Fur trim

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Red fox trim on collar and cuffs (2018)

As fur trim in the strict sense are especially with fur occupied collars or hoods understood. In broader terms, the term refers to any fur application applied to textile clothing. In addition to the collar, the collar and front edges, the sleeve edges or cuffs, the hem and the pocket edges are preferred. In particular, the fur collar, instead of being sewn on firmly, can be made loose or removable.

In the case of a fur jacket or a fur coat, fur trim means an upper collar made from a second type of fur .

General

If the fur trim is trimmed, i.e. a border around the edges of textile clothing, this can be a continuation or the visualization of a fur lining to the outside, or just covering the edges. Frequently, even with a fur-lined item of clothing, a more valuable or more attractive type of fur is chosen for the trimming or the collar trim than for the lining. A special form of the fur collar is the bell-like falling wave collar .

history

The occupation of dresses and coats has a long tradition. Stone age paintings in the cave of Altamira in Spain show hunters with trousers covered with goat skin .

In ancient times there was little fur among the higher classes, only the rural population, especially the shepherds, used sheep , goat or fox fur to keep them warm .

That changed completely after the so-called Great Migration (around 375-568). Charlemagne was simple in his way of life and reprimanded the cost of clothing at his court, but his coat was trimmed with fur, in keeping with the times. Court attire became pompous, with ceremonial court attire instead of a simple doublet. Sable , marten and ermine were named as the most important types of fur for trimmings and lining , less often in Germany polecat, weasel and fox. In the emerging bourgeoisie, merchants and craftsmen soon dressed themselves more or less in fur. The clothes of that time were Heuke , Tappert and Schaube . They were lined with Grauwerk (Feh) or even more valuable varieties. Mighty, fur-trimmed collars adorned the clothing on the outside. With less expensive designs, a wider or narrower trim was sufficient. However, the fur was almost always part of it, be it just as a narrow strip that bordered the hood, a neckline or the slits in the coat.

In some places, pure fur clothing seems to have been seen as a sign of frugality and simplicity, while refined trimmings are already considered a luxury. The Florentine chronicler Giovanni Villani reported from the 13th century : “In the period mentioned (1260) the citizens of Florence lived soberly ... and spent little. They dressed themselves and their wives in coarse shawls and many wore the bare fur without a shawl… ”Throughout the Middle Ages , the first place under the fur-lined or trimmed outer garments was a sleeveless coat. When at the end of the 14th century the fashion shifted to wide garment shapes and the Tappert came up for men, there was plenty of fur lined and trimmed. The incisions and edges, the lower and the side, the necklines and the sleeve slits were almost always trimmed with fur. This hardly changed when, in the second half of the 15th century, the European costume became narrower again. In the 15th century, fur was found, among other things, on the pointed necklines and the hem of French / Dutch women's clothes. In Germany the fashion was more modest, the clothes of the 15th century had a fur border on the small, round neckline. While in Italy the men of the 15th century often wore a fashionable, fur-trimmed costume, it was relatively rare for women.

French cavalier, 17th century

With the advent of the Schube in the last two decades of the 15th century, the fur was no longer just a narrow framing trim, but became a wide, sweeping shoulder collar, and as a lapel on the front edges, it also showed a magnificent fur lining. In the second half of the 16th century, a decline in fur trimming began, which continued in the 17th century. The clothes became more casual. Where the fur border stayed, it narrowed. The fashionable gentleman , however, may have wore a half-length overskirt, with the side slits, the pocket cuts and the sleeves now also being trimmed with fur. In the last decades of the 17th century, the Justaucorps dominated men's fashion, a long body skirt. In the 17th century, trimmings played an even less important role in women's fashion than in men. In Holland, fur-lined and trimmed clothes were often worn in winter. Very dominant and characteristic of Holland, shown from around 1633, however, was a jacket that was apparently only worn in the house, probably the “most attractive part of Dutch women's clothing” at that time. It was made of colored atlas or velvet , edged with white fur. The type of fur does not seem to have been handed down, according to the apparently frequent use it was probably the abundant, inexpensive rabbit fur . It has also been suggested that it could occasionally have been downy feathers .

In the articles on dress codes , the fur collar was often opposed if it consisted of unauthorized, valuable material, such as good, that is, genuine sable. Central European women in the 17th century had a rounded, tapered collar that often reached to the shoulders, and which remained relevant until the next century, with which they could cover the deep cleavage. The name " Palatin " or "Palatine", supposedly named after the Lieselotte of the Palatinate , soon became the general name for fur collars. With the increasing fashion of the sleeve , collections of small fur accessories made from the same fur, so-called fur trimmings, also became relevant. These could be small fur ties , large scarves or loose collars, together with a fur hat , perhaps fur gloves , and almost always with a muff. In Strasbourg , the ladies wore lavish fur caps. Instead of a fur-trimmed collar, the protruding epaulettes of the collar skirt were trimmed or trimmed with fur.

