Lingerie
As lingerie or lingerie (loan word from French for "lower"), z. Sometimes also lingerie , garments are called that can serve to sexually arouse the sexual partner or to satisfy one's own vanity . This is in particular clothing from the area of underwear , which is often specially made from materials that are perceived as erotic and are usually not used in the area of functional underwear, for example velvet , lace or satin . This effect is also underlined with special cuts. Lingerie and lingerie are available for both women and men, although the range for women is significantly more diverse and extensive. Often more elegant and high-quality processed laundry items are referred to as lingerie, while more provocative laundry, especially in certain colors such as black or red, is more likely to be referred to as lingerie.
history
The history of lingerie is closely intertwined with the history of underwear . Undergarments have alternated between functionality and aesthetics since ancient times. Technical achievements always went hand in hand with the creation of new fashionable silhouettes.
The bodice and petticoat, for example, changed in line with historical fashion trends: from a waist-hugging silhouette during the Middle Ages to the slender silhouette of the 14th and 15th centuries. With the simultaneous appearance of the corset in the 15th century, the aesthetic shaping of the body progressed. The constructed silhouettes of historical fashion techniques also served to attractively develop gender. In their historical change, they were always subject to a process of politicization. With the emerging industrial revolution at the end of the 18th century, a textile industry prevailed, which no longer designed fashion according to class clothing hierarchy, but instead enforced an economy of clothing and underwear regimes. The tight-fitting corsage became an icon of the moral preservation of a domestic division of labor in the bourgeois milieu. With the intensification of sexual sensuality, the functionality of underwear, as it was still widespread in the working class, gave way to the fetish object , which designs gender formation as a medium of physical desire. Equally, the fight against the corset was always accompanied by the political struggle to visualize female bodies, as was the case with the suffragettes , whose central concern at the beginning of the women's rights movement included not only women's suffrage but also the rejection of the corset and its moral implications.
Lingerie and lingerie in their current design are often based on models from the late 19th century, which was influenced by French, when increasingly attractive lingerie was produced. This also explains the frequent origin of individual terms for such items of laundry, which were then exclusively designed for women, from the French language. Little by little, lingerie manufacturers developed new models from these shapes, but it wasn't until the 1960s that today's idea of sexually appealing underwear began to spread. In the 21st century, the lingerie industry expanded its product range to include so-called lingerie lingerie , underwear that can also be worn over it. Underwear was no longer modestly hidden, but was allowed to be visible at least in part, for example bra straps or strings, under the outer clothing.
function
The function of lingerie goes beyond the practical value of the usual underwear and ranges from lingerie that is comfortable to wear in everyday life to items of clothing that can assume the status of a sex toy or a sexual fetish . In some cases, lingerie is cut so that it can be worn during sexual intercourse without being a hindrance. Exceptions to this are often created by current fashion trends that use or emphasize various lingerie as accessories , for example bodies , corsages , nylon stockings or so-called G-strings , which are sometimes worn as outerwear and clearly visible. The classification of garments as lingerie or lingerie is very subjective, depending on the individual morality and attitude to fashion. Examples of this are bathing strings and transparent lace underwear for children, as well as stockings and corsetry, where only functional areas are reinforced so that they are opaque. As in the past in fact panty girdles made of airy tulle , which only support belt and step feed were opaque.
To be seen as lingerie or partly in public: For example with a black dress under the wrap jacket made of red lace and over the unreinforced black nylon tights with a lace waistband.
Functional underwear that has been converted into lingerie using colors.
same color bra and panties
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Lingerie for women
Bras and briefs
Lingerie and lingerie usually consist of at least two matching pieces, usually a bra and panties , which in this combination are referred to as a bra set. Functional bras usually consist of a textile mixture of cotton , polyamide and elastic fibers such as elastane . This combination is also used for erotic underwear, but fabrics are also used that are not designed for everyday wear due to their wearing properties. This includes bras and briefs made of shiny or high-gloss materials such as lacquer or latex , which have no breathable properties, and transparent materials, for example lace or mesh.
Sets of this type are also available made of very hard materials such as stainless steel , chains or strands of pearls, as well as lingerie made of edible materials such as love pearls or so-called candy lingerie that can only be worn once .
The shapes of the sets are varied, ranging from Bustiers and torselets which cover a large part of the torso, to bras and panties ouvert that can most typically capped primary or secondary sex characteristics (vulva or nipples) uncovered. Typical slip forms are, for example, thongs , G-strings, strings C and Micro-strings , Thong and panties, or French knickers . The bodysuits , which are also offered as string bodies, represent an intermediate form.
Stockings and tights
Some common accessories female lingerie both belong tights as well as stockings , which are mostly made of nylon made, as well as fishnet stockings , so-called fishnets are offered. Stockings and tights are often patterned, have a seam like the classic Cuban heels or have a wide lace band. In addition to the original method of fastening the garter belt , which is mostly only used for decorative purposes today, suspenders and dance belts are primarily used for stockings . Another type of stocking dispenses with holder systems and can be worn without a holder thanks to a plastic coating on the upper end.
Of nylon or netting existing catsuits have a similar visual effect such as stockings, but cover next to the legs often the whole body. A similar shape is the zentai , which is usually made of lycra and also covers the head.
Forming clothing
Partial come lingerie and lingerie at a formative function, these are primarily strong shaping corsets , but also the less-shaping corsets and camisoles. In most cases, suspenders can also be attached to these items of clothing to fasten stockings. The materials of corsets can also be very heavy, for example brocade fabric or leather , while the fabrics of the other shapes are more like those of the bras. The cuts partly correspond to traditional historical shapes and are divided into waist, underbust and overbust shapes. Typical of these items of clothing is the lacing, which often has no function in less high-quality laundry. In addition to a waist-shaping effect, some of these items of clothing have a breast-lifting effect, similar to a bra .
Nightwear and negligees
Negligés and revealing nightgowns are also part of the lingerie category; these are often made of silk or other flowing fabrics with lace trim. Another shape is the babydoll from the 1950s , which is also often trimmed with lace and ruffles.
accessories
In addition to the actual lingerie, certain accessories are used to reinforce the erotic effect of the lingerie, for example feather boas , lace and mesh gloves , as well as sleeves or gauntlets . Although shoes in the strict sense of the word are not underwear, in particular overknees with high heels or very high-cut boots, the so-called thigh-highs , are known and sold as bed boots. Stretch varnish or latex is often used as the material because of the elasticity required to wear.
Lingerie for men
Underpants or underwear made of transparent or net-like materials are usually understood as sexy underwear or lingerie for men, the materials largely correspond to functional underwear. Common shapes are tangas, strings, thongs , hip pants or jockstraps . In addition, there are often matching undershirts, for example mesh undershirts, but also bodies or string bodies.
literature
- Muriel Barbier, Shazia Boucher: The Lingerie. Parkstone, Bournemouth 2004, ISBN 1-85995-814-1 .
- Curt Braun, Doris Binger, Annette Gilles: From corsetry to lingerie - a culture and product history of corsetry in Germany. Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 2005, ISBN 3-87150-880-2 .
- Caroline Cox: Lingerie. DuMont, Cologne 2000, ISBN 3-7701-8587-0 .
- Farid Chenoune: Lingerie: a century of lingerie cult. Knesebeck, Munich 2005, ISBN 3-89660-327-2 .
- Gilles Néret: Lingerie: lingerie as erotic weapon. German English French. Taschen, Cologne u. a. 2001, ISBN 3-8228-1286-2 .
- Thomas Rusche: Small Soer Breviary of Clothing Culture: The Counselor for the Lord. Lit Verlag, Berlin / Hamburg / Münster 1991, ISBN 3-89473-101-X , pp. 204-217.
- Anne Zazzo: Lingerie: an illustrated story from the Middle Ages to the present day. Concept and photogr. Marc Walter. Collection Rolf Heyne, Munich 2009, ISBN 978-3-89910-433-2 .
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Friedrich Kluge, Elmar Seebold: Etymological Dictionary of the German Language , Verlag Walter de Gruyter , Berlin 2002, ISBN 3-11-017473-1 , p. 192.
- ↑ McGaw, Judith A .: Why Feminine Technologies Matter . In: Nina E. Lerman (Ed.): Gender and Technology: A Reader. Johns Hopkins University Press, Baltimore; London 2003, ISBN 978-0-8018-7259-4 , pp. 13 - 36 .
- ↑ a b Barbier, Muriel; Boucher, Shazia: The History of Lingerie . tape 2 . Parkstone International, New York 2016, ISBN 978-1-84484-801-0 , pp. 21 .
- ↑ Gabriele Mentges: Mode: Modeling and medialization of the gender body in clothing . In: Handbook women and gender studies: theory, methods, empiricism . VS Verlag für Sozialwissenschaften, Wiesbaden 2008, ISBN 978-3-531-91972-0 , p. 772-778 , doi : 10.1007 / 978-3-531-91972-0_94 .
- ↑ Neckermann catalog : autumn / winter 1971/1972 , Germany p. 188. (size from 92 cm to 164 cm)
- ^ Neckermann catalog: Autumn / Winter 1971/1972 , Germany p. 144.