Brassiere

Ancient forerunners ( strophium ) of the brassiere, which were worn for sport. Mosaics in the Villa Romana del Casale in Sicily

The brassiere (abbreviated and colloquially known as a bra ) is an item of underwear that is supposed to support and shape the female breast .

history

Strophium or fascia, a long strip of textile or leather with the end tucked in

The custom of covering and supporting the breasts goes back at least to ancient Greece. In 2500 BC BC Minoan women in Crete covered their breasts. In Greek city-states like Sparta , women are said to have tied their breasts when participating in sporting events in order to appear more masculine. In Roman antiquity , women covered and supported their breasts with the strophium (see also Fascia pectoralis ).

In 2008, during renovation work in the ceiling between the first and second floors of the East Tyrolean Lengberg Castle ( Austria ), over 2,700 textile fragments were discovered, including four brassieres with clearly recognizable cups, which, according to the results of their radiocarbon dating, date back to between 1440 and 1485 . Two of the finds looked like today's bras, the other two like sleeveless shirts with cups. A brassiere was made of fine linen with valuable needlepoint .

At the beginning of the 19th century, mostly simple camisoles were common. Since the nipples became apparent, padded "breast enhancers" were introduced that looked very similar to a bra and were later worn over the corset . Hugo Schindler from Mariaschein in Bohemia registered a brassiere with the "Federal Office for Intellectual Property" for a patent as early as 1893 . This had two caps attached to a belt, which were fastened with straps at the top. The first patent for a woman's bodice as a breast carrier was applied for by Christine Hardt from Dresden on September 5, 1899. It consisted of handkerchiefs and men's suspenders knotted together and was adjustable. The French Herminie Cadolle registered a patent for a brassiere in the same year. The Swabian corset maker Wilhelm Meyer-Ilschen from Cannstatt developed his “breast support without lower part” in 1904 (patented later). His father-in-law Sigmund Lindauer , also from Cannstatt, let the first brassiere go into series production in his company S. Lindauer & Co (brand Prima Donna); he had an imperial patent for the first bra without longitudinal and transverse supports made of whalebone and bone. Lindauer's “Hautana” made a career around the world. A large number of other patents followed worldwide.

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  Elastic short corset from 1803

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  Cup-shaped brassiere from 1864

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  This brassiere from 1873 already corresponds in principle to today's model

• 

  Bustier 1878 that the Pacific could be opened

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  Brassiere by Herminie Cadolle, 1899

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  "Rockträger" by Christine Hardt, 1899

At about the same time as Hugo Schindler, Mary Phelps Jacob invented a replacement for the bodice in the United States : she made an item of laundry out of two towels and a few ribbons to cover her breasts. She patented this invention in 1914 and then sold the patent to the Warner Brothers Corset Company for $ 1,500. She is officially considered the inventor of the bra, which is probably due to her good business acumen.

Brassiere as worn in the 1940s and 1950s. This model was often closed at the front. The cups are covered with pieces of fabric that could either be folded back or hooked together.

The brassiere replaced the corset at the end of the 19th century. The first models were made of linen . From the 1920s they were also made from silk , muslin or batiste . At the beginning of the 1930s, the standard sizes (A, B and C cups) that are still known today were introduced in the United States for the first time. It was not until 1947, with the so-called New Look , that the brassiere finally replaced the bodice. From then on, there were bras with reinforced cups (with whalebone , later metal brackets below the cups), padded and reinforced bras, push-ups, bras without clasps, clasps at the back or front.

Like other garments, the bra went through a variety of shapes and fashions: boyish in the 1920s, round in the 1930s, and pointed in the 1950s. From 1994, with the introduction of the “ Wonderbras ” and new materials, there was a new bra and lingerie boom. The most expensive bra ever produced is the Fantasy Bra from 2000, which was entered in the Guinness Book of Records for a purchase price of 15 million dollars .

construction

• Bra shapes
• 

  Full cup

• 

  Plunge

• 

  Bandeau

A brassiere consists of two shaped, interconnected cups to hold the breasts, two straps over both shoulders for vertical stabilization and a band that can be closed on the back or front for horizontal and actual stabilization. Commercially available bras usually have a rear closure (then often in the form of adhesive strips ), but it can also be located on the front between the cups ("French closure"). Combinations of the basic types as well as special shapes with zippers, buttons or side fasteners are also available.

