Styrian suit
The Steireranzug is a gray costume suit with green trim, flap pockets and lampasses . It developed in Styria from the middle of the 19th century and is now widespread throughout Austria.
history
The Steireranzug originated from the costume of the hunters in the Salzkammergut , in the Eisenwurzen and in the Mürzer Oberland , but also took on various elements of military uniforms . It was popularized by Archduke Johann ; the Archduke particularly appreciated the simplicity and practicality of this costume, as can be seen from his letters to Anna Plochl :
“When I introduced the gray skirt in Steyermark, it was done in order to give an example of simplicity in custom, like my gray skirt, that's how my household became, like my talking and doing. The example worked, the gray skirt, misunderstood by some, recognized by the better, became an honor skirt and I never take it off, nor do I deviate from my simplicity, I'd rather give my life. "
In the imperial capital and residence of Vienna , Johann has been viewed with suspicion since the Alpine Confederation affair . Wearing the Styrian suit was soon seen as an indication of a rebellious disposition and, in 1823, on the instructions of the court chancellery, it was forbidden to all state officials on punishment. A few decades later, however, even Emperor Franz Joseph I wore such a suit when he was hunting in Mürzsteg .
The Styrian suit quickly spread as casual clothing for the aristocracy and, as a result, also for the upper class. After the First World War , the enthusiasm for costume at that time led to its rapid spread throughout Austria. The founding of the Styrian Heimatwerk by Viktor von Geramb in 1934 gave further new impulses to the maintenance and research of traditional costumes. In the corporate state worn as clothing typical of regime abiding citizens who Steireranzug was approved by the National Socialist further promoted cultural policy in Styria and remained after the Second World War and now a popular piece of clothing especially in conservative circles. It is the dominant men's clothing at most traditional costume events, such as the Jägerball in the Viennese ball season or the Aufsteirern folk culture festival in Graz.
The Styrian suit is widely regarded as a symbol of Styrian identity and was further popularized by personalities such as Josef Krainer and Hanns Koren .
Viktor v. Geramb and his students laid the foundation for the maintenance, scientific research and contemporary further development of the national costume, which is therefore still much more worn and valued in Styria than in other parts of Austria. The folklorist Günther Jontes from the Historical Commission describes Styria as the “main country of Austrian costumes”.
Appearance
There are regionally different forms of Styrian suits. In particular, two species have been worn throughout Styria: The Altsteirer Detective Suit (as Salon Styrian known) with green lapels and epaulettes concludes with four buttons; the Leobner (or Jägerrock ) has a stand-up collar and is closed with five buttons. Depending on the design, wide or narrow lampasses and cuffs are used. For both types described above, a green cloth vest with silver buttons is usually worn. Styrian suits are usually made of loden or worsted yarn ; the buttons for real Styrian costumes are made from stag horn .
In general, the use of metal buttons, synthetic fiber or cord fabrics as well as red, blue and black textiles is not considered to be "traditional costume"; suits made from them are fashionable new creations .
In addition to the gray-green suit, which was originally only worn in the Upper Styrian mountain region, there are also Styrian suits with the basic color (olive) green and with dark green trimmings for the east and south Styrian valleys and the hill country in the southeast of the country. In some market towns and cities in Styria, brown, Biedermeier traditional costumes are traditionally handed down.
Following the example of the Styrian suit, other national costumes were created in Austria (e.g. Carinthian suit , Salzburg suit, Tyrolean suit, Lower Austrian suit). These suits were only introduced in the 20th century and in most cases are largely identical to the Styrian suit, apart from the different basic colors (e.g. brown, dark blue); however, their distribution remained limited. Colloquially, many of these other costume suits are often referred to as "Styrian suits".
Steirerhut
The Styrian hat is made of gray-green fur felt and has a dark green hat band. The hat that is pressed in at the top can be adorned with a chamois beard or wood grouse feathers. The simple hat without jewelry is also used regardless of the suit z. B. worn by farmers at work.
Artistic reception
The Styrian suit as the local clothing of the farmers and hunters of the "Waldheimat" is often mentioned and described in the works of Peter Rosegger - himself a former sturgeon cutter . In Reinhard P. Gruber's novel From the Life Hödlmosers there is a comprehensive treatise on the Steireranzug in which the author comes to the ironic conclusion:
“[...] that it is a pure one-sidedness to call only the gray loden with green lapels and deer buttons, with or without lampas, but with a Styrian hat and Gamsbart as a“ Styrian suit ”. Response: What is more correct is that everything a Styrian wears is a Styrian suit. "
In Helmut Qualtinger's monologue Der Herr im Salonsteirer , on the other hand, the suit stands as a symbol of alleged self-righteousness and narrow-mindedness of middle-class conservative circles.
Individual evidence
- ↑ Othmar Pickl (ed.): Archduke Johann of Austria. His work in his time. Festschrift for the 200th anniversary of his birthday (= research on the historical regional studies of Styria 33), Graz 1982, p. 245
- ↑ Die Heimatliebe im Steirergwand ( page no longer available , search in web archives ) Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Kleine Zeitung , September 11, 2011
- ↑ Regional Association of Home and Trachtenvereine Styria (ed.): Traditional and renewed costumes from Styria . Kapfenberg, 2008, p. 13f.
- ↑ Holaubek-Lawatsch (1993), p. 125
literature
- Viktor von Geramb / Konrad Mautner : Styrian costume book . Verlag Leuschner & Lubensky, Graz 1988. ISBN 3-900918007
- Reinhard P. Gruber: From the life of Hödlmoser. A Styrian novel directed . Deutscher Taschenbuch Verlag, Munich 2006. ISBN 978-3-423-13467-5
- Gundl Holaubek-Lawatsch: Old folk art: Styrian costumes . Leopold Stocker Verlag, Graz-Stuttgart 1993. ISBN 3-7020-0465-3
- Franz C. Lipp et al. (Ed.): Traditional costume in Austria. Past and present . Christian Brandstätter Verlag, Vienna 1984. ISBN 3-85447-028-2
- Wilhelm Neumann: The forbidden Styrian suit . In: Gerhard Pferschy (ed.): Settlement, power and economy. (= Publications of the Steiermärkisches Landesarchiv , vol. 12), Graz 1981.
- Volkskultur Steiermark (Ed.): Lampas, Gams und Schneiderfliege. The Styrian men's costumes. Graz 2015 ISBN 978-3-9503747-2-8
Web links
- Entry on Steireranzug in the Austria Forum (in the AEIOU Austria Lexicon )
- Description of the Styrian suit on the Styrian Heimatwerk website