the shorter durability of the lightened skins played no significant role as long as they were mainly processed into collars, the fur finishers succeeded in increasing the abrasion resistance of the hair to an acceptable level around the 1960s. It became possible to decorate the color up to beige, based on this, numerous, natural-looking bicolor colors were created - one of them deceptively imitated the golden-brown Surpersian - as well as numerous further developments, such as the " Ombré " design also used by Indian Lamm . In 1964, the company Märkle & Co. (Marco) from Fürth applied for a patent for a color refinement of natural black fur skins, which they named Royal Dark . With this blue-black shade, advertised as the “new black”, she had some success until the great Persian fashion was phased out.

In the 1930s, Russian Persian was an important part of fur fashion. The skins came to Germany and world trade through the company Impex, which was founded especially for this purpose . In 1933, when business was already bad, Grigori Butzmann , its managing director , who had a South American passport, was no longer able to renew his residence permit, the company was dissolved. As before, German buyers had to travel to Moscow to go shopping again. Then there was a surveillance agency for tobacco products under the National Socialists that issued special permits for imports from Moscow. The quotas for domestic consumption became smaller and smaller and ceased completely in 1937, only goods for re-export were allowed to be imported, and some Persian assortments were only very rarely approved for retail fruityers. This stopped as early as 1938 and Russian goods disappeared completely from the German market. Smaller remaining deliveries from old contracts also had to be exported.

They are processed into all kinds of clothing, and in recent years increasingly into turnable parts with a velouted or napped leather side. As with the mink, all parts that fall off when processing the fur are used; Also in the Federal Republic in the post-war decades Persian claw coats and Persian piece coats were traded in large numbers as inexpensive furs. The idea of ​​using the claws from the Persian is said to have originated in Paris at the beginning of the 20th century.

Fur types

  • Bukhara fur (Russia)

  • Swakara rawhide (Namibia)

  • Colored Afghan Karakul Furs (Bundles of Fur)

There are a variety of curl shapes. The once so popular, larger curl variants are currently much less in demand, fashion now prefers the flat moiré Swakara from Namibia. The skins come from animals that are a few hours to a few days old, before the curls dissolve and become strands. The similar skins of premature or stillborn Karakul sheep are called broadtail or more precisely as Persian broadtail or Karakul broadtail . A wide-tailed skin with very little drawing and thin leather is called a galjak . The flat skins of normally born Namibian Karakuls are sometimes still offered with the old name broad-tailed Persian . A center of broad-tailed processing was Israel until around 2000. In particular, came from there with the hand-sewn bodysuits , fur semi-finished products for a coat or jacket.

Persians, broad-tailed and the better qualities of the half-Persians, for example Shiraz and Baghdads, are also known as noble lambskins because of their higher value . The collective term for all finer types of black lamb that came to trade from Persia, Bucharey, Cirkassia, Russia or Ukraine was once Baranken , Baranki, also Baranjen and Parangen (from Russian Baran = mutton), Russian: Merluschki (in Russian a General term for lambskin, for the Persian-like skins of the same name). This included Persians, Astrakhan, Krimmer and the finer Ukrainian varieties.

The most important types of curls are the rib, the tubular curl, the cigarette curl, the pipe curl, the caterpillar curl, the round or bean curl, the broad curl, the corkscrew curl and the peppercorn curl. In the trade, other names were used for certain curl shapes that were particularly popular with customers, such as Berliner Locke, Pariser Locke, Wiener Locke, etc. Jury Fränkel's Rauchwarenhandbuch says: “Overall, it can be said that only experts - breeders, sorters in auction companies, dressers , Tobacco wholesalers - are familiar with these skins in detail. The furrier is offered pure assortments - coats and jackets - from the tobacco wholesalers under the name of the regions of origin ”. When the fur auction in April 2020 could only take place over the Internet at the time of the corona pandemic , mink pelts were bought relatively normally. A specialist newspaper reported: “The auction of Swakara skins online was only possible to a limited extent. This is mainly due to the inability to actually inspect the skins on site. "

The raw hides are always openly stripped and stretched on the market, salted and air-dried (South Africa) or pickled (Soviet Union, Afghanistan).