At the end of the 16th century, the male costume lost its leading role in the development of fashion. There was little fur trim in men's fashion, and fur hardly determined the fashionable image. However, there are still pictures of men's coats and capes lined and trimmed with fur from that time. The cloak, which was adopted from the 17th century, was still in demand in the 18th century, together with fur trimmings. Occasionally there are images of a body skirt edged with fur with a fur collar. In contrast to the men, the fur trimmings among women increased in the 18th century. The women's costume began to develop on its own. After the fringes and braids had become obsolete from the Louis-quatorze era, which was the trend-setting French fashion for European fashion , the festive dress or manteau , an upper garment that opens at the front and exposes the petticoat , became popular instead trimmed with fur.

In many countries, fur was an essential status symbol on rulers' regalia, on secular and religious religious and official costumes. Within a hierarchy, the type of fur partially indicated the social rank of its wearer. Dominant fur types were ermine, feud and occasionally sable. In the case of the prince's or royal mantle, the tradition at some royal courts continued into the 21st century, as in other areas, too, recently under severe pressure due to the increased discussion about the right to use animals . The white fur of the winter hermaphrodite is trimmed on the front edges, perhaps also on the hem, usually as a continuation of the fur lining. The corresponding large collar is also trimmed with hermelin. Service costumes with fur trimmings, often also with fur linings, were the clothing of secular and spiritual religious orders , the scabbard or the coat of civil officials such as mayors , councilors and university heads . Among the clergy it was the Almucia of the canons and the mozzetta for the highest clergy. In the military uniform and on the soldier's furs, the fur trim occurs essentially only as a collar trim and hood trimmings. The pilot's jacket from World War II found its way into civilian fashion as a flight jacket or bomber jacket , either as a padded short jacket, as a fur jacket or with a fur collar.

  • Trimmings and lining made of dewlap (14th century)

  • Isabella of Portugal , ermine trimmings (around 1445 to 1450)

  • Venice, back trimmings (16th century)

  • Portrait of the philosopher Justus Lipsius , snow leopard stocking (after 1611)

  • Lynx stocking an old woman (1725)

19th century

A men's clothing item that was still popular in the 19th century was a warm house or dressing gown with fur lining and trimmings, in which people also liked to be portrayed. The dressing gown became a symbol of a comfortable Biedermeier period. This often included a fur-trimmed hat. In the second half of the 19th century, the house skirt was replaced by an elegant version without fur; it was now exclusively negligee clothing in which one could no longer be depicted. The usual fur-rimmed hat remained for some time.

The traditional costumes, in which the fur trim was represented differently, were quickly replaced by a western-oriented fashion. The fur trim was accordingly in the traditional costume of the Ottoman Empire , where the tried and tested were held for a long time. Up until the 19th century, expensive and exotic furs were often used as trimmings.

On the whole, the 19th century was a fur-loving one, and to a lesser extent this also applied to men's fashion. There were differences in the type of fur material used. A man's costume, which was essentially different from the previous one, no longer appeared. The most important item of clothing, possibly lined and trimmed with fur, was the coat, modeled on the riding skirt that came from England , commonly referred to as the Redingote . It has enjoyed great popularity as a long piece of outdoor clothing since the last decades of the 18th century and ushered in English supremacy in men's fashion. It was tailored, had inset lapels and lapels where the fur lining peeked out, provided the fur was not just a trimmed edge. The collar trim developed in the 1820s to 1830s into a wide, pelerine-like shoulder collar , single or multiple layers . This lush shape was preserved as a coachman's collar into the 20th century. In the 1830s came the Havelock , also from England , named after General Sir Henry Havelock . A coat with a half-length pelerine, which was worn in winter with fur lining, fur collar and fur cuffs, a high point of elegance in its time. Little by little, the Havelock became the garment of worthy gentlemen, primarily of a set age. It lasted, also preferred by artists, into the early 20th century, after fashion had actually given up the tailored coat a few decades earlier.

The fur-lined faux fur , a men's coat that has been worn until recently, only recently not under this name, competed . Depending on the fashion, it was sometimes longer or shorter, usually smoothly cut, less often waisted. The fur collar hardly changed its shape either. After the turn of the 20th century, the fur cuffs disappeared. Together with muted coat colors, there were fewer trimmings made of beaver , skunks or mink , with the now predominant black there were also colored seals or Persians . In the first half of the 19th century, the sleeveless coat was still popular, as it went through the respective fashion changes, especially the changing lengths. In his case, the fur trim usually continued below the fur collar on the edges of the coat. As in the 18th century, fur trimmings on men's skirts did not play an essential role. In particular, in illustrations from the 2nd quarter of the 19th century, one can see a fitted lap skirt not only with a fur collar and fur cuffs, but also with a fur border.

