jacket
That or the jacket - also: Sacco or jacket in which Switzerland also Veston , coat or Tschoope - is a part of modern, arisen in Western countries, men clothing . Like any jacket, it covers the torso and arms. Relevant elements are the Fasson , such as the reverse running collar is referred to, as well as the shutter on the front with buttons .
term
Jackets and jackets have been used synonymously in men's fashion since the late 20th century. The difference is occasionally stated that a jacket would refer to a suit jacket, i.e. jacket and trousers and possibly also the vest would be made and worn from the same material, while the jacket would be worn with trousers in a different color as a combination or one less formal trousers such as chinos or jeans . In this usage, the jacket corresponds to the English sports jacket .
Historically, the terms jacket and jacket emerged with two lines of tradition that have combined to form today's garment. The jacket was developed in the middle of the 19th century as a sporty variant from a frock coat shortened around the lap , but which had retained its waist . This contrasted with the straight, sack-like cut jacket, which was initially developed for the working class.
In men's fashion , a distinction must be made between blazers and jackets , while in women's outerwear all parts derived from men's jackets can be referred to as blazers .
materials
The jacket is traditionally made from virgin wool . In the 21st century, an admixture of a maximum of 5% of a synthetic fiber such as elastane can also be considered, which makes the cloth more flexible and less crease-resistant. Other natural fibers are cotton or linen . Both are particularly suitable for summer jackets. At this time of year, light wool forms such as mohair and cashmere are also used. In the lowest price segment, there are also jackets made of synthetic fibers, especially polyester , or blends of natural fibers and polyester.
Cut and shapes
The jacket is the most difficult element in a tailor's work . The task is to model the flat cloth over the three-dimensional human body. The chest, collar and sleeves must fit together and with the wearer. Traditionally, jackets were made by tailors for individual customers. The manufacture according to predetermined clothing size began with manufactories and their serial production in the late 18th century and became more widespread in uniforms with the mass armies in the 19th century. From the end of the 19th century, it was also gradually implemented for civilian clothing. One mixing method is made- to-measure clothing , in which, based on an individual measurement by the customer and according to his personal wishes, prefabricated patterns are only slightly adapted.
elements
Jackets consist of the front, side, back, sleeves and collar. Front and side can also be made in one. The front is fitted and the cut material has a pointed incision that begins at about the level of the middle chest and runs down to the pocket. It is closed with a seam in the course of production so that the fabric lies flat across the chest and waist despite the different circumference.
In the traditional jacket, the front is reinforced with inserts in order to always achieve a wrinkle-free fit even with light fabrics. A full insert over the full front, including the lapel and an additional patch in the area of the chest and shoulder is common. In between, a so-called shoulder support can be incorporated, which reinforces the hollowing of the shoulder area. Traditionally, the whole insert was made of stiff linen or horsehair , the plaque was made of horsehair. Both were connected to the upper material by pricking with innumerable fine stitches. In series production, pricking has almost always been replaced by gluing with fixing material since the 1960s . Depending on the cut or to compensate for the personal anatomy of the customer, there is also a flat or thick, stiff or light shoulder pad made of prefabricated elements or padding.
In 1975, Giorgio Armani created the "deconstructed" jacket, which does without any reinforcement of the front and the shoulders and achieves the shape exclusively through the cut and, if necessary, by ironing the cloth. This style became internationally known through Richard Gere, portrayed by Armani, in the 1980 film American Gigolo . Armani subsequently outfitted the television series Miami Vice and created a look that was regarded as typically Italian. Since then, deconstructed designs have been used extensively in summer jackets made of cotton or linen .
Styles
A distinction is made between the traditional single-row (buttons in one row) and the double-row jacket (buttoned over, i.e. overlapping fronts with buttons in two rows). Double -breasted suits almost always have a straight cut , while single-breasted suits, except for uniforms , are mostly cut with a round cut.
The number of buttons depends on the depth of the style. Jackets with two buttons are considered conservative and American, while those with three buttons are associated with the English cut. In the case of a short style, four or more buttons can also be considered.
The lapel allows a few variations. In addition to the shape of falling or (broken) rising lapels or a shawl collar , the width of the lapel strongly determines the appearance of the jacket.
When it comes to back slits, a distinction is made between the middle back slit (American cut) and the classic cut with two side slits (English version). Jackets that do not have back slits can increasingly be purchased in stores. However, these are rarely used in the higher-priced segment (especially for tailored suits).
Two outside pockets are placed or incorporated, rarely on the side of the jacket piping bags, usually Patten bags, to come on the left breast, the breast pocket, a welt pocket for a handkerchief . An additional ticket pocket can be used as a special form .
Jackets only have a back pleat in traditional costume , mostly as a box pleat like in the Styrian suit or the Miesbach traditional costume .
Development and fashion
The development of formal and informal men's outerwear and jackets was basically completed in the early days around 1880. Jacket and trousers were the actual clothing of the gentleman, while the shirt served as underwear to protect the outer clothing from dirt. Since then, fashion has determined the design of the style, although with a few exceptions, men's fashion never reached the diversity of women's fashion.
Formally dressed men still wore frock coats during the day and tails in the evening until the 1920s . The tuxedo was created around 1880, when gentlemen withdrew to smoke after dinner and replaced their tailcoats with a short jacket so that the women would not later be bothered by the smell of smoke. At the turn of the century, vests with a contrast to the jacket became fashionable, a white vest with a gray or black suit was considered particularly elegant. At the same time, today's turn-down collars prevailed on shirts, stand-up collars became rare apart from the dress shirt with its father-killer collar .
