Johannes Zumtaugwald
Johannes Zumtaugwald (born January 4, 1826 in Zermatt ; † 1900 ) was a mountain guide from the early days of Zermatt alpinism .
Life
Johannes Zumtaugwald, son of Johann Joseph and Maria Katharina Zumtaugwald, was a Zermatt mountain guide who made several first ascents of prominent Swiss four-thousand-meter peaks , including the highest mountain completely in Switzerland, the Dom (4545 m), and the highest Swiss mountain ever, the Dufourspitze (4634 m). He was the younger brother of Matthäus Zumtaugwald and the older brother of Stefan Zumtaugwald, who achieved similarly spectacular first ascents; sometimes they went together in rope teams. The ventures were financed by English guests such as Leslie Stephen , who later co-founded the London Alpine Club , or the two clergymen Charles Hudson (first to climb the Matterhorn in 1865) and John Llewelyn Davies.
Thanks to the American alpinist Henry Fairbanks Montagnier (1877–1933), the guide books of the three Zumtaugwald brothers have been preserved and provide extensive information about the tours of the early days of alpinism. For example, an attempt by Johann Zumtaugwald to climb the Matterhorn is documented for 1862 , but he did not reach the summit.
The name Zumtaugwald, which can be traced back to the late Middle Ages, comes from the family's ancestral home in the Taugwald, which is near Zermatt. The long-established family produced several Meier of the Zermatt free court as well as some priests.
First ascents
- 1855 Monte-Rosa-Dufourspitze over west ridge, 4634 m
- 1858 Cathedral over Festigrat, 4545 m
- 1859 Rimpfischhorn , 4199 m
- 1862 Täschhorn over Kinflanke, 4491 m
Web links
- Gerd Schauer: Zumtaugwald Johannes. Biography. In: AlpinWiki. Klaus Oberhuber, accessed on December 10, 2018
- Zumtaugwald, Johann. Zumtaugwald, Matthäus. Zumtaugwald, Stefan. In: Historical Alpine Archives of the Alpine Clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol. January 3, 1985. Retrieved December 10, 2018
Individual evidence
- ↑ John Percy Farrar: The Führer Books of the Brothers Zumtaugwald. In: Alpine Journal. Alpine Club London, 1918, accessed December 10, 2018 .
- ^ Bernard Truffer: Taugwalder [Zumtaugwald]. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland .
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Zumtaugwald, Johannes |
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES | Zumtaugwald, Johann |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Swiss mountain guide |
| DATE OF BIRTH | January 4, 1826 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Zermatt |
| DATE OF DEATH | 1900 |