Although karakul are usually naturally black, the skins are usually also colored black. This increases the gloss and intensifies the black tone. At least until not so many years this finishing was done at least partly still with the original wood dyes from Logwood and logwood which simultaneously have a tanning property. The blue wood gave the Persian the Persian smell that was typical of the fur at the time, but was popular with connoisseurs. History says that in attempts in the 1870s, the Leipzig market helper, Almond, succeeded for the first time in refining Persian skins with wood dyes to a glossy deep black.

Almost black skins with, especially in their heads, “white” parts are traded as snow persians . There are also natural gray, natural brown and natural white skins. For many years it has been possible to bleach Persian skins and then dye them so that they are available in all fantasy and fashion colors. Natural browns are less attractive than black skins. The cause is melanin , which forms tiny, crystal-like pigments inside the hair, which have a different structure in black hair and are deposited there in a different place than in brown hair. If the melanin is completely absent, as in the case of white fur, there is also more or less a lack of attraction. White skins relevant for fur processing therefore always correspond to the moiré, non-curly broad-tailed type.

Russian karakul

  • Elizabeth Hughes Gossett, Persian-trimmed coat (ca.1930)

  • Three broad-tailed coats and one Persian coat (USA, 1938)

Typical of the fur shape of the Russian Karakul is the pointed, elongated, narrow head, the full length attached legs and the long tail (in contrast to the Namibian Persian with a short, square head, cut off extremities and a short tail).

In the years before the First World War (1914–1918), the following range was common for raw hides from Bukhara:

  • Jaquetny Parni . Bales of 164 skins.
More or less medium curl. Best selected goods.
  • Jaquetny Dvuchparny . Bales of 104 skins.
Usually a third to a half of the best variety, a third of medium quality. One eighth smaller, soft, curly goods of lesser quality, in Leipzig it was sold as the " top of the head ".
  • Golovka : Usually 200 skins are bales.
In the past this was the best product, later the middle, lower and lowest grades combined. In Leipzig they were called "heads" or "batch goods".
  • Flora . Bales of 164 skins.
The best selected curly skins. In Russia they were mostly used for better hats.
  • Shaposhny . Bales of 186 skins.
Good and lesser skins with drawn little curls. They were made into simple hats.
  • Kirpuk . Finest broad-tailed Persians. Due to the widespread cross-breeding, the number of these noble varieties was small. Because of the high prices for broadtail, the smallest and lighter skins were sorted together with them.

The most valuable and leading type of curly hair among the black Karakuls has always been “Jaketny”, next to “Kirpuk”, “Caucasus” and others.

The brown Surpersians , which have the most durable wool (also for carpets), are not just a color, but also a quality variant . Different natural colors give the fur a special color effect, whereby the hair base is darker than the ends of the hair. With Silber-Sur, for example, the ends of the hair are cream-colored, light yellow or white; at Golden-Sur deep yellow. These skins were rated up to ten times the price of the best black karakul skin.

Further color variants are brown (main nuances red and light brown, brown and dark brown), Halali (two-tone, brown with black sides), Kambar (evenly gray-blue-brownish), Sedinoi (dark to black-gray with a narrow, gray grump), Gulgas or Guligas - the name means "flowers" (combination of brown and white hairs of different shades), snow (dark gray with white especially in the grunt, increasing towards the head).

In 1969 the Russian tobacco company V / O Sojuzpushnina published the registration of the trade name Bukhara-Karakul-USSR for Russian Persian pelts. The use of the name may only be used for items of clothing and accessories made from these skins that can be proven to come 100% from the USSR, belong to the provenances of Uzbekistan , Turkmenistan and Kazakstan and meet certain quality standards.

A striking feature of the Russian Persians is the round curl. The percentage of ribbed pelts is smaller than that of the Afghan and significantly smaller compared to those from south-western Africa. However, years ago efforts were made to increase the number of flat curls.