In the very eventful women's fashion in the first two thirds of the 19th century, fur and fur trimmings were used wherever possible. In addition to loose fur accessories such as muff, fur boa , fur stole and loose fur collars, there have been numerous collars and cloaks with fur trimmings since the end of the previous century. The fur-trimmed shapes varied from the stole to the scarf, from the small neck collar to the shoulder pelerine to lavish combinations of the last two. Krünitz wrote in 1803: “Until recently the palatines were mere strips of fur of little concern and low cost; but now they have taken the form of scarves, and put many thousands of shawls out of circulation, especially among Reychen women. Since they are something new and protect the entire upper body against the cold, they are extremely well received; and the great furriers' vaults think so diligently of supplies, variety and order of levels in the prices that one should believe that they have orders for whole regiments of women of all classes. "

In addition to the multiple fur-trimmed collars and scarves, various types of women's clothing, lined with fur or rimmed, were worn in the 19th century. As the fashion historian Eva Nienholdt put it, warm fur was an absolute necessity for chemise dresses made of thin fabrics . She mentions the "series" Incroyables et merveilleuses de 1814 "by Horace Vernet and Lanté as an example of the most important types of fur-trimmed outerwear of the early 19th century . [...] As we see the embellished coat dress à la polonaise with associated embellished Tschapka , the trailing hooded coat for the ball toilet and fußfreien, adapted to the clothes section, kurztailligen coat with very broad fur border, in which a female is dandy has shrouded the ice. " With the advancement of fashion around the middle of the 19th century, the fur trim came into its own. In the era of the hoop skirt , a sleeveless coat, usually three-quarters long, was often worn, with slits on the sleeves, which were adorned with a narrow fur trim on the edges.

In addition to the simple clothes with fur edges on the neck, sleeves and pockets as well as on the armpits, which were depicted again and again in the 19th century, there are parts that are perceived as bulky and overloaded today, "with restlessly extending contours that reflect the bulging and gathering of the skirt repeat, double lap parts or sleeve overhangs have these already conspicuous shapes due to fur trimmings , to which fringes and trimmings are often added , particularly emphasize ”. Fur trimmings on clothes were popular throughout the 19th century, and there were muffs and fur collars to match. In addition to the various collars made entirely of fur, small fur-trimmed shoulder collars were worn towards the end of the century. When, towards the end of the 1880s, fashion withdrew from overloading and draping became more economical, fur came back to the fore as the sole ornament. You can not only see the usual trimmings in the pictures, but the trimmings often slipped into the ornamentally playful. The trimming with fur strips, popular since the pre- crinoline era, has been revived in various variations. The fashion of fur trimmings had lasted for several centuries until the 1880s when fur worn with the hair outward became fashionable fairly quickly and on a large scale.

1900 to 1945

Over the centuries there have only been a few fur coats with the hair turned outwards, which is why we can only speak of fur fashion in the literal sense at the turn of the 20th century. Previously unused types of fur were added. The invention of the fur sewing machine made it possible to process fur much cheaper and more complex than before. The fur trim was not displaced by the new outer fur. Around the turn of the century, women were even more likely to use the flexible, loose fur shawls and fur necklaces , with which they were not as fixed as with a firmly worked coat or dress trim. By 1930 the trimmings had become so fashionable that the fabric production was the biggest buyer of fur skins. Around two thirds of world production was used for trimmings.

"The New Line" (1939)

The models shown at the Paris World Exhibition in 1900 were the first highlight of fur fashion . There also working techniques not previously used in the scope were Skinning shown. Thanks to the fur sewing machine, so-called skipping has made it possible to change fur skins to any length with an economically justifiable effort since the beginning of the 20th century. Since then, trimmings and trimmings can also be made for most types of fur without placing them on top of one another, which might disturb the appearance. Parisian couturiers dominated all of women's fashion; this was true, with few regional peculiarities, for all of Western fashionable clothing, including America. They also specified the use of fur trimmings and the current types of fur.

The men's fashion remained cautiously conservative, it became even simpler. In the previous century, the long coat and the shorter skirt were still occasionally bordered with fur, mainly in the first half of the century, but the only thing left on the faux fur was the collars that had become smaller. The fur hat that was often associated with it had become much rarer, with the exception of the northern and eastern European countries with their harsh winters. In addition, with the spread of the motor vehicle, in continuation of coachman and sleigh furs , there were sometimes huge, bulky motorist furs . In the moderate, textile version, they were usually also long and had a fur lining that was as warm as possible and a large, fur-trimmed collar. They disappeared when the cars were closed and heated. In the 1920s, fur trimmings appeared in conjunction with leather clothing, as a sports jacket and long coat, both of which were also particularly advertised for motorists. In the 1930s, men's fashion remained elegant, the fur was on the inside, it only played a subordinate role in the look of the outside.

