epilation
Under epilation is the process for the removal of body hairs , wherein the hair together with the hair root is removed. In contrast to depilation , not only the visible part of the hair is removed. Epilation is divided into permanent (permanent) processes, in which the hair root is destroyed, and non-permanent processes, in which the hair is only torn out without destroying the hair root, and after some time - but only after a longer period of time than with depilation - grows back again. Depending on the cultural environment, epilation of certain parts or areas of the body is considered part of normal personal hygiene . In addition, permanent hair removal from the whole body is an increasingly widespread ideal of beauty .
Temporary epilation
With these epilation methods, the hair is pulled out. With all methods of epilation, hair growth slows down. Therefore, the skin remains smooth longer than with depilation ( e.g. shaving ) and the application intervals can be increased. Furthermore, the hair that grows back is thinner, less noticeable and softer. As a result, the hair can be removed more easily, which makes subsequent applications less painful.
There are epilation processes with wax ( warm wax or cold wax strips ), halawa (sticky sugar paste ) or thread epilation . In addition, there are corresponding electric epilators from various razor manufacturers that pull out the hair and its roots with rotating rollers or springs. With so-called Brazilian waxing , either the sugaring ( Halawa ) or the hot wax method is used. When used on the face, wax-based epilation processes have the problem that the top layer of skin may also be detached, as the facial skin is much thinner than other areas of the body.
Removing the body hair and especially the unwanted facial hair of women and men with a thread is a technique that is widely used in oriental countries. This technique is also spreading more and more in western countries and is mainly offered in brow bars . Thread epilation is said to be less painful than epilation with wax. The threads that are used for this are twisted so quickly with both hands between the fingers and guided over the body that when twisting the hairs get caught between them and are removed almost painlessly. This method is mainly used for unwanted facial hair or to model eyebrows. For larger areas of skin such as the leg, this method is very time-consuming and is therefore used less often.
Individual hairs and small areas, for example the eyebrows, can also be plucked with tweezers . However, tweezers cannot be used to remove large areas of hair (for example, a woman's beard or vellus hair ).
Permanent epilation
However, if you want to do without certain body hair permanently, you should consider permanent early hair removal, because - regardless of costs - the daily shave and the associated irritation of the skin can be permanently avoided. All permanent epilation processes have in common that they are only successful with hair that is in the growth phase. However, since there are a total of three phases of hair development, it is necessary to use this procedure several times to achieve a complete result.
Laser and light treatment systems
The hair is exposed to laser pulses or flashes of light over a large area . The light is absorbed by the melanin and converted into heat. This local heat development leads to a desolation of the hair roots. However, this method is only effective for dark hair or hair with dark roots, since white hair lacks the pigment melanin, which absorbs the laser radiation . In these cases, other epilation methods can be used. The laser works with exactly one wavelength and is therefore very selective with regard to the target structure.
Depilation laser
There are currently numerous laser and light treatment systems on the market that are suitable for slowing down hair growth ( long-term epilation) through to permanent hair removal. In particular, these are longer pulsed (up to 50 ms ) solid-state ( alexandrite , Nd: YAG , ruby ) or diode lasers . The difference to the IPL treatment with the laser is that the laser pulse always works at a constant wavelength and can therefore penetrate deep into the hair roots. For many laser systems, an effect that slows down hair growth has now been established.
IPL technology
IPL stands for Intense Pulsed Light and is another method for permanent hair removal or reduction. With the IPL technique, a comparatively large area can be treated quickly with a single pulse. In addition, in contrast to laser technology , which works with a single, fixed wavelength (e.g. 810 nm for the diode laser), the IPL technology uses the complete spectrum of a xenon light source, which through the use of filters on the necessary and for the Treatment effective wavelength range between 380 and 1400 nm is restricted. The irradiation is 5 to 30 joules / cm 2 during the flash time of 20 to 100 milliseconds. There are now also IPL devices for private use, which are subject to particularly strict security requirements.
The epilation results depend on the skin pigmentation and the pigment intensity of the hair. For a complete result, depending on the body region and the individual, six to 30 treatments should be expected. Since the basic principle of this treatment corresponds to that of laser epilation, this procedure only works with darker hair (hair with enough melanin). White hair and vellus hair (fuzz) cannot be permanently removed with this because they lack the pigment melanin , which could absorb the light radiation . Only electro-epilation can permanently remove hair without melanin.
The danger of using IPL and pulsed lasers in epilation does not only come from “burning” the highly absorbent skin areas and skin appendages, but also from unintentional damage to the retina when the eye is exposed to radiation. In response to the law on protection against non-ionizing radiation when used on humans ( NiSG ), the device manufacturers and importers of IPL devices have formed a device working group within the ICADA e. V. merged. German industry has imposed a self-restraint in order to meet the minimum standards of the NiSG until a regulation comes into force.
IPL is also used beyond the application in epilation, whereby the thermal effects (brief heating of the microcapillaries to 60-70 ° C), but also direct influences on the calcium concentration via the high-intensity radiation in the 500-900 nm wavelength range, contribute to changes lead to the expression of different proteins.
SHR technology
SHR stands for Super Hair Removal . A laser is used in place of flash lamps. This method can also remove light hair.
Electroepilation
Electro-epilation (also known as needle epilation) was first used in the USA as early as 1875 and has been technically developed and refined over the years. It is independent of hair color, hair thickness and skin color. During electroepilation, a very fine probe (made of the thinnest surgical steel), which is tailored to the hair thickness and follicle depth, is inserted into each hair follicle . Electrical energy is now fed into the follicle via this probe. This causes permanent damage to the hair growth cells. The hair can no longer grow back, so the hairlessness is permanent. Therefore, if you are under 18, you should have the consent of your legal guardian.
Electroepilation is practiced using three methods, thermolysis , electrolysis and the blend method. The selected method and its application depends on the individual hair condition, the skin reaction and the patient's different pain perception .
Thermolysis or high frequency electrocoagulation
High-frequency alternating current generates heat in the vicinity of the probe tip, which leads to coagulation of the tissue and growth cells in the follicle.
electrolysis
During the electrolysis treatment, a direct current is exclusively used in the hair follicle to produce a sodium hydroxide solution which chemically destroys the germinative cells.
Blend method
In the blend method, both types of current, i.e. high-frequency alternating current ( thermolysis ) and direct current ( electrolysis ), are combined with one another, and the caustic soda is heated up more quickly.
Comparison of the procedures
In the USA, treatment devices are tested and categorized by the American FDA (Food and Drug Administration). While in German usage "permanent hair removal" or "permanent hair reduction" are used for such different procedures with just as different results as photoepilation and electro-epilation, the FDA differentiates between two categories: The category "Permanent Hair Removal" (" Permanent hair removal ”) is assigned to procedures that enable lifelong hair removal, while the“ Permanent Hair Reduction ”category applies to procedures that can demonstrate a permanently visible reduction in the number of hairs. In Germany, the OLG Celle ruled in August 2011 that 'permanent hair removal' does not mean 'forever'. Since a large number of inactive hair cells are embedded in the skin, new hair growth can occur if these cells are activated, for example, by hormonal changes (puberty, pregnancy, menopause etc.).
- The category "Permanent Hair Removal" has so far only been applied to electroepilation procedures as the only proven successful method with which the definitive removal of unwanted hair can be achieved for all hair, regardless of its thickness and color and without side effects or long-term effects .
- Most of the laser and light treatment systems on the market are classified in the “Permanent Hair Reduction” category. The laser and light processes that work with optical means are distinguished, in relation to the other processes mentioned here, by their lower painfulness and their ability to be carried out quickly. However, the method has one major limitation: it only works with hair that still contains dye (melanin). White, gray or extremely blonde hair is therefore ruled out for this method. Even very dark-skinned people cannot be treated. The success and duration of the treatment depend largely on the energy in the system. In the meantime, these techniques are established on the market and - if used correctly - are usually very successful.
Because of the different results of these procedures, it is inappropriate to compare costs.
safety
When using IPL devices, the safety regulations and the necessary protective measures must be observed in particular. Due to the high optical intensity (a few J / cm²) of many devices, the exposure limit values (Directive 2006/25 / EC or values according to BG information 5006) are clearly exceeded for the eyes at typical distances of 0.5 to 1 m. The glare can extend many meters (up to approx. 14 meters).
See also
Individual evidence
- ↑ dtv-Lexikon Volume 5, page 131: Quotation: Depilation ... as epilation including the hair roots ... Depilation, only of the hair above the surface of the skin ...
- ↑ German Dermatological Laser Society
- Jump up ↑ Michael H. Gold, Julie A. Biron, Brynne Thompson: Clinical Evaluation of a Novel Intense Pulsed Light Source for Facial Skin Hair Removal for Home Use . In: J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. . 8, No. 7, July 2015, pp. 30–35. PMC 4509583 (free full text). (English, PMC 4509583 (free full text) 302 kB) (Title in German: Clinical evaluation of a novel Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) source for hair removal from facial skin for home use. )
- ↑ NiSG (PDF; 42 kB)
- ↑ Self-restraint of ICADA eV ( Memento from December 13, 2013 in the Internet Archive )
- ↑ Steven J Dell: Intense pulsed light for evaporative dry eye disease . In: Clinical Ophthalmology (Auckland, NZ) . tape 11 , June 20, 2017, ISSN 1177-5467 , p. 1167–1173 , doi : 10.2147 / OPTH.S139894 , PMID 28790801 , PMC 5488788 (free full text) - (PMC = 5488788 [accessed October 27, 2019]).
- ↑ The SHR method ( Memento of the original dated November 6, 2018 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
- ↑ US FDA: Radiation-Emitting Products - Laser Facts
- ↑ Pulsed intensive light sources (not laser sources) IPL