According to Kroll / Franke, the auction offer in 1987 was around 850,000 skins, whereby the actual number was always several times that. P. 271 The trading company Sojuzpushnina wrote in a self-presentation around 1985: “Although approximately 6.5 million karakul skins are harvested annually in the Soviet Union, only 2 million of them are available for the international market. The bulk of the harvest, around 65 to 70 percent, is black bukhara. Gray Bukhara makes up about 12 percent of total production. The remaining 20 percent of the Bukhara harvest are of other extraordinary colors. Of these, Sur is the most important and the pride of the Soviet Karakul breed. In addition to many shades of brown, there are also the pink variations that have beautiful Uzbek names like Guligas, Kombar, Khalili. "

Broadtail, Persian broadtail

Russian broadtail skins
Spread-out Persian broad-tailed coat, around 1990

Broadtail skins without additional designation of origin come from prematurely born, abnormally carried Karakullammers of Russian or Afghan origin. The quality is very different according to the differently developed coat pattern and the price depends heavily on the fashion-related demand.

There is a separate range for broad-cocks, which has been changed again and again over the years. 1964 was sorted as follows:

  • Russia
a) blacks
1. Karakulcha (quality: thin (thin))
2. Karakul karakulcha (quality: strong (thickness))
Classification of grades 1 and 2:
I: largest variety; best even drawing; most beautiful shine
II: a little flatter; Drawing not so evenly
III: smaller, even flatter; Irregular drawing
Galjak: very flat (classification only for type 1)
Damaged
b) grays
Qualities: Flat and Thick. If the offer is too small, however, only one variety is offered
c) Colored
Brown, sur, etc.
  • Afghanistan
a) blacks
1. Thin (quality: thin); 2. Thickness (quality: stronger)
Classification of grades 1 and 2:
I: Regular
II. Dubar
III: Second-class qualities
IV. Piebald; badly damaged etc.
b) grays
Basic range and classification like blacks
c) Colored
Brown, sur, etc.

Afghan karakul

Lowest quality Afghan Persians (rejects) on a market in Kabul , 2010

The texture and size of the curls of the Afghan Karakul are roughly the same as those of the Russian provenance of the Turkmen Persians, but the shape is often more irregular. The curl is covered or overgrown by small hair tips, which usually affects the effect of the shine, the sides are usually less curled. The head ends in two lobes formed by the cheeks, the skins are lighter than the Turkmens.

A comparison of one-day-old karakull lambs born in Iran in 1970 with karakuls from Namibia comes to the conclusion that the hair of the Iranian lambs is consistently significantly longer and stronger than that of the African Swakara. It was also evident that in Namibia the breeding was carried out much more purposefully for certain hair qualities. In general, the study came to the following statement: “The shorter the hair, the smaller the curl and the duller the shine of the coat; the longer the hair, the bigger the curl and the brighter the shine ”.

Black and gray karakul are bred in Afghanistan; The first new breeds (light beige, fawn) came on the market as early as 1966, but no significant quantities are known. The main varieties of black Karakul at the London auctions are Nazutchka, Arghul, Chaqmaci, Karakulcha, some with other sub-varieties.

The processing of the lambskins is done according to the Russian method: cleaning - salting or pickling - stacking - layering - drying. A factory further processing ( dressing , finishing ) does not take place in Iran. There are only small craft businesses that tan and process hides at the same time; most of them go on the market as fresh or dried hides.

In 1991, 60,000 Afghan Persians based on the Namibian sorting process were offered for the first time at an auction in Frankfurt am Main. The color names were white, extra light, light, sky, dark gray and extra dark. The quality levels included selected, 1, 2 and 3. The variety denominations were AO, AK-flat, AK, Anflat, AN and AM.

In 1987 around 750,000 pelts came from Afghanistan to the world market. Due to fashion and the unrest in the country, exports had meanwhile practically collapsed. More recent figures are not available; In 2007 Copenhagen Fur wrote in the auction report, "[...] large offer in Karakul from Afghanistan and Uzbekistan".