The fur clothing of women increased more and more. Even in the warm season, fur accessories or trimmings on dresses and jackets made of fur were worn, successfully advertised as summer fur by the furriers . Since the last quarter of the 18th century, the beginning of the Belle Époque , ermine with attached, black-tipped tails has been one of the most common and striking fur looks. The fur trimmings have become less playful, they should only give the textile one final finish. This was especially true for the dress, where the hem, sleeves or neckline were bordered. In New York in spring the ladies of the “better society” wore large chiffon capes with high fur collars. Not only in Paris were dresses decorated with white foxes , white fox necklaces were worn with the dresses all year round, with heads, tails and paws. In the case of the fur-trimmed winter costume, the skirt hem may also have been separated with fur. In addition to the partly fur-lined winter coats, instead of a fur collar, you might have used a fur necklace made of fox, or, also often but less large, made of mink , marten or polecat , or alternatively a fur scarf or a fur tie .

In the Roaring Twenties, haute couture was reveling in fur trimmings again. Long-haired types of fur dominated the look of appropriately upgraded models. Trim on the hem and sleeves reached an opulent width. For example, a coat with a shawl collar made of white fox was impressive, continued along the overhang to merge into the hem, created in 1923 by Jacques Doucet for the actress Cécile Sorel. The white fox finish of the oversized sleeve framed the almost ankle-length coat. For the early 1930s, Anna Municchi even noted a “marriage between clothing and fur”, a connection that lasted for the entire decade. The fashion now changed very quickly, and the fashion designers made fur a mandatory part of it. “The line was already clear in the collections for the winter of 1931/1932: Patou's fine fabric coat had a collar with a single lapel, and the sleeves, from elbow to wrist, with astrakhan; Revyl's long dress, made entirely of turquoise velvet, had a kind of short coat and a double skirt framed by a black lynx; Vionnet's coats were enriched with a 'fichu' made from Persian. The Italian Anna Munnicchi said in 1988 "that the well-known Persian collar has often become a synonym for men's fur, at least in public memory". The curly, short-haired Persian also played a very important role at times. Popular in the first few years of the 20th century, from an Italian point of view, it was initially only available as the hem of the black Spenzer and on the gala uniforms of the Italian artillery.

In the USA, the fur industry succeeded particularly quickly in adapting to the increase in trimming fashion of the 1920s, while in Germany trimming production had been completely taken over by textile manufacture. The fur-trimmed coat was worn here in winter as in summer. Annual sales of $ 1¾ million were not only achieved in this branch of the fur industry, but sometimes exceeded. The representatives toured customers with collections that included three large suitcases. In 1925, a German study commission of the furriers visited a company that had seven travelers, each 1,800 meters in length, with a total value of 62,000 dollars. Almost all types of fur were processed, every color was tried and efforts were made to dye the fur in the same color as the fabrics. However, an agreement between the industry and the fur finishers stipulated that from a certain day in the year no new colors were brought onto the market. Too often it had happened that large quantities of a color that was suddenly no longer current became unsaleable. Innovations were also created by combining different types of fur, fox with goat skin , polecat with monkey or black with white fox. Low-quality fur material was made up in continuous ribbons of 6 yards each, more expensive material in tailored coat lengths. The fur trimmings were made in all widths, from ½ to 6 or more inches. Within a short time, the trimmings had almost completely replaced scarves and stoles, only fur necklaces were still in demand, mainly made of fox fur, as well as pine marten , stone marten and mink fur as well as hare fur .

After the Second World War, the Persian initially dominated the fur fashion of the Federal Republic before it was ousted by the mink. That applied to the fur coat and jacket, as well as the fur-trimmed collar. Maggy Rouff showed a fondness for leopard , which she used for travel coats , the fur being clearly visible in the large open musketeer cuffs, which contrasted with a very small collar; also for ermine, whose tails she used as a cockade on a very simply cut evening dress to liven up the shoulders. ”In 1931, Marcel Rochas saw a fox trim on a narrow, otherwise plain coat, no longer just as trimmings, but equally wide above the Hem and on the sleeves including the cuffs. Fuchs was the big fashion theme in general: “In the big fashion houses there were miles of Fuchs: He appeared in a spiral around dresses and coats, framed the shoulders as a double ring, attached or loose cuffs, put around as question marks, doubled when it circles and formed the sleeve the conclusion of the west. "

  • Arlette Dorgère, fox on leopard, France (ca.1913)