Before the First World War, lapels rose and fell with fashion: around 1910 there were very short styles, as early as 1913 the lapel went almost to the waist, which emphasized the waistcoat. After the war, men's clothing became more informal, and suits with jackets or jackets also became popular as daywear in more formal circles. Crown Prince Albert Edward and his grandson Edward Windsor were influential . Both of them often wore a single-breasted suit with a two-button jacket, often made of sporty fabrics, even in official shops. Because of his size, Albert Edward made the bottom button on the waistcoat and jacket, which was exposed, modern. Edward Windsor preferred narrow, naturally rounded shoulders and a light cloth, and for the first time he wore a sweater under his jacket. The preferred by both Glencheck -Substances were as Prince of Wales pattern known.
The war had made physical fitness an ideal, men often exercised and thus got a more sculpted body. Fashion adapted and became tapered, with the waist slipping up, shoulders often padded, the sleeves looser. The lapel rose and fell with fashion, sometimes the shirt and tie were emphasized by a deep lapel, sometimes high-necked suits with three or more buttons were considered modern.
During the Second World War and in the second half of the 1940s, suits in Europe became narrower due to a shortage of fabrics, with no turn-ups on the trousers and with narrow lapels. Already in the 1930s, and especially shortly after the war, the zoot suit emerged in the USA , with oversized, long jackets as the fashion of a counterculture of blacks, Latinos and a no longer adapted youth; this fashion was associated with music styles, especially jazz , for the first time . Similar approaches existed in European subcultures such as the Les Zazous in France and the German swing youth .
The 1950s were rather conservative, the English fashion was based on the styles of the interwar period, the suit with jacket finally prevailed over frock coats and tailcoats. Cuts were comfortable, fabrics were rather heavy.
From the mid-1960s and increasingly in the 1970s, an experimental fashion emerged that was geared towards youthful bodies. Styles changed faster, fabrics, cuts and colors wanted to attract attention. Suits were cut tightly, close to the body, but sometimes had wide lapels, for which appropriate shirt collars and ties were worn. New materials like polyester emerged.
As a counter-movement, suits receded in the 1980s, sportswear like sports suits became suitable for everyday use. In business life the jacket remained predominant, but loose cuts appeared and the suit was often replaced by combinations. Cord , tweed, and other textured fabrics were fashionable. In the United States, power suits became fashionable as more formal clothing and have been worn around the world through movies and television. They were designed for representation with broad, padded shoulders, straight cuts and heavy fabrics in dark colors.
Since the 1990s, the suit lost its importance. There where it was still worn, more noble materials appeared. Light yarn, cashmere or mohaire, classically elegant cuts determine the picture. The international men's fashion is determined by body-hugging, Italian cuts. The English tradition is considered conservative.
Combination with other items of clothing
The jacket is an informal item of clothing in terms of the dress code , also as a suit. On a formal occasion, only the tailcoat, or a cutaway during the day , is worn. The tuxedo is considered semi-formal . A dark suit is only an option for informal occasions.
Since the loosening of manners in the course of the 20th century, a suit with shirt and tie is no longer the only clothing with which a gentleman moves in public. In certain industries, however, suits are still part of business wear, even if the tie itself is becoming less important there. In other professions, shirts and jackets are expected , even without matching suit trousers , but as a combination with wool trousers or chinos . The jacket is also common with a sweater or in summer with a polo shirt or T-shirt . A jacket or blazer with jeans are considered casual and especially wearable in their free time .
Paletot
A special form is the jacket coat , better known as the paletot, which men used to wear more often . The Paletot is not a thick coat, but an elegant city throw made of suit fabric. It is practically a jacket that is extended to the length of the coat and is worn over the jacket.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Schweizerisches Idiotikon: Tschoope (Schoope) , August 8, 2012.
- ↑ a b Bernhard Roetzel : Blazer, jacket, jacket - what are the differences? stylebook.de, October 29, 2018.
- ↑ a b Claudia Besserdich: Jacket, jacket or blazer? What are the differences? When do you wear what? herrensache.com, September 19, 2018.
- ↑ Ruth Sprenger: The high art of men's clothing makers - tradition and self-image of a master craft. Böhlau Verlag, 2009, ISBN 978-3-205-77757-1 , p. 206.
- ↑ Ruth Sprenger: The high art of men's clothing makers - tradition and self-image of a master craft. Böhlau Verlag, 2009, ISBN 978-3-205-77757-1 , p. 221 f.
- ↑ Ruth Sprenger: The high art of men's clothing makers - tradition and self-image of a master craft. Böhlau Verlag, 2009, ISBN 978-3-205-77757-1 , pp. 121-125.
- ↑ Florian S. Küblbeck: Anatomy of the jacket: The front. On: stilmagazin.de, July 7, 2010
- ↑ Florian S. Küblbeck: Anatomy of the jacket: The shoulder. On: stilmagazin.de, July 28, 2010
- ↑ Men's Folio: 40 years of Giorgio Armani: A tribute to the “unconstructed” jacket , April 30, 2015
- ^ Eva Karcher: Giorgio Armani: Cosmos of clarity and harmony . In: Tagesspiegel, October 18, 2000.
- ↑ Max Walbersdorf: The quality of the suit - you have to pay attention to that . On: GQ - Gentlemen's Quarterly , February 2018
- ↑ a b c d e f g h Ruth Sprenger: The high art of the men's dressmaker - tradition and self-image of a master craft. Böhlau Verlag, 2009, ISBN 978-3-205-77757-1 , pp. 30-40.
- ↑ Ruth Sprenger: The high art of men's clothing makers - tradition and self-image of a master craft. Böhlau Verlag, 2009, ISBN 978-3-205-77757-1 , p. 47