Rimo I
| Rimo I | ||
|---|---|---|
| height | 7385 m | |
| location | Ladakh ( India ) | |
| Mountains | Rimo Muztagh ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 30.39 km → Mamostong Kangri | |
| Notch height | 1438 m | |
| Coordinates | 35 ° 21 '18 " N , 77 ° 22' 8" E | |
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| First ascent | July 28, 1988 by Nima Dorje Sherpa, Tsewang Smanla (India); Yoshio Ogata, Hideki Yoshida (Japan) | |
| particularities | The first attempt by Japanese mountaineers was the external reason for the Siachen conflict . | |
The Rimo I , 7385 m above sea level, is the main peak of the Rimo massif in the northern part of the Rimo Muztagh in the Karakoram in India .
The mountain is about 20 km from the glacier mouth of the Siachen glacier . Rimo means "banded mountain". When the Pakistani authorities of a Japanese expedition approved the climb of Rimo I in 1984, this was the external reason for the Siachen conflict , in which the Indian army occupied the Siachen glacier at 6,400 m and the Pakistani army occupied the surrounding mountains.
The Rimo massif consists of four mountains that bear the name Rimo : Rimo I, Rimo II ( 7373 m ), which is a relatively insignificant peak in the north of Rimo I, Rimo III ( 7233 m ) and Rimo IV ( 7169 m ) are solitary peaks in the north of Rimo I. the solid is from the large centrally located on the north side Middle Rimogletscher and the Southern Rimogletscher covered on the east side, but also from the smaller Northern Teronggletscher on the west side.
Because of its remote location in the middle of the eastern Karakoram, the Rimo massif was little known and little visited until the 20th century. The explorer Filippo de Filippi and Philip and Jenny Visser did not come to this area until 1914 and 1929 respectively. The isolation and the political situation between India and Pakistan in this region, which is manifested in the occupation of the nearby Siachen Glacier, have led to the isolation of the massif contributed. India controls all access to this massif.
The first attempt at ascent of the Rimo massif was made by a Japanese expedition that was unsuccessful. In 1984 the Rimo IV was successfully climbed by an expedition of the Indian army and in 1985 by a well-organized Indo-British expedition led by the Himalayan expert Harish Kapadia . Dave Wilkinson and Jim Fotheringham of the latter expedition climbed Rimo III, but did not reach the summit of Rimo I.
The only successful ascent of Rimo I was achieved by an Indo-Japanese team in 1988, led by Hukam Singh and Yoshio Ogata. They started in the southwest of the mountain, climbed to the significant Ibex pass on the south side of the mountain and successfully completed the ascent with a technically difficult climb over 1,500 m to the summit.
literature
- Jerzy Wala: Karakoram. Orographical Sketch . Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich 1990 (1: 250,000; 1 map in 2 sheets; each 67 × 102 cm).
- Andy Fanshawe, Stephen Venables: Himalaya. Magic lines ("Himalaya Alpine Style"). Bergverlag Rother , Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7633-7042-0 .
Web links
- Rimo I on Peakbagger.com (English)
Individual evidence
- ↑ American Alpine Journal (AAJ) 1986, p. 266.