  • British architect, fur-trimmed robe (around 1919)

  • Hope Hampton, Arctic Fox , USA (1924)

  • "Elegant afternoon dress with summer fur ", Paris (1925)

  • Fox pieces shawl collar, Hungary (1930)

  • Madame B., sapphire mink , France (1932)

  • Fur appliqués on a costume jacket, Great Britain (1940)

1945 until today

Pope Benedict XVI Winter mozzetta, lined and trimmed with hermelin (2007)

Since around 1960, fifteen years after the end of the Second World War , fur linings were increasingly being offered again in the Federal Republic as prosperity increased and at the same time trimming fashion experienced a new heyday. At times, high-quality women's winter coats mostly had a fur collar and some also had fur cuffs.

In October 1950 advertised C & A Brenninkmeijer temporarily the supplier with the biggest fur sales in Germany, in a newspaper ad with the headline "Fur Lining again the height of fashion - again large fur trim at C & A", "coat with Feh -besetztem quilted collar, half on quilted lining, therefore especially warm for the young lady only 68.50 "DM. In the same advertisement a winter coat" with a large, fashionably decorative whitecoat shawl collar, only 118.00 "was shown. Even before the mink coat ousted the Persian in the Federal Republic of Germany, the mink collar dominated trimming fashion. In 1963 it was found that long-haired pelts had increasingly replaced the mink trimmings in previous years. This was accelerated that year by the increased price of mink fur . In 1963, the tobacco trade feared that “the industry would use other, cheaper fur instead of mink”.

Fashion-brave men soon wore outer fur, sometimes made of very conspicuous types of fur, especially for the members of the jet set when it came to attracting attention. The fur trim for the man, on the other hand, received little attention. Karl Lagerfeld himself, who designed the fur collection including men's fur for the Fendi fashion house , wore fur-lined coats made of loden . At the end of the 1970s, men's fur fashion, furs with the hair facing out, “fell asleep” for a few years. In the mid-1980s, men's fur returned once again, along with collar trimmings, especially on sporty jackets and trench coats .

Since the 1990s, hoods on women's and men's jackets have been trimmed with long-haired fur. In addition to imitation fur, fox skins in particular are used, especially sea fox , European red fox , raccoon and the more attractive but higher quality noble fox species .

Berlin occupation industry

Hausvogteiplatz (1889)
Fur manufacturer Arthur Wolf, Berlin, catalog page (1912/13)

After the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/71 , Berlin became Germany's leading fashion center. In Berlin-Mitte, centered on Hausvogteiplatz , in and around Kronenstrasse and Mohrenstrasse , there were important clothing manufacturers , some of whom exported their products worldwide until the Second World War, and clothing became the city's most important industry. The fur industry began to rise in the early 1880s when the fashion of necklaces, shoulder collars, scarves and short fur jackets came into their own. Fur trimmings formed part of ready-to-wear fashion from the very beginning, especially in the high-quality genre in the first decades. However, a major wholesale fur clothing industry only emerged with the upswing in textile clothing clothing, until then there were only a few smaller companies that produced bisque muffs and the like for trade. One of the first German companies to supply the fashion shops with fur trimmings in addition to conventional sleeves and shoulder collars was the H. Wolff company . However, the owners of the Feldheim & Goldstein company, founded in 1912, also introduced the cheaper Persian pieces and Persian claw plates into their clothing "with great success" . According to an expert at the time, these trimmings made of good, prefabricated fur boards were hardly distinguishable for the layperson from those made of fur, but made a coat far more salable in terms of price. Among the founders of the Berlin trimming and fur industry, companies such as AB Citroen , J. Abrahamson and Bernhard Reschowski have grown large and important over the years, alongside H. Wolff .

Some of the companies had their own workshops, the fur trimmings were either factory-made, but mostly outside, by so-called interim masters, and most of the time they were also processed there to make fabric. Furriers worked as interim masters with or without the master craftsman's certificate required for the retail business with their own production, but also owners of small furrier shops, who thus bridged the so-called "quiet time" of summer. Since the smaller, but partly also larger, furrier shops did not sell any textiles themselves, a Berlin furrier said in 1934: “The fur-trimmed or lined fabric coat is the most dangerous competitor for our branch”. - The garment manufacturer got the trimmings from tobacco merchants in Berlin and the Brühl fur trade center in Leipzig , directly or through commission agents . Some large companies were increasingly buying parts of their supplies directly at auctions, most notably at the Garlick Hill fur center in London with auction house Beaver House .