Both the shoulder straps and the back can be adjusted for fine adjustments, e.g. B. the back fastener to adjust the width can usually be hooked into two or three differently distant eyelets . Neither the shoulder straps nor the back strap should cut into the skin when worn, there should still be space for two fingers under the back strap. If it does not sit horizontally but is shifted upwards, either a smaller underbust or a larger cup should be selected.

Underwire bra (75C) integrated into an evening body as visible outerwear

Bra shapes

General bra shapes:

• Fullcup: covering cups with a high bar
• Ball gown bra (strapless): without shoulder straps, with a particularly low back, for wearing under backless dresses or tops
• Bandeau bra: top in the form of a modified wide band, often strapless
• Underwire bra: the oldest form of brassiere, reinforced with wire or plastic, stabilizes the breast more, making it particularly suitable for larger cups
• Wireless bra: the more flexible structure makes it more comfortable to wear for some sizes
• Neck bra: without strap around the back, front closure
• Only-cup bra , until the advent of contact lenses as a prison shell called
• Stick-on bra: self-adhesive silicone cups or disposable cups that can be glued under the breasts to keep the back and décolleté free, can also be worn under a swimsuit
• Nursing bra: with the option of opening or folding the cup with one hand to enable breastfeeding . Often the straps are particularly wide and the cups are multilayered.

Modeling bra:

• Minimizer bra: to visually reduce larger breasts or to achieve a less feminine silhouette
• Push-up bra : for the optical enlargement of smaller breasts or for modeling the décolleté
• Balconette: straps that protrude very far, integrated brackets or half-shells to lift the breasts
• Relief bra: for large bust sizes, relieves the back, guaranteed by the special cut, mostly pre-shaped cups and hard-wearing materials

Sports bra:

• Sports bra: particularly supportive, often made of functional fibers, also with integrated heart rate measurement

Medical bra:

• Compression bra: after breast surgery to immobilize the breast and improve wound healing
• Epitheses -BH
• Arthritis bra: for restricted mobility, with an easy-to-open fastener between the cups

Material and care

Bras usually consist of a mix of several materials:

• Cotton or viscose
• Elastane for elasticity
• Polyamide for dimensional stability; alternatively also polyester or polyurethane
• Lace decorations

When washing machine wash, it is advisable to wash underwired bras in special laundry nets, as hangers that slip out can damage the washing drum. Bra with elaborate lace decorations or embroidery can be washed more gently in the wool program or by hand.

Bra sizes

The size of a bra is indicated in all countries by a combination of a number and a letter, for example 75B . The number indicates the underbust band size and tells which underbust band size the bra fits. The letter indicates the cup size and tells which breast size the bra fits. There are different size systems in different countries, some of which are laid down in official standards. Despite this standardization, bras often do not fit properly (see section Bra fitting ).

Body measurements

The bra sizes are based on two measurements in centimeters:

• Chest circumference is the maximum horizontal circumference measured with normal breathing and an upright posture. The measuring tape runs horizontally under the armpits and on the breast elevation. It is preferred to measure with moderate tension over a bra that does not unnaturally deform the breast and does not shift its volume (EN 13402).
• Underbust measurement is the horizontal measurement of the body just below the breasts.

