Hullen-Hube
The hood of the “Bremen rural women's costume ” is called the Hullen-Hube and consists of two parts: the Hulle and the Hube.
The hat is a heavily starched chamber cloth, finely crinkled with hot knitting needles, in the shape of a wide hood, which, when put on, protrudes a hand's breadth in front of the wearer's face. It is set at the front with a 6 to 8 cm wide bobbin lace , which varies the theme of the Pöttjeskante in infinite variations. H. has flower pots or vases in the main pattern, between which small flowers are distributed. The real home of the Pöttjeskante is Antwerp, and it may be that the easy connection between Antwerp and Bremen favored the introduction of this graceful type of lace. The most expensive type of Pöttjeskante is called the Fedderspitze, probably the tip in which the flowers run into fern-like or feather-like leaves.
A white thread is sewn along the outermost edge of the tip , which ends in a knot and hangs down from the bonnet to the left. The hood can be tied tighter by tightening the thread .
The cover sits over the bonnet on the back of the head. It has an almost hemispherical shape, a diameter of 9 to 10 cm and is made of silk in different colors. At the bottom of the cover is a silk ribbon with a kind of bow, the ends of which fall long on the wearer's back.
On special, festive occasions, such as weddings , christenings , harvest festivals , the Lord's Supper or even when it went to the market in Bremen, the women wore the golden or silver Hullen hat, the ribbons of which had narrow, shiny vertical stripes showed equal distances. It is said that the price of the envelopes depends on their width, i.e. H. calculated according to the number of longitudinal stripes; each longitudinal strip cost a thaler . There should have been such hats with 16 stripes. And this was then a sign of prosperity and wealth .
Before putting on the Hullen hat, the hair is simply brushed back away from the face, braided and tied in a tight knot at the back of the head. Then on top of the head comes the "Flopken", a black piece of cloth, on top of it the white, large hat and finally the cover on the topknot at the back of the head.
Picture gallery
Reconstructed Hullen-Hube from the old parish of Blumenthal in the Bremen countryside, first half of the 19th century
Rear view of the Bremen rural women's costume
Green silk cover from the Bremen countryside (Mittelbüren), 1st half of the 19th century
Detail of a green silk cover from the Bremen countryside (Mittelbüren), 1st half of the 19th century
Golden cover from the Bremen countryside (Mittelbüren), 1st half of the 19th century
Motif of a Pöttjeskante or feather tip
Motif of a Pöttjeskante or feather tip
Description of a green silk cover
Dimensions: height about 11.5 cm / width about 9 cm / length (the central seam) about 17 cm / circumference (from / to loop) about 31 cm (see also images in the gallery)
Brief description: Small, almost round (hemispherical) case stiffened with cardboard , covered with green silk . The silk is woven jacquard and has flowers and foliage as well as pink to salmon-colored flowers in the pattern . The cover is bordered by silk ribbon and optically ends with "a" bow and two long ribbons under the cover. These ribbons fall long on the wearer's back. The inside of the cover is lined with a blue-beige striped and patterned fabric ( cotton ). In the “lower” part of the cover, three folds each (about 0.5 cm double) are sewn on the right and left, visible from the outside and inside, which bring the cover into shape. The height of these folds is about 5 cm.
Length of the tape: From the beginning (bottom) 115 cm to the loop, then loop 19 cm double (= 38 cm), then 2 times 30 cm (double = 60 cm) surrounding the cover, then again loop 19 cm double (= 38 cm) and again 115 cm towards the end. The silk ribbon is 8 cm wide and has not been hemmed at the ends; the pattern of 'falling' ribbons is emerging, i.e. H. one of the tapes has been processed overturned and is not upside down.
The ribbon is a straight, long piece, which after 115 cm is sewn twice and slightly pleated as the left loop, then continues in an approximately 30 cm double long piece for the border of the cover and then again to the right loop double and lightly is pleated and ends straight after 115 cm.
At the level of the loop, a hook and an eye are concealed (not necessarily visible) on the ribbon, which hold the ribbon together at this point and possibly serve to fasten the hair knot of the wearer. (When the hook and eye were closed, tension was created, which held the cover on the knot.)
Description of a golden shell
Dimensions: height about 11.5 cm / width about 9 cm / length (the central seam) about 17 cm / circumference (from / to loop) about 31 cm (see also images in the gallery)
Brief description: Small, almost round (hemispherical) case stiffened with cardboard, covered with brocade . The cover is bordered by brocade ribbon and ends optically with "a" bow and two long ribbons under the cover. These ribbons fall long on the wearer's back. The central seam of this cover is not visible from the outside, as the brocade fabric covers this area of the cover.
The inside of the case is lined with a colorful checkered fabric (cotton). In the “lower” part of the cover, three folds each (about 0.5 cm double) are sewn on the right and left, visible from the outside and inside, which bring the cover into shape. The height of these folds is about 5 cm.
Length of the ribbon: From the beginning (bottom) 90 cm to the loop, then loop 25 cm double (= 50 cm), then 32 cm surrounding the cover, then again loop 25 cm double (= 50 cm) and towards the end again 90 cm. The brocade ribbon is 3.5 cm wide, consists of 10 longitudinal strips and has been hemmed very narrowly at the ends.
The ribbon is a straight, long piece, which after 90 cm is sewn twice as the left loop and not pleated, then continues in an approx. 32 cm long piece for the border of the cover and then again to the right loop double and not pleated is sewn and ends straight again after 90 cm.
At the height of the loop, two hooks and two eyelets are concealed (not necessarily visible) next to each other at a distance of 2 cm, which hold the tape together at this point and were possibly used to fasten the wearer's hair knot. (When the hook and eye were closed, a tension was created which held the cover on the knot.) The brocade ribbon is not firmly connected to the cover at all points. After opening the hooks / eyes, the fastening begins approximately in the middle half of the case.
literature
- Johann Focke : The "Hullen-Huben" and the Bremen rural costume . In: Lower Saxony - magazine for people and homeland security in word and image, Bremen 1919/1920.
- Heinrich Hoops : History of the communities Grambke and Büren in the Bremen area . Commission publisher J. Morgenbesser, Bremen 1905.