A familiar sight in the Hausvogteiviertel was the furriers and furrierswives with their big huck, the pickups wrapped in delivery blankets and the deliveries of the fully occupied coats and jackets. The stocking fashion was interrupted during the inflationary period (1914-1923) until it reappeared around 1928. The Berlin tobacco merchant Philipp Manes stated in 1941: "The German fur industry would never have enjoyed its proud boom if fabric manufacture had not had a major and decisive influence on the tobacco trade between 1928 and 1938 and had secured it for this ten-year period" .

Like most of the Leipzig tobacco trade, the clothing companies were largely owned by Jews. With the Aryanization of the factories, the expulsion and murder of their owners and partly Jewish employees, and the war, Berlin's importance as a clothing and fashion center was lost for the time being. In December 1938, after five years of systematic persecution, the entire Berlin fashion industry was in Aryan hands.

After the war, Berlin was divided into four sectors, and the three western zones of occupation were annexed to the Federal Republic in 1949. In the western part of the city, clothing has regained some of its importance, since 1950 with the so-called transit as the annual highlight. Accordingly, intermediate masters were again involved in the manufacture of trimmings on a piece-wage basis. The construction of the Berlin Wall in 1961 meant a turning point when a large part of the interim master craftsman businesses in East Berlin was suddenly cut off. The West Berlin furriers thus lost a large part of their workforce, who had previously commuted from east to west, for whom employment in the western part of the city was particularly rewarding due to the currency differential.

The fur wholesalers had withdrawn from Leipzig, which was located in the Soviet-occupied zone , and a new fur trading center was formed around Frankfurt's Niddastrasse . At the beginning of the 1960s there were hardly any German fur manufacturers there, but there were quite a number of fur workshops that made trimmings for industry. At the beginning of the 1970s, after the waning of fur-trimmed fashion for ladies' outerwear with the simultaneous beginning of extreme fur clothing sales, they could mostly easily be converted into pure fur clothing companies or at least into fur production workshops.

Types of fur

Mayor of Hamburg, Persian (1892)

The types of fur that can be used for trimming on cloth coats are referred to in the industry as "trimmings" or "trimmings". "Trim strips" are prefabricated fur strips for making up, for example for trimming hood edges. In fur clothing, possibly only in Austria, “movable fur trimmings” are pelts that are to be worn separately and are not sewn onto the garment, i.e. fur necklaces , boas , sashes , ties , loose collars and the like. Perhaps only in Austria the term "fur bandeau" was used for "a loop made of fur, [...] a fur ribbon that closes or extends the hem of a cloth coat".

Long-haired, decorative types of fur are particularly common, especially the various types of fox fur , for the lining of collars, which is primarily referred to as trimmings, but especially for hoods . In addition, the fur types preferred in fur fashion found their way into the trimming fashion of the time. The curly or moiré karakulfell , the Persian, from which one might not expect it, was again and again a popular trimming article. At the turn of the 20th century, Russian Persians even adorned the costumes of the Hamburg mayors in a very special way, the sleeveless coats of the Lübeck councilors were trimmed with mink.

In the 1930s, the fur of the South American and especially the North American possum , known as the " American opossum ", was particularly common for stocking purposes. A technical report from the time described in detail why it is so suitable for this and what is important for trimmings. It says there, among other things:

“The decisive factor for popularity is not the price, as important as it plays, but the character of the hair, whose main asset is its versatility. The American opossum is not a fur with an absolutely typical natural character, its hairline rather combines the characteristics of different animal species. For this reason it is possible to change the character of the fur by underlining desirable and suppressing undesirable species characteristics. The possible variations in the refinement of the opossum fur are more extensive than with most of the stacking fur. B. on Oberhaarlamm this superior. A lambskin retains its typical sheepskin character in every finishing variation. In the opossum, guard hair and woolen hair are so happily united that the fur can be very faithfully matched to the appearance of different types of noble fur, depending on the stronger or weaker emphasis on certain properties .
Naturally, the undercoat is pure white, the awn is black and strongly mixed with longer white guide hairs . The character of the long, hard awn matches the hair of the skunk, and for this reason the skunk is the oldest form of refinement. "

In the past, new breeds, but especially refinements, increased the range of different fur looks. In the fur industry, the term refinement encompasses the entire further treatment of the skins after the tanning process, before processing into fur products. By fur finishing one is able to imitate expensive furs by cheaper furs, which are particularly Finishing of Kanin - and lamb skins . The imitation of more valuable species is no longer important today. Above all, it is now possible to permanently dye trimming skins in all fashion colors to match the garments to be trimmed.