However, the anatomy of the body can only be standardized to a limited extent, and measuring the chest and underbust circumference alone is often not enough to find the right bra size. Even the measurement is not standardized enough. When measuring the chest circumference, the recommendations range from measuring lying down, to measuring with sagging breasts, to measuring with raised breasts or measuring in a well-fitting bra. In addition to differently sized (asymmetrical) breasts, temporary fluctuations in breast size can make choosing the right bra size more difficult. It is usually not specified whether the measurement should be carried out with a loosely fitting or a taut tape measure. In addition, the state of breathing is not standardized. A significantly larger volume is measured after inhaling than after exhaling. Bra sizes, which are determined using different measurement methods and when the lungs are filled differently with air, vary up to several sizes of the underbust band and even more clearly in the cup size. Incidentally, the measurement of the chest circumference is also the starting point for calculating the size of the women's clothing.

Alternative body measurements

One method of determining cup size is to measure your half-bust size, thereby avoiding the difficulty of finding the difference between the two independent measurements of bust and underbust.

Since the usual measurement method is used to measure at two different heights of the trunk, but the circumference of the trunk normally increases towards the shoulders, a systematic error occurs. Athletic women with a pronounced V-shaped upper body can thus get a cup that is too large when traditionally determining the bra size. Some measurement methods therefore use the difference between the chest circumference and the chest circumference (maximum horizontal circumference measured with normal breathing and an upright posture, the tape measure over the shoulder blades, under the armpits and over the chest) to determine the cup size. In the British system, the chest circumference is also used as a direct measure of the underband size.

Common sizing systems

The official size systems of various countries are shown below. However, these methods of calculating the bra size usually do not lead to the best-fitting bras. Many manufacturers also have their own sizing systems, and models from the same manufacturer can be different despite the same size.

European sizing system

Underband size

Underbust	Chest band size	Underband size
cm	FR / BE / ES	EU	IT
58-62	75	60	0
63-67	80	65	1	I.
68-72	85	70	2	II
73-77	90	75	3	III
78-82	95	80	4th	IV, IIII
83-87	100	85	5	V
88-92	105	90	6th	VI
93-97	110	95	7th	VII
98-102	115	100	8th	VIII
103-107	120	105	9	IX, VIIII
108-112	125	110	10	X
113-117	130	115	11	XI
118-122	135	120	12	XII
123-127	140	125	13	XIII
128-132	145	130	14th	XIIII

Cup size

Difference [cm]	Cup
11	AA
13	A.
15th	B.
17th	C.
19th	D.
21st	E.
23	F.
25th	G
27	H
29	I.
31	J
33	K
35	L.
37	M.
39	N
41	O
43	P
45	Q
47	R.

The size of bras is specified within Europe in the standard EN 13402 (size designation of clothing). The underbust band size (g) corresponds to the underbust circumference rounded to 5 cm (u) . The cup size (c) results from the difference between the bust size ( b) and the underbust band size (g) ; the designations can in principle be extended alphabetically as required.

${\displaystyle g_{\text{EU}}=\left[u\right]_{5\,{\text{cm}}}=5\cdot \left\lfloor {\frac {u+2{,}5\,{\text{cm}}}{5\,{\text{cm}}}}\right\rfloor }$

${\displaystyle c_{\text{EU}}=\left[b-g_{\text{EU}}\right]_{2\,{\text{cm}}}=f\left(\left[{\frac {b-g_{\text{EU}}-11\,{\text{cm}}}{2\,{\text{cm}}}}\right]\right)}$

The European system has some advantages over various other systems:

• The measured underbust circumference in centimeters corresponds (rounded) directly to the number of the bra designation.
• The cup names are in strict alphabetical order.
• The cup sizes are a little more finely graduated (2 cm instead of 1 inch [2.54 cm]) than in the Anglo-American region.

The European or German dress sizes (k) are also based on the chest circumference by subtracting 6 from the rounded and halved measured value. Accordingly, a woman with size 38 should theoretically fit a size 60G – J, 65D – H, 70B – E or 75A – C bra, depending on her underbust; conversely, a woman with size 75B should fit well in size 38 clothing or 40 fit.

