Alfred von Pallavicini
Alfred Margrave von Pallavicini (born May 26, 1848 in Ödenburg ( Sopron ), † June 26, 1886 in the Glockner Group , Carinthia ) was an Austrian mountaineer and was considered the strongest man in Vienna at the time .
Life
Coming from an Italian-Austrian noble family, Pallavicini was until the end of the Austro-Prussian War in 1866, a lieutenant in the Austro-Hungarian Alpenjäger corps and later a reserve officer in the Tyrolean Kaiser Infantry Regiment .
In addition to numerous first ascents in the Dachstein Mountains , in the Dolomites and on the Suldengrat of the Königspitze , Pallavicini became famous for the first ascent of a 600 meter high and up to 55 degree steep ice channel on the Großglockner , which was later named after him. During this enterprise on August 18, 1876, he was accompanied by the three mountain guides Johann Kramser, Georg Bäuerle and Josef Tribusser. Since the use of ice hooks was only introduced by Willo Welzenbach in 1924 , the mountain guides had to hit 2,500 steps with an ice ax when climbing up the channel . The second ascent of the pallavicini channel took place only 23 years later.
Pallavicini was a founding member of the Austrian Alpine Club founded in 1878 . In the same year he was the first person to lift 100 kg to the high distance in weightlifting .
In the Glockner group, where Pallavicini had achieved his greatest success, he also died on June 26, 1886. While climbing the Glocknerwand , he and his three companions fell just below the summit after a broken cornice . Their graves are in the mountaineer cemetery in Heiligenblut am Großglockner .
literature
- R. Hösch: Pallavicini Alfred Margrave of. In: Austrian Biographical Lexicon 1815–1950 (ÖBL). Volume 7, Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften, Vienna 1978, ISBN 3-7001-0187-2 , p. 302 f. (Direct links on p. 302 , p. 303 ).
- Alfred von Pallavicini. Historical AlpenArchiv , accessed on November 23, 2010 .
Web links
- Personal folder on Alfred von Pallavicini (I) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
- Personal folder on Alfred von Pallavicini (II) (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Österreichische Alpenzeitung , No. 28 of January 23, 1880
- ^ Illustrated Österreichisches Sportblatt dated June 24, 1911 , accessed on January 3, 2011
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Pallavicini, Alfred von |
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES | Pallavicini, Alfred Margrave of (full name) |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Austrian officer and mountaineer |
| DATE OF BIRTH | May 26, 1848 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Sopron |
| DATE OF DEATH | June 26, 1886 |
| Place of death | Glockner Group , Carinthia |