Most recently, long-haired skins were mainly used for trimmings. Above all, these were all kinds of foxes, raccoons , coyote skins , the skunk skin , which was once in great demand , was hardly noticed. With medium-length hair, because it is cheap and available in large numbers, the rabbit fur. In addition, to a lesser extent, nutria , feh , chinchilla , skins from the zoological family of marten, such as sable , pine marten , stone marten and polecat . Mink dominates the rather short-haired pelts . The muskrat, which is actually abundant in some areas through state-ordered hunting of the muskrat , is hardly used any more. Lamb or sheepskin is used in various hair lengths, straight- haired or as a curled Tibetan lamb and in all colors.

processing

Two Skunks, made into a collar (1895)

In a study in 1895 on skinning in Frankenberg , Saxony , shortly before the general appearance of today's, sometimes very elaborately and artfully made fur clothing with the fur on the outside, the author came to the view that making fur trimmings was “the most difficult, but also most rewarding work of the furrier ”. In the 1860s to 1870s, almost no fur-lined item was made there without a trim. His observation that, in order to obtain complete equality on both sides, the skins have to be moved, remained valid. In the case of “mirror alignment”, the fur is divided in the middle, in the grot , lengthways, one half goes on the right side, the other on the left side of the garment.

The variety of trimmings enables a large number of different working techniques that have to be modified individually. In addition to moving, this includes letting out and letting in , a cutting technique invisible on the side of the hair to change the shape of the fur, or galoning , enlarging the area of ​​the fur through narrow strips of leather. For the purpose of stretching the fur moistened in the leather, it is also brought into the desired shape before it is matched according to the pattern. The sewing on the piece of fabric is done if possible with the fur sewing machine , in the tailoring perhaps with the quilting machine, otherwise with hand sewing.

maintenance

Except for those with specially designed tanning, fur skins must not be washed, as this would remove the fat that keeps the leather soft. The classic and most gentle fur cleaning is done with wood flour to which a cleaning liquid has been added, the so-called lautering. This is hardly possible with textile parts with fur trim. In the past, the fur was therefore cut off before the fabric part was washed and then sewn on again. Specialists are now able to chemically clean the fur-trimmed or fur-lined garments and in the process to grease the leather again.