${\displaystyle k_{\text{DE}}=\left[b\right]_{4\,{\text{cm}}}=2\cdot \left\lfloor {\frac {b-10\,{\text{cm}}}{4\,{\text{cm}}}}\right\rfloor }$

Japan

The Japanese size is the same as the European size, except that the cup name comes first, i.e. H. B75 Japanese corresponds to 75B European.

France

The French sizing system, which is also common in Spain and Belgium, uses the same measurements as the European one, but differs in the designation. The figures for the French bra size do not correspond to the underbust circumference or the underbust band size, but to the chest circumference of a corresponding B cup. Therefore, 15 cm must be added to the European band size. For example, the European size 75B corresponds to the French size 90B.

${\displaystyle g_{\text{FR}}=g_{\text{EU}}+15=5\cdot \left\lfloor {\frac {u+17{,}5\,{\text{cm}}}{5\,{\text{cm}}}}\right\rfloor }$

${\displaystyle c_{\text{FR}}=c_{\text{EU}}}$

${\displaystyle k_{\text{FR}}=k_{\text{EU}}+2=2\cdot \left\lfloor {\frac {b-6\,{\text{cm}}}{4\,{\text{cm}}}}\right\rfloor }$

Italy

Italian cup size

Difference [cm]	Cup
12.5	AA
15.0	A.
17.5	B.
20.0	C.
22.5	D.
25.0	DD = E
27.5	F.
30.0	FF
32.5	G
35.0	GG

In the Italian size system, the underband sizes are denoted by ordinal numbers 1–12 in Arabic or Roman numerals. The cup sizes are divided into steps of 2.5 cm and come close to the American system, which works with 2.54 cm steps.

${\displaystyle g_{\text{IT}}={\frac {g_{\text{EU}}}{5}}-12=\left\lfloor {\frac {u-57{,}5\,{\text{cm}}}{5\,{\text{cm}}}}\right\rfloor }$

${\displaystyle c_{\text{IT}}=\left[b-u\right]_{2{,}5\,{\text{cm}}}=f\left({\frac {b-u-12{,}5\,{\text{cm}}}{2{,}5\,{\text{cm}}}}\right)}$

${\displaystyle k_{\text{IT}}=k_{\text{EU}}+4=2\cdot \left\lfloor {\frac {b+2\,{\text{cm}}}{4\,{\text{cm}}}}\right\rfloor }$

British sizing system

UK / US cup sizes

difference	Cup size
inch	UK	US
−1	AA
0	A.
1	B.
2	C.
3	D.
4th	DD	DD, E
5	E.	DDD, F
6th	F.	DDDD, G
7th	FF	H
8th	G	I.
9	GG	J
10	H	K
11	HH	L.
12	J	M.
13	YY	N
14th	K	O
15th	KK	P
16	L.	Q
17th	LL	R.
18th	M.	S.
19th	MM	T
20th	N	U

Comparison of cup sizes in the UK and European systems

The diagram shows the relative relationship between cup size and underbust in the British sizing system. Although the size of the cup always remains the same, its name changes as the size of the underbust increases.

The British system uses inches (2.54 cm). The underbust band size ( g ) is calculated from the underbust circumference ( u ). If the number is even, 4 inches are added; if the number is odd, 5 inches. The (even) number determined in this way indicates the underband size. The cup size ( c ) is determined as the difference between the chest size ( b ) and the underbust band size ( g ). One inch of difference equals an A cup and two inches equals a B cup.

${\displaystyle g_{\text{UK}}=\left[u\right]_{2\,{\text{in}}}=2\cdot \left\lceil {\frac {u+4\,{\text{in}}}{2\,{\text{in}}}}\right\rceil }$

${\displaystyle c_{\text{UK}}=\left[b-g\right]_{1\,{\text{in}}}=f\left({\frac {b}{1\,{\text{in}}}}-g_{\text{UK}}\right)}$

The cup sequence is not strictly alphabetical as in the European system, but contains an abundance of double letters, which, however, indicate different sizes. Due to the different determination of the difference, a European 75B, for example, can correspond to an English 34A-C or 36A and conversely a 34C to a 70D-E or 75B-E.

