Schreckhorn
| Schreckhorn | ||
|---|---|---|
 Schreckhorn, Bernese Alps. View from the Faulhorn |
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| height | 4078 m above sea level M. | |
| location | Canton of Bern , Switzerland | |
| Mountains | Bernese Alps | |
| Dominance | 5.48 km → Finsteraarhorn | |
| Notch height | 794 m ↓ Finsteraarjoch | |
| Coordinates | 652 106 / 159 989 | |
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| First ascent | August 16, 1861 by Peter and Christian Michel, Leslie Stephen and Ulrich Kaufmann | |
| Normal way | Southwest Ridge ( ZS + ) | |
The Schreckhorn is with a height of 4078 m above sea level. M. the northernmost four-thousand-meter peak in Europe. It is located in the Bernese Alps in the canton of Bern in Switzerland . Geologically, the Schreckhorn belongs to the Aar massif and consists of first field gneiss .
Ascent
First ascent
The Schreckhorn is the most challenging four-thousand-meter peak in the Bernese Alps. The first ascent took place on August 16, 1861 by Peter and Christian Michel, Leslie Stephen and Ulrich Kaufmann.
Routes
starting point
The starting point for all routes is the Schreckhornhütte ( 2529 m above sea level ), accessible from Grindelwald ( 1034 m above sea level ).
Southwest ridge (normal route)
Northwest Ridge (Anderson Ridge)
- Difficulty: S
- Time required: 6–8 hours
South pillar
Literary and artistic importance
Albrecht von Haller
The Schreckhorn is one of the few mountains that were already known across Europe, at least by name, before the classical age of alpinism, and also found their way into classical literature: It is probably the first mountain to be mentioned in Albrecht von Hallers , as the only Alpine summit Poem Die Alpen from 1729 (Chapter 1, sixth from last song).
Near Haller, the Schreckhorn is an idealized center of the Alps, from which the currents of Europe flow north and south into the seas. In reality it only separates the Aare from the Lütschine . The watershed to the Mediterranean is five kilometers to the southwest, and those to the Rhine and Inn are 40 and 120 kilometers to the east, respectively. Haller came from Bern and traveled the Alps in the year before the poem was written.
romance
The Schreckhorn appears in a letter from Heinrich von Kleist to his sister from Thun around 1803 .
In 1804 the Schreckhorn appears in Friedrich Schiller's Wilhelm Tell (verse 628), in addition to the names of Jungfrau , Glärnisch and Haggenspitz, a sub-peak of the Kleiner Mythen . However, Schiller was never in Switzerland, so it is questionable whether he knew more about the Schreckhorn than just its name. The name was of course well known to the European intellectuals of his time from Haller's poem Die Alpen .
Others
In 1755 it appears in the panorama of the snow mountains by Jacques-Barthélemy Micheli du Crest . Along with Pilatus and Wetterhorn, it is the only peak there that is properly labeled.
literature
- Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: Four-thousanders in the Alps. 12th, updated edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-7633-7427-2 .
Web links
- Schreckhorn at 4000m - the four-thousanders of the Alps