Swakara

Jacket, bag and cigarette case made of colored Swakara (2004)

In 1907 the first Russian Karakul sheep were brought from Germany to what was then German South West Africa , today's Namibia . In 1924 the first skins came to the Leipzig tobacco shop. The flat qualities resulting from cross-breeding and selection are referred to in the branch as broad-tailed Persians because they are similar in structure to the much flatter and thin-leather Russian broad-tailed skins; there are hardly any actual broadtails in Namibia.

Right from the beginning of karakul breeding in what was then South West Africa, the skins were offered on the international market as South West African Persian Lamb (SWAPL), in Germany as South West Persian. In 1966 an advertising agency was hired to look for a name that was catchier, easier to handle and pronounced the same in all languages. The protected trade name S. W. A. ​​Persianer (South-West Africa) was replaced in 1969 by the name Swakara ( S outh W est A frican Kara kul), which was originally intended only for the American market . The tobacco wholesaler Jürgen Thorer had the brand name "swakara" protected in Germany for his group of companies; In 1979 the naming rights were transferred to the Namibian, semi-state Karakul Board. From 1966 onwards, certain top qualities of Southwest African Persians and broad-tailed (probably broad-tailed Persians) were offered under the quality designation Swakara. In the meantime, the trade name Swakara has also been declared the official name for the breed line by the breeders' association (Swakara-Karakul).

In 1937, the one million mark in fur production in South West Africa was exceeded by at least 100,000 pelts. In the previous year the value of the country's total export of karakul skin was £ 3,106,900. First up were diamonds, at 895,500 pounds. When it comes to agricultural exports, the karakul skins led by a long way. Since the time after the Second World War, South African Persians have been achieving better prices on the world market, at that time dominated by the Federal Republic of Germany, than the curly skins from the original home of Russia. As early as 1954, nine years after the end of the Second World War, around 38 percent of the skin harvest was imported into the Federal Republic, in 1958 it was already 55 percent (1,900,000 skins worth about DM 45 million DM). A further increase was expected. Of the 3.5 million pelts produced around 1960, 2.5 to 2.8 million came from South West Africa, now Namibia, the rest from the South African Union.

The name "Persianer" has also been regarded as protected since 1924 after the Leipzig Chamber of Commerce and Industry decided in an expert report that "Persians in the sense of trade should be considered to be Persian fur of Russian-Bukhari, Afghan and South West African origin".

In strict breeding experiments, the breeder Thompson developed the curly types "Watered Silk" (WS) and "Shallow Curl" (VL). The development of today's fur type took place in three stages:

  1. Curly Persian, also known as the "classic Persian"
  2. Ribbed Persian
  3. The flat, broad-tailed Persian with the "elegant" moiré pattern.

A special feature in the trade was that the entire harvest was always sent to the five auctions of the Hudson's Bay Company , Anning and Eastwood & Holt in London without, as usual, a price reservation or withdrawal of the goods. In the meantime, this led to the fact that when the fashion switched to mink fur, people quickly switched to meat production. This was exacerbated by the fact that meat consumption rose with the income of the black population. In 1986 the system deviated from this system for the first time for white and brown Swakara, as the bids no longer covered the cost price; they were sold according to hidden offers at a predetermined minimum price. Initially, buyers from the fur traders traveled through what was then South West Africa, later the fur was collected in Windhoek and sold there according to the best bid until the present solution was found in the 1930s, in which the breeders' cooperatives collect the fur and send it to London.