United States

The American sizing system dates back to the 1930s, making it the oldest in history. The underband size corresponds to the British system, but there are differences for cup sizes over D: They do not have their own letter designation, but are designated as DD (E), DDD = 3D (F), DDDD = 4D (G).

Australia and New Zealand

The oceanic system uses the English principles. Sizes 8 to 30 are assigned to underband sizes 30 to 52, also in steps of two. This difference of 22 each roughly corresponds to the UK clothing sizes.

${\displaystyle g_{\text{AU}}=k_{\text{UK}}=g_{\text{UK}}-22=2\cdot \left\lceil {\frac {u}{2\,{\text{in}}}}-9\right\rceil }$

additional

• Double letters are actually not assigned in the size system. For example, AA denotes a cup size that is smaller than cup size A, while all other double letters indicate the next larger cup size. The DD cup size, which is often associated with a very large breast, does not exist in the European sizing system. In the American sizing system, it is identical to cup size E. In the British sizing system, however, DD is an independent cup size that lies between sizes D and E.
• The British double letters are not intermediate sizes . Although the UK cup size DD is between the UK cup sizes D and E, there is a full step of one inch in circumference between all three cup sizes, not a half step. The British cup size E is therefore one step larger than the European cup size E, as there are no double letters (except AA) in the European system.
• For example, cross sizes refer to bra sizes 75D and 80C. They hold roughly the same breast volume, but differ in the length of the underbust band. If the cup size fits 80C, but the bra does not provide enough support from the underbust band, then 75D may be an alternative.

Medical aspects

In general, wearing a supportive brassiere is medically recommended, especially with large breasts and movements with constant, heavy and jerky loads, such as can occur when jogging or many ball sports. The purpose of the support is to avoid permanent stretching of the pectoral retinacula , which can lead to an irreversible lowering of the breast. A special sports bra can reduce the stress on the breast tissue to around 25%, while wearing a T-shirt bra the stress is still 62%. Men with severe gynecomastia can get pain relief from wearing a brassiere; the stress on the breast tissue can be greatly reduced.

With increasing age, the elasticity of the tight connective tissue decreases . Some studies consider it possible that this effect is intensified when wearing a bra due to the constant relief of connective tissue fibers and muscles. If the breasts are very large and not lifted by the bra, the skin in the breast folds can become inflamed. If too much weight is transferred to the shoulders as a result of a poorly fitted bra, this can lead to orthopedic problems that can extend to the spine.

Bra adjustment

The bra size is determined by the breast measurements; the underbust band size should be determined first and then the cup size.

Underband

Extension piece for the underbust band

The band should support most of your chest weight. Contrary to popular belief, this is not the job of the shoulder straps. The shoulder straps should only lift the chest a little and prevent the bra from sliding down on the body. In order to fulfill its load-bearing function, the underband must be relatively tight and must not slip even when moving (lifting the arms or pulling on the shoulder straps); it should only pull a few inches away from your body. An underband that is too wide usually slips up in the back. A suitable underbust band should run horizontally around the body and not sit higher in the back than on the front.

In most cases, the band size has to be one to two steps smaller than the measured band size, because most bras in the band are larger and more stretchy than the label size suggests. Since a cup that is too small with an underband that is too large can also make you feel constricted, it is worth trying on the bra with the cups on the back (or upside down). So the band size can be checked independently of the cup size.

A new bra should be closed on the outermost hook, sit stable and have sufficient support. Thus, as the bra gets older and stretches, it can later be closed at the middle or inner hook, increasing its useful life.

Cup

To check that the cup is the right size, it is first important to place your breast completely in the cup. Basically, the size of an unpadded bra with underwires is easier to determine. The brackets should lie flat on the breastbone between the breasts and run directly under the breast. On the sides, the brackets must not rest on the breast tissue, but should lie behind the breast tissue and flat on the ribs. The end of the temple should point towards the middle of the armpits.

A cup that is too small can often be recognized by the fact that the brackets stick out between the breasts instead of resting on the breastbone. Underwires that are too narrow and press into the sensitive breast tissue under the arms can be due to a cup size that is too small, but also to a bra model with underwires that are too narrow. The fabric of the cup should not cut into the breast tissue. Creases of fabric on the tip of the breast are often a sign of a cup that is too small, rests on the breast and is too small and narrow to completely encircle the breast. Wrinkles on the edge of the cup can indicate a cup that is too large, but also a bra cut that is intended for breasts with more volume in the upper chest area.

Movie

• Martina Treuter: Mr. Lindauer's brassiere. Documentation on the story. Germany, 2008, IMDb .

Web links

Commons : Brassiere  - Collection of Images

Wiktionary: BH  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Wiktionary: Bra  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

• Literature about bras in the catalog of the German National Library

Individual evidence

1. ↑ Dalya Alberge: Discovered in a castle vault, the scraps of lace that show lingerie was all the rage 500 years ago. In: dailymail.co.uk , July 16, 2012.
2. ↑ Sensation: 532 year old bra found. In: tirol.orf.at , July 18, 2012.
3. ↑ Brassiere from the Middle Ages - The special bra. In: Spiegel Online . July 19, 2012, accessed December 5, 2012 . 
4. ↑ Swiss Patent No. 6264, Class 24, February 6, 1893, 6 a.m., p. "Bra" ( pdf online at the DPMA)
5. ↑ * Due date: February 6, 1893 - Hugo Schindler receives Swiss patent for the brassiere , wdr.de, February 6, 2018
6. ↑ Patent of the Imperial Patent Office No. 110888 for a "woman's body as a breast carrier". ( pdf online ) at the DPMA
7. ↑ Patent GB189816955 (A) from July 15, 1899 ( online )
8. ↑ Deirde E. McGhee, Julie R. Steele: How do respiratory state and measurement method affect bra size calculation . In: Br J Sports Med.. . 40, 2006, pp. 970-974. doi : 10.1136 / bjsm.2005.025171 .
9. ^ EA Pechter: A new method for determining bra size and predicting post augmentation breast size . (pdf) In: Plast Reconstr Surg . 102, 1998, pp. 1259-65. Accessed October 28, 2018
10. ↑ DIN EN 13402. Size designation of clothing (2001).
11. ↑ J. Scurr: Bouncing breasts; a credible area of ​​scientific research Archived from the original on March 20, 2013. (pdf) In: The Sports and Excercise Scientist . 13, 2007.
12. ↑ Medicine transparent : The bra: bad for the breast? , from July 17, 2017, loaded on March 16, 2018
13. ↑ K. Ashizawa, A. Sugane, T. Gunji: Breast form changes resulting from a certain brassière . In: J Hum Ergol (Tokyo) . 19 (1), 1990, pp. 53-62. PMID 2092072 .
14. ↑ L. Pierrot: Evolution du sein après l'arrêt du port du soutien gorge, étude préliminaire longitudinale sur 33 sportives volontaires, Thèse présentée le 19 December 2003 devant the Faculté de Médecine et de Pharmacie de Besançon.
15. ↑ CL Kerrigan, ED Collins, D. Striplin, H. M Kim, E. Wilkins, B. Cunningham, J. Lowery: The health burden of breast hypertrophy . In: Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery . 108 (5), 2001, pp. 1591-1599. PMID 11711933 .
16. ^ EL Ryan: Pectoral girdle myalgia in women: a 5-year study in a clinical setting . In: Clin J Pain . 16 (4), 2000, pp. 298-303. PMID 11153784 .
17. ↑ Instructions at a glance: determine the correct bra size and cup size. In: rbb-online.de (Rundfunk Berlin-Brandenburg). April 10, 2018. Retrieved May 28, 2018 .