Web links

Commons : Fur Trimmings  - Collection of images, videos, and audio files
Commons : Fur Collar  - Collection of images, videos, and audio files
Commons : Fur fashion categorized by years  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Author collective: Manufacture of tobacco products and fur manufacture . VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig 1970, pp. 469–471 (→ table of contents ).
  2. ↑ G. Thiébault: The art of fur trimmings. In: The fur industry , 1. January 1965, Berlin and Frankfurt am Main, pp. 92–94.
  3. ↑ a b c d e f Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and rough goods . tape XVII . Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1949, keywords “trimmings”, “movable fur trim”, “trim fashion” .
  4. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: Fur in the costume of the early and high Middle Ages. Chapter II of the episode: Furs in European clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 3, 1955, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Leipzig et al., P. 93. Primary source Cronica, Lib. VI , Cap. 69. Quoted in Floerke.
  5. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: Fur in the costume of the early and high Middle Ages. Chapter II of the episode: Furs in European clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 3, 1955, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Leipzig et al., P. 93.
  6. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: Fur in the costume of the early and high Middle Ages. Chapter III of the series of articles: Fur in European clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 5, 1955, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Leipzig et al., Pp. 163-169.
  7. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: fur in the fashion of the 16th century. Chapter IV of the Series of Articles: Fur in European Clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 1, 1956, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Leipzig, pp. 17-25.
  8. ↑ Frithjof Van Thienen: The costume of the heyday of Holland, 1600-1660 . Deutscher Kunstverlag, 1930, p. 97.
  9. ↑ a b c Eva Nienholdt: fur in the fashion of the 17th century. Chapter V of the episode: Fur in European clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 3, 1956, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Leipzig, pp. 110–119.
  10. ↑ Eva Nienholdt, The Fur Trade 1956/3. Primary source Strasbourg traditional costume book , approx. 1960: A maiden in Strasbourg costume goes to God's table and a fraw in a skirt .
  11. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: fur in the fashion of the 18th century. Chapter VI of the episode: Fur in European clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 5, 1955, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Leipzig et al., Pp. 235–245.
  12. ^ Andrea von Hülsen-Esch: Scholars in the picture: representation, representation and perception of a social group in the Middle Ages (example: statutes of the University of Montpellier). Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht, Göttingen, ISBN 3-525-35199-2 . Last accessed on December 7, 2019.
  13. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: Fur on the ruler's robe , on secular and spiritual religious and official costumes. Chapter X of the episode: Fur in European clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 3, 1958, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., Pp. 132-138.
  14. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: fur in the fashion of the 18th century. Chapter XI of the Series of Articles: Fur in European Clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 6, 1958, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Leipzig et al., Pp. 271-276.
  15. ↑ a b c d e f Anna Municchi: The man in the fur coat . Zanfi Editori, Modena 1988. ISBN 88-85168-18-3 .
  16. ↑ a b c d Eva Nienholdt: Fur in the fashion of the 19th century Part II. Chapter VII of the series of articles: Fur in European clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 2, 1957, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Leipzig, pp. 81-90.
  17. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: Fur in the folk and national costumes. Chapter IX of the episode: Furs in European clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: Das Pelzgewerbe 1958 No. 1, Berlin et al., P. 39.
  18. ↑ D. Johann Georg Krünitz's economic-technological encyclopedia […]. Berlin 1808, p. 329. Last accessed on November 27, 2019.
  19. ^ Incroyables et merveilleuses de 1814 , No. 29 . The trimmed coat dress à la polonaise with the matching chapka.
  20. ^ Incroyables et merveilleuses de 1814 . Dragging hooded coat for the ball toilet.
  21. ^ Incroyables et merveilleuses de 1814 , No. 20 . Ice skater in a short-waisted coat with an extremely wide fur border.
  22. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: fur in the fashion of the 19th century Part I. Chapter VII of the contribution result: Fur in European clothes. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 2, 1957, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Leipzig, pp. 81-90.
  23. ↑ Wolfgang Bohne: Development tendencies of the fur industry . Inaugural dissertation at the Philosophical Faculty of the University of Leipzig, 1930, p. 70 ( → table of contents ).
  24. ↑ a b c Eva Nienholdt: Fur fashions of the 20th century. Chapter VIII of the Series of Articles: Fur in European Clothing. Prehistoric time to the present. In: The fur trade. No. 5, 1957, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Leipzig, pp. 213-218.
  25. ↑ a b Anna Municchi: Ladies in Furs 1900-1940 . Zanfi Editori, Modena 1992, pp. 46, 95-129 (English), ISBN 88-85168-86-8 .
  26. ↑ Max Nasse: America's fur industry - results of a study trip by German furriers and fur manufacturers. Berlin 1925, pp. 22, 40-41, 44-45.
  27. ^ Rheinische Post , Düsseldorf, October 21, 1950.
  28. ↑ Falling demand for mink trimmings and more longhair skins in the trimming industry. In: Das Pelzgewerbe 1963, Issue 4–5, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., Pp. 160, 161.
  29. ↑ Arthur Wolf fur goods, extract from the catalog
  30. ^ A b Uwe Westphal: Berliner Konfektion und Mode - 1936-1939 - The destruction of a tradition. Edition Hentrich Berlin, 1986, pp. 19, 166. ISBN 3-926175-04-4 .
  31. ↑ Without an author's name: Die Berliner Pelzindustrie In: Der Rauchwarenmarkt No. 53, May 10, 1932, p. 2.
  32. ↑ Emil Brass : From the realm of fur . 2nd improved edition. Publishing house of the "Neue Pelzwaren-Zeitung and Kürschner-Zeitung", Berlin 1925, p.  290-291 .
  33. ^ A b c Philipp Manes : The German fur industry and its associations 1900-1940, attempt at a story . Berlin 1941 Volume 1. Copy of the original manuscript, pp. 8, 159–160 ( G. & C. Franke collection ).
  34. ^ A b c d Philipp Manes : The German fur industry and its associations 1900-1940, attempt at a story . Berlin 1941 Volume 4. Copy of the original manuscript, pp. 214, 234, 235, 238, 256 ( → table of contents ).
  35. ↑ Ohm: From the imperial capital. In: Deutsche Kürschner-Zeitung No. 10, April 5, 1934, p. 287.
  36. ↑ signed "JW" (John Winckelmann): The current function of the fur manufacturers from the point of view of the furrier. In: Winckelmann Pelzmarkt , No. 1340, August 16, 1996, Frankfurt am Main, pp. 1-3.
  37. ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and rough goods . tape XX . Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950, p. 109 , keywords “fur track”, “fur bandeau” .
  38. ↑ Images of the Hamburg mayor in robes with karakul skin ,
  39. ↑ Figure Lübeck senators with fur-trimmed capes (1913) .
  40. ↑ Without indication of the author: American opossum, the versatile stocking material. In: Supplement to Rauchwarenmarkt. No. 16, associated with the monthly fur trade. August 31, 1935.
  41. ^ Albin König: The furrier in Frankenberg in Saxony. In: Studies on the situation of the craft in Germany with special consideration of its competitiveness compared to large-scale industry . Volume 2, Kingdom of Saxony , first part, Duncker & Humblot, Leipzig 1895, pp. 319, 322.
  42. ^ Author collective: Der Kürschner. Technical and textbook for the furrier trade. 2nd revised edition. Vocational training committee of the central association of the furrier trade (ed.), JP Bachem publishing house, Cologne 1956, p. 43 (→ book cover and table of contents) .