Peter Kaufmann (mountain guide, 1858)
Peter Kaufmann (born January 17, 1858 in Grindelwald ; † October 14, 1924 there ) was a Swiss mountain guide during the Silver Era of Alpinism (1865–1882), which followed the Golden Age .
Life
Peter Kaufmann was born as the son of the mountain guide Peter ("Grabi Peter", 1832–1903) and Katherina born Jaggi im Graben in Grindelwald. He had twelve siblings; his half-brothers also became mountain guides.
From an early age Kaufmann looked after cows and goats on steep slopes. His father taught him to climb, to "read" the rock faces, the snow, the ice and the weather. At the age of 19, he acquired the carrier certificate. On mountain tours with experienced guides, including his father, he carried heavy loads such as provisions, ladders and photo equipment, but was also able to gain practical climbing experience.
To qualify as a licensed mountain guide, he had to pass rigorous training and an exam. The theoretical training covered the geography of mountains and the dangers of snow, ice, glaciers and rocks. A mountain guide had to know the mountains of the Bernese Alps in detail. Both the knowledge of how to avoid accidents and the behavior in such situations was assumed. The practical training covered first aid as well as the treatment and transport of an injured person. During the climbing test, he had to prove his knowledge of the routes, the ascent times, the location of peaks and passes, the use of the compass and maps as well as the handling of ropes and ice axes ( stepping on steps ). He had to show that he had what it takes to be a responsible supervisor for the climbers who entrusted himself to him and that he behaved in an exemplary manner in the mountain huts.
In March 1879, Kaufmann was approved by the Interlaken District Commission as a state-certified mountain guide. He received a mountain guide license and a leather-bound “guide book” in which his future customers could write their comments. After his 45-year career, his 224-page “guide book” contained a chronological listing of all his ascents and the testimonials of his customers that he had taken over glaciers, mountains and summits. The quality of the comments in the “Führerbuch” was checked annually by an official authority. The entries included details of each climb: the routes, the mountain names, the time of the climb, the weather, the qualities of the guide (knowledge of English, friendly host, good cook and friendly host in the mountain hut) and the memorable events.
In the early years, Peter accompanied his father as the second mountain guide; as an adult, he led mountaineers with his brothers, including his half-brothers, the twins Rudolf and Hans (1874–1930), and Christian Kaufmann (1872–1939). According to his "Guide Book" he mounted next to the Wetterhorn over a hundred times the Virgin , many times Schreckhorn , Finsteraarhorn and Eiger and peaks in the Canadian Rockies and the Selkirk Mountains . In 1907 and 1908 Kaufmann worked as a mountain guide for the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) and the Canadian Pacific Railways (CPR).
His clients at the beginning of the 20th century were amateurs, seasoned mountaineers and several celebrities. As a rule, they came from the upper middle class, from various professions and had different reasons for the ascent (adventure, demanding ascent, natural beauty, scientific or photographic interests).
On January 3, 1885, Peter Kaufmann married Maria Elise von Allmen from Stechelberg , with whom he had nine children. He also taught his sons Peter (1886–1971) and Fritz (1902–1978) to climb.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ State Archives Canton Bern: Grindelwald 17 Eherodel (1841-1867)
- ^ Smith, F. Ormiston. "The Groundmen of Europe. The Swiss Mountain Guide in the Making .." CB Fry's Magazine. London, vol. 3, no. 18 (September 1905), pp. 558-569.
- ↑ Le Blond, Aubrey. True Tales of Mountain Adventure for Young and Old . New York: EP Dutton, 1903.
- ↑ Guide book, according to the regulations for mountain guides and porters from May 1, 1874
- ↑ Swissinfo.ch July 5, 2013: Swiss help in opening up the Canadian Rockies
- ↑ Sarah Neuhaus: In the footsteps of the merchant. Jungfrauzeitung from January 28, 2018, accessed on July 16, 2020.
- ↑ Jungfrau Zeitung of February 3, 2010: History and Stories of Grindelwald from 1909
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Kaufmann, Peter |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Swiss mountain guide |
| DATE OF BIRTH | January 17, 1858 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Grindelwald |
| DATE OF DEATH | October 14, 1924 |
| Place of death | Grindelwald |