  • The shades of the gray Swakara:
Extra Extra dark (very, very dark gray). The best qualities of this shade show a good contrast between the gray pattern in the middle of the fur and the almost black sides.
Extra dark (very dark gray). Here the color is almost evenly distributed over the entire fur and the difference to the dark sides is less evident.
Dark (dark gray): The gray color predominates
Medium (medium gray). An absolutely gray coat, in the better qualities with a blue cast.
Light (light gray). The paleest shade of gray. The weaker qualities are mixed with white and are also called "milky".
Greybrown (gray-brown). A very rare color in Swakara, made up of gray and brown hair that blends into each other. The coat color is otherwise known as "guligaz".
  • The shades of the brown swakara:
Extra dark (very dark brown). The darkest brown color, it is described as "chocolate brown".
Black brown . Well-drawn skins are relatively rare, they come in many variations. The black color is sometimes dominant.
Dark bronze (dark bronze ). The real brown color is predominant here.
Medium bronze ( medium bronze ). The brown color is now completely dominant.
Light bronze ( light bronze ). The color tends to be less reddish than medium bronze.
Oyster (Dark ). An unusual, but in many cases very attractive color with a hint of dark purple.
Oyster (light ). A much lighter color with a bluish shade of purple, completely different from the generally recognized colors.
Medium / Light . Shades of brown in which the reddish hue is less evident.
Extra Light (very bright). The paleest of the browns, also known as "Camel" (camel colored).
Gold Tipped (Dark ). A two-tone variant, the dark background is highlighted by the attractive golden hair tips.
Gold Tipped (Light ). The natural brown is enhanced by the attractive golden hair tips.
  • White
Pure white types are specially sorted; slightly speckled pelts are kept separately.
  • The hair types of the Swakara
Curl types
L Small middle curl, soft / woolly character.
G Small, even, firm central curl with character.
A long, drawn curl of very good character.
K Large, even curls with character in the better varieties.
N Very large, even curl with a good pattern in the better varieties.
RC Overgrown curls with character in the better varieties
Ribbed types
C Small central rib with a pronounced pattern.
T Large rib with a distinctive pattern.
V Very large rib with a pronounced pattern
Russian with hat from Krimmer (1917)
Semi-flat types
F Exquisite small, flat curls with character.
M Small to medium flat curls with character in the better varieties.
KF Large, flat curls with character in the better varieties.
NF Very large, flat curl with character in the better varieties.
RB Overgrown wide flat curls with character in the better varieties.
Flat types
D / lt broad-tailed type, particularly light.
S Light-leather galjak with a little pattern.
P Light leather with a well-defined pattern.
D / flat flat broad-tailed type, very light.
D Slightly higher-haired broad-tailed type, medium weight.
O Broad, flat pattern, sometimes very broadly drawn in the lower varieties.
RF Heavy flat curl with a wide pattern.

In 1986 the annual volume was just under one million skins, in 2007 it is stated on the website of the Namibian agricultural organization Agra as 140,000. By the beginning of the 1980s, production was much higher again. The amount is currently being increased again in order to meet the increased demand. The remaining breeders kept only the best animals during the period of decline, so that the average coat quality is much better today than in the prime time of Persian fashion. (Status 2011)

In 2012, the breeding community again recorded record prices for their moirated Persian type. 118,000 skins were offered at an auction in Copenhagen, the highest average selling price to date was 654.20 Namibian dollars per skin (around € 55.50). In April 2017 the average fur price was 500.94 Namibia dollars.

  • Half-Persians are curly lambskins from fat sheep and from crossbreeds from other origins. Depending on their origin, they have names such as Krimmer , Shiraz or Bessarabic lambskins . Indian lambskins form a separate category and are not referred to as half-Persians.
  • The different Karakul trade varieties (original from the fur trader Jury Fränkel (English, before 1972))
  • Karakul (Persian) varieties USSR-Afghan-Swakara (2) .jpg

processing

Persian is usually processed with the head down ("overturned") in order to achieve a shiny hair appearance.

  • Working a persian coat

  • Straightening a fur

  • Serrated or curved cuts for cutting

  • Strips of fur

  • Sewn Persian attachment sack

  • Longitudinal spikes to juxtapose and move the fur strips (click on the picture for a differentiated description of the
    work)

  • The sewn coat is stretched wet

  • A natural Persian coat in 1965

Data, facts

Karakul military cap and collar ( Azerbaijan , 2019)
  • In 1914 , leading international tobacco wholesalers used the following names to announce the noble lambskins and similarly curled lambskins they had manipulated:
1. Otto Erler , New York: "Krimmers, Persians, Broadtails, Astrachans"
2. Eisenbach Bros. & Co., New York: "Persians, Astrachans"
3. G. Gaudig & Blum , New York - Chicago: "Broadtails, Persians, Astrachans"
4th FL Mertens, Leipzig - St. Petersburg: "Specialitien: Persians, Broadtails, Astrachans etc."
5. Schulof & Co., New York "Caraculs, Persians"
6th J. Schütz, Vienna: "Broadtails, Persians, Astrachans"
7th Theodor Thorer & Co. , New York: "Caraculs, Persians"
8th. HF Wagner, New York: "Broadtails, Persians"
9. Joseph Ullmann, New York: "Persians, Broadtails, Caraculs".

