Lieselotte Friedlaender

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Lieselotte Friedlaender (* 4. May 1898 in Hamburg , † 18th December 1973 in Berlin ) was a German press illustrator , fashion illustrator , commercial artist and painter . She is considered to be one of the most famous fashion illustrators of the Weimar period .

Life

Lieselotte Friedlaender's father Konrad was a corvette captain , her grandfather was the philologist and antiquarian Ludwig Friedländer , and Georg Dehio was her uncle by marriage. Her parents moved to Berlin in 1909, where she received her first artistic training from Hermann Sandkuhl . From 1913 she learned in the drawing class Georg Tappert at the private Wilmersdorfer Kunstschule, from 1916 to 1918 she was at the Kunstgewerbeschule Kassel and then again in Berlin at the Kunstgewerbeschule Charlottenburg with Edmund Schaefer . From 1921 she assisted in the studio of the commercial artist Lucian Zabel (1893–1936). As a fashion illustrator, she had her first order for a pattern booklet at Ullstein-Verlag , as a draftsman she was printed in the magazines Funny Blätter , Uhu , Elegante Welt and Styl . From 1922 she then worked regularly for the "Moden-Spiegel", a supplement to the Berliner Tageblatt in the Mosse publishing house . She shaped its aesthetic appearance with her cover illustrations and as a member of the editorial team alongside Ola Alsen and Ruth Götz . Thanks to the high number of subscribers to the daily newspaper, their illustrations achieved a very high level of awareness and shaped the media reception of the new, self-confident and sporty type of woman of the 1920s. In this main phase of her work, the twenties , Friedlaender not only drew for the press, but also had orders as a book illustrator and commercial artist for IG Farben , Tretorn shoes and “Etam stockings”. She also portrayed some film stars of the 1920s with Rosa Valetti , Asta Nielsen , Conrad Veidt and Lilly Flohr . Their activities were shaken by the global economic crisis . The breakthrough in press photography in the mid-1920s changed the status of press drawings and ultimately the politically enforced image of women under National Socialism drove women out of their professions.

Friedlaender was dismissed from the Mosse publishing house in 1933 because of her Jewish ancestors and was banned from working because she was only accepted into the Reichskunstkammer after an intercession in 1938 . In 1934 she was briefly in protective custody . She tried to keep herself afloat with odd jobs as a costume and set designer, now under her mother's maiden name as Lilo Madrian and other pseudonyms. Since the German warfare led to the bombing of Hamburg and Berlin, she had to move to Kirchdorf in the province of Hanover in 1943 , where she lived until 1949. Inevitably, she had not only changed her name but also her recognizable painting style to a traditional direction with no creative inspiration, and her subjects became landscapes, still lifes of flowers and portraits of the villagers. Her partner in the 1930s, the draftsman Gunter Katzke, died in the war. Back in West Berlin in the 1950s, she only had sporadic commissions as a commercial artist, for example for a Berlin clothing store and for Lux cigarettes ; she could no longer build on her successes before the Nazi era , but lacked the strength and the will fled and killed colleagues.

The Berlin actress Ciliane Dahlen-Friedländer was her adopted daughter.

literature

  • Burcu Dogramaci : Friedlaender, Lieselotte . In: General Artist Lexicon . The visual artists of all times and peoples (AKL). Volume 45, Saur, Munich a. a. 2005, ISBN 3-598-22785-X , p. 114 f.
  • Burcu Dogramaci: Lieselotte Friedlaender (1898–1973): an artist of the Weimar Republic. A contribution to press graphics of the twenties, with a list of the works from 1920 to 1933 . Tübingen: Wasmuth, 2001. ISBN 3-8030-3098-6 . (Zugl .: Hamburg, Univ., Diss., 2000)
  • W. Michael Blumenthal (Ed.): Lieselotte Friedlaender: 1898–1973; Fate of a Berlin fashion graphic artist. Exhibition by the Jewish Museum Berlin and the fashion department of the Stadtmuseum Berlin, November 13, 1998 to January 10, 1999, Ephraim-Palais

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Burcu Dogramaci: "Women who earn their own money." Lieselotte Friedlaender, the "Fashion Mirror" and the image of the urban woman. In: Garçonnes à la Mode in Berlin and Paris in the 1920s , edited by Stephanie Bung; Margarete Zimmermann, Wallstein, 2006, pp. 47-67
  2. ↑ Burcu Dogramaci: Lieselotte Friedlaender (1898–1973) , p. 192
  3. ↑ Bernhard Gaber ( Bernhard Gaber at DNB) issued the rejection for the Reich Chamber of Culture . Burcu Dogramaci: Lieselotte Friedlaender (1898–1973) , p. 190
  4. ↑ Burcu Dogramaci: Lieselotte Friedlaender (1898–1973) , p. 161
  5. ↑ Gunter Katzke
  6. ↑ Burcu Dogramaci: Lieselotte Friedlaender (1898–1973) , pp. 167–169
  7. ↑ Ciliane Dahlen-Friedländer (* July 21, 1921; † October 14, 2006)
personal data
SURNAME Friedlaender, Lieselotte
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German press illustrator, fashion illustrator, commercial artist and painter
DATE OF BIRTH May 4, 1898
PLACE OF BIRTH Hamburg
DATE OF DEATH 18th December 1973
Place of death Berlin