Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe

Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe (born December 4, 1927 in Malmö ; † July 3, 2004 in Copenhagen ) is considered the most important Scandinavian jewelry designer after the Second World War and the first woman to achieve world fame as a silversmith. Her most important works include the “Vivianna” wristwatch, the “Möbius” bracelet and the earrings and chokers ( Georg Jensen ) known as “Dew Drop” .

Life

Torun Bülow-Hübe was the youngest of four children of a family of artists and architects in Malmö and studied from 1945 to 1950 at Konstfack , the Swedish art college in Stockholm . In 1956 she went to Paris , where she designed jewelry for Brigitte Bardot , Ingrid Bergman and Billie Holiday, among others . She met Picasso , who invited her to hold her own exhibition in his museum in Antibes in 1958. She graced the title of Vogue and conquered Paris with her unusual, noble jewelry that caresses the female body in organic shapes. Her reinterpretation of jewelry design represented a radical break with previous conventions. On the beach in Antibes, she collected stones and combined them with silver, the classic Scandinavian jewelry material. Her works have been made by the Georg Jensen silversmiths in Copenhagen since 1967 . After Georg Jensen himself, Torun Bülow-Hübe is considered the most important Georg Jensen designer. Her jewelry can be found in the Museum of Modern Art in New York City , the Swedish National Museum in Stockholm, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Montréal, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs Le Louvre, Paris, in The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, London, and in the Pinakothek der Moderne , Munich. In 1966, Torun Bülow-Hübe turned to the Subud movement and adopted the middle name "Vivianna". With her two youngest children, Ira (* 1956) and Marcia (* 1963), she moved to Wolfsburg , Germany for a decade in 1968 , before moving to Jakarta , Indonesia in 1978 , where she was and continues to be involved in social projects for almost 25 years worked in his own workshop. After suffering from leukemia, she returned to Copenhagen in 2003, where she died on July 3, 2004.

Awards

• 1954 silver medal at the 10th Triennale di Milano
• 1960 gold medal at the 12th Triennale di Milano
• 1960 Lunning Prize
• 1965 Swedish State Scholarship
• 1992 Prince Eugene Medal, Sweden
• 1996 honorary citizenship of Biot, France
• 1998 Design Plus Award, Frankfurt

literature

• Ann Westin: Torun - Samtal med Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe , Carlssons, Stockholm 1999, ISBN 91-7203-835-7