K12 (mountain)

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K12
height 7428  m
location Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ),
Ladakh ( India )
Mountains Saltoro Mountains ( Karakoram )
Dominance 19.42 km →  Saltoro Kangri
Notch height 1978 m ↓  ( 5450  m )
Coordinates 35 ° 17 '45 "  N , 77 ° 1' 19"  E Coordinates: 35 ° 17 '45 "  N , 77 ° 1' 19"  E
K12 (mountain) (Karakoram)
K12 (mountain)
First ascent August 30, 1974 by Shinichi Takagi and Tsutomu Ito
Normal way Snow / ice climbing route
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The K12 is the second highest point in the Saltoro Mountains , a part of the Karakorum Mountains in the Indian- controlled area.

location

It is located in the disputed border region between the Pakistani territory of Gilgit-Baltistan (the former northern areas ) and the Indian Kashmir region in the southwest of the Siachen Glacier . The course of the border is not precisely defined there, it probably runs over the main ridge of the Saltoro Mountains and thus over the summit of the K12. Its name comes from its designation during the original survey of the Karakoram.

The K12 is located in the southwest of the Siachen Glacier ; the K12 glacier flows on its northeastern slopes and feeds the Siachen. The western slopes of the K12 flow to the Bilafond glacier system , from there to the Dansam River and finally into the Indus .

Ascent history

The K12 experienced little climbing activity, partly due to the unstable political situation and the ongoing military presence in the area. A first attempt at ascent was made in 1960, after a reconnaissance visit in 1957, by the famous explorer Eric Shipton .

After another failed attempt by a Japanese rope team in 1971, another Japanese expedition managed to bring the two climbers Shinichi Takagi and Tsutomu Ito to the summit in 1974. They fell and died on the descent. Their bodies could no longer be found.

Another Japanese expedition returned in 1975 and made the second ascent.

In 1984 the Indian Army seized the summit as part of their plan to block all claims to the Siachen Glacier on the undemarked part of the Line of Control from Pakistan. There are no later ascents or attempts to ascend in the Himalayan Index.

literature

  • Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram , Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1990.
  • Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 meter peaks , The Mountaineers, 1989.

Web links

  • K12 on Peakbagger.com (English)

Individual evidence

  1. India de facto controls this region of Kashmir . The Indian claim is contested by Pakistan . See e.g. B. The Future of Kashmir on the BBC website .
  2. a b Goro Iwatsubo: Asia, Pakistan, K 12 . American Alpine Journal, 1975, vol. 19th
  3. ^ Ichiro Yoshizawa: Asia, Pakistan, K12 . American Alpine Journal, 1976, vol. 20th
  4. Himalaya Index (English)