The name “Persianer” only came into its own shortly before the First World War (1914–1918); previously “Karakul” was used almost exclusively. After the First World War, when Karakul skins became more and more popular, the term Persian prevailed in Germany without exception, while Karakul remained in Russia. Towards the end of the 20th century, trade began to return to the old name Karakul for the Namibian Karakuls in addition to the name "Swakara".

Web links

Commons : Persian Pelts  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Persian fur clothing  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Persian Broadtail Skins  - Collection of Images, Videos, and Audio Files
Commons : Persian Broadtailskin Clothing  - Collection of Images, Videos and Audio Files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Francis Weiss: The Sheep Aristocracy. In: All about fur. Issue 9, Rhenania-Fachverlag, Koblenz, September 1978, pp. 74-77.
  2. ^ Elspeth M. Veale: The English Fur Trade in the Later Middle Ages . Clarendon Press, Oxford 1966, p. 134.
  3. ↑ Wolf-Eberhard Mourning: Karakulschafzucht. Association of allotment gardeners, settlers and small animal breeders, Berlin Central Association, specialization: noble fur breeders (publisher), 1967, p. 9.
  4. ↑ Thorer & Co. (Ed.): 75 years of Thorer paint . Offenbach am Main, 1958.
  5. ↑ Editor: Mink clothing - the hit for over ten years. In: Pelz International. Issue 4, Rhenania-Fachverlag, Koblenz, April 1984, p. 34.
  6. ↑ a b Anton Ginzel: The development of Persian dyeing. In: All about fur. Issue 11, Rhenania Verlag, Koblenz November 1981, pp. 14-15.
  7. ↑ Patent 1,281,394, "The patent started on April 12, 1964. German Patent Office."
  8. ^ Philipp Manes : The German fur industry and its associations 1900-1940, attempt at a story . Berlin 1941 Volume 4. Copy of the original manuscript, pp. 314, 318–319 ( → table of contents ).
  9. ^ Friedrich Jäkel: The Brühl from 1900 to World War II. In: “All about fur” No. 3, March 1966, Rhenania-Verlag, Koblenz, p. 200.
  10. ↑ Walter Langenberger: Is peace an illusion? Israel during and after the Yom Kippur War. In: All about fur. Issue 3, Rhenania Verlag, Koblenz 1974, pp. 86-88.
  11. ↑ Paul Schöps: lambskins and sheepskins. In: The fur trade. 1957, No. 4, Volume VIII / New Series. Hermelin-Verlag, Leipzig / Berlin / Frankfurt am Main 1957, pp. 267–289.
  12. ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelzlexikon XVII. Tape. Alexander Tuma publishing house, Vienna 1949, keyword “Baranken”.
  13. ↑ Paul Schöps: Trade with lambskins around 1800. In: Das Pelzgewerbe Jg. XVII / New Series 1967 No. 1, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., Pp. 24-29. Primary source: Untitled “Handbook of goods science with detailed chapters on smoking goods”, Erfurt 1801 (probably D. Johann Krünitz: Economic-Technological Encyclopedia ).
  14. ↑ a b c d e f g Christian Franke / Johanna Kroll: Jury Fränkel ’s Rauchwaren-Handbuch 1988/89 . 10th revised and supplemented new edition. Rifra-Verlag, Murrhardt 1988.
  15. ↑ Copenhagen For April 21-28, 2020 . In: Pelzmarkt Newsletter of the German Fur Association June 20, 2020, Frankfurt am Main, p. 2.
  16. ↑ Wolf-Eberhard Mourning: White Karakuls. In: Brühl. November / December 1982, Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, p. 38.
  17. ^ Paul Schöps: Karakullammfelle am Weltmarkt . Disposition for the manuscript, for “Archive for Pelzkunde” ( G. & C. Franke Collection ).
  18. ^ V, O Sojuzpushnina: Advertisement in: The fur industry. April 1969, p. 52.
  19. ↑ In: Bukhara Karakul USSR. V / O Sojuzpushnina, Moscow, Leningrad, undated (1981/82 according to the enclosed leaflet Bukhara-Karakul - the fur for beginners ), p. 9.
  20. ↑ HE Matter ao: Karakul, Breitschwanz and Persianer . Hermelin Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., 1968, pp. 54-56.
  21. ↑ a b Mahmoud Fouladi-Nejad: The Influence of Hair Thickness and Hair Length on the Fleece Character of One-Day Karakullämmer of an Iranian Population. Compare Iranian and South West African breeds . Inaugural dissertation at the Justus Liebig University of Gießen, 1971, p. 10.
  22. ↑ No author's name: Historical re-sorting of Afghan caraku skins. In: LPT-Journal 11/1991, CB-Verlag Carl Boldt, Berlin, p. 40.
  23. ^ In: Winckelmann Pelzmarkt. Winckelmann Verlag KG, Frankfurt am Main, December 21, 2007.
  24. ↑ swakara® - Karakul - Gift from the Arid Land - Namibia - 1907-2007 . Advertisement Swakara, unknown publication, pp. 164–165, transmitted by Agra Pelt Center - Karakul Board, on September 16, 2008 (English). Primary source: (G) van Wijk 2007.
  25. ↑ If you do not state the author, do you have ten minutes? In: All about fur. No. 5, May 1966, Rhenania Verlag Koblenz, p. 86.
  26. ^ Namibian Government changes breed name from karakul to swakara. Copenhagen Fur News, April 24, 2012 Retrieved July 12, 2012.
  27. ↑ Otto Nauen: The Karakulzucht in South-West-Africa. Your relationship with Leipzig. Publishing house Dr. Paul Schöps, Leipzig 1938, p. 20.
  28. ↑ Without Autorenangabe, with the note as a source was used which was released in the publishing FC Mayer, Munich / Solln book "The Karakul sheep" of Frolich / Hornitschek : fur and silk . In: Die Pelzwirtschaft No. 4, Frankfurt am Main, April 1960, p. 178.
  29. ↑ Editor: New sales system for white and brown Persians. In: Pelz-International. Issue 7–8, Rhenania-Fachverlag, Koblenz August 1986, p. 50.
  30. ↑ Hans Jürgen von Hase: Development and future of the Swakara production. Presentation from 12./13. February 1976. In: All about fur. Issue 4, Rhenania-Verlag, Koblenz April 1976.
  31. ↑ Hudson's Bay and Annings Ltd., London (ed.): Swakara Assortment and the Natural Colors of Swakara . 1976. (Table of Contents) .
  32. ↑ AGRA, agricultural cooperative in Namibia (also Karakul breeders) ( Memento from September 3, 2011 in the Internet Archive ).
  33. ↑ allafrica.com: Namibia: Swakara Industry to Go North-West of Namibia. allafrica.com Farmers earned Namibia more than N $ 32 million in foreign currency at the second Swakara auction in Denmark in 2012. Swakara set new price records at the auction in Copenhagen, Denmark, with the highest ever average price of N $ 654.20 per pelt. A total of 118,000 pelts were sold during that auction. January 22, 2013 (English) Retrieved January 23, 2013.
  34. ↑ [1] Prices for Swakara pelts have fallen slightly - the big sellers are spotted pelts . Allgemeine Zeitung Namibia, September 26, 2017.
  35. ^ Insertions in: Fur Trade Review , New York, November 1914. Secondary source Paul Schöps: Karakul-Lammfelle am Weltmarkt . Manuscript, 1975, probably unpublished, G. & C. Franke collection .