Gletscherhorn (Lauterbrunnen)

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Glacier Horn
Kranzberg (the flat back on the left), Gletscherhorn (a little to the left of the center of the picture), Louwihorn, Rottalhorn (top right)

Kranzberg (the flat back on the left), Gletscherhorn (a little to the left of the center of the picture), Louwihorn, Rottalhorn (top right)

height 3982  m above sea level M.
location Canton border Bern / Wallis , Switzerland
Mountains Bernese Alps
Dominance 2.47 km →  Jungfrau
Notch height 346 m ↓  southwest. Louwitor
Coordinates 640600  /  151409 coordinates: 46 ° 30 '46 "  N , 7 ° 58' 4"  O ; CH1903:  640600  /  151409
Gletscherhorn (Lauterbrunnen) (Canton of Bern)
Gletscherhorn (Lauterbrunnen)
First ascent August 15, 1867 by James John Hornby with Christian Lauener over the west ridge
Normal way West ridge or southeast ridge (depending on the difficult alpine tour )

The Gletscherhorn is 3982  m above sea level. M. the tenth highest mountain in the Bernese Alps . The border between the Swiss cantons of Bern and Valais runs over its summit .

location

The Gletscherhorn is located south of the much better known Jungfrau , to the southwest it is connected to the Äbeni Flue via the Gletscherjoch . To the north it falls with a mighty combined 1200 meter high wall, later over steep flanks around 2800 meters into the Lauterbrunnen valley .

The actual summit structure consists of rock. In the southern flank are the Gletscherhornfirn and Kranzbergfirn , which are separated from each other by the rocky southeast ridge. The glaciers unite below the southeast ridge and flow together into the Great Aletschfirn . Further south, the Aletschhorn towers over the Great Aletschfirn with its mighty north face.

Routes

The Gletscherhorn is rarely climbed. On the one hand, it is surrounded by numerous well-known peaks, some over the magical limit of 4000 meters, on the other hand, all the summit ascents are quite demanding tours.

The south-east ridge and the west ridge are considered normal routes. Both routes are about the same length and offer the same difficulties, difficult according to the SAC mountain and high tour scale . Possible bases are the Lötschenhütte Hollandia at 3240  m above sea level. M. or the Konkordia hut at 2850  m above sea level. M.

The north face of the Gletscherhorn is an extremely demanding combined tour.

Individual evidence

  1. Ueli Mosimann: Alpine tours in the Bernese Alps - From the Sanetsch Pass to the Grimsel. SAC-Verlag, 